Jump to content

Onoff

Members
  • Posts

    21127
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    206

Everything posted by Onoff

  1. Gives you some idea of installing and then maintaining:
  2. Hello and welcome. I dip in occasionally to an American solar forum. It's a bit clunky to navigate I find but they're a friendly bunch. A lot make their own heat storage tanks. Size I suspect often makes up for inefficiency but then they have the space. Worth a look: http://simplysolar.supporttopics.com/?forum=268124
  3. Onoff

    Light not working

    @Wes, any of these your handiwork?
  4. Onoff

    Light not working

    All get connected together and also to any earth terminal on the light fitting. I sleeve mine individually rather than twist them all together like that.
  5. It was here I got mine: https://www.wayfair.co.uk/diy-plumbing/hd0/30cm-round-fixed-shower-head-l7183-k~hdz1251.html?
  6. Didn't you get the same HR rainfall head I did but from somewhere else?
  7. REI3211 is the square ended plate version...REI3411 the round ended plate.
  8. That's the rounded end one.....like I have. My link for the square ended one.
  9. Cheapest so far. Plus £6.50 postage but with 5% off using AUG5 code. https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/hudson-reed-reign-triple-concealed-thermostatic-shower-valve-square-plate-rei3211? Note for whoever is interested they do both a squared off and radiussed plate.
  10. http://www.britishbathroomcompany.co.uk Specifically this, price appears to have increased considerably: http://www.britishbathroomcompany.co.uk/reign-triple-shower-valve-1583?
  11. No, Nick just fits them. Hudson Reed. Come very well packaged, clear instructions and 10 or is it 20? year g'tee. British made I think too. @ProDave has one, I do too.
  12. I've M6, 8, 10, 12 & 16 to hand just no M5. M5 was decided upon as it was M5 suckers that I found cheapest. I did think it'll be no good for heavier tiles though. EDIT: & M24!
  13. +1. I couldn't be ar $ed going into that detail tbh. You can lead a horse to water etc...
  14. The pity is there were only four basic questions in there!
  15. And with the time saved I could spend quality time with SWMBO! You know talk about how she's feeling, is anything wrong, what she bought shopping, our collective elderly parents etc. Thanks for reminding me I need to get some M5 studding!
  16. As is Nick's, Peter's etc with me!
  17. You might not be concerned but the person who decides to drill to fit a row of cup hooks or key rack might well be. Aside from the selfishness of this think about when YOU have to replace that extension lead through the wall. There's a good chance it won't pull through that easy and I'll guarantee you won't be able to get the new one through unless you're lucky with a draw wire. No doubt it simply exits the wall where it's free to chaff against the edges of the drilled hole! It would be far better to have an IP rated socket outside on the wall. Less fugly in the kitchen and more convenient outside. It would free up that extension lead too as and when required. Of course once you take the power outside you're into the realms of Part P. I know the Welsh regs are different to England but imagine it requires a competent person that's a member of an approved scheme. One way it could be done is to knock out one of the 20mm knockouts in the back of that double socket back box. Drill a hole through at a slight downward angle. Fit a length of 20mm pvc conduit down through the drilled hole protruding 10mm through the back box. Fit an IP6* rated exterior socket outside. Doing this depends on the existing circuit that socket is on being up to the task and suitably protected but that in essence is it. A short length of 2.5mm2 T&E would connect the outside socket to the existing socket inside. You would have 3 Lives in one terminal, 3 Neutrals and 3 Earths in the others.
  18. Simply put that cable is so wrong I'm almost lost for words. That you choose to ignore the problem...
  19. PB3: Measure horizintally from pb2 at a few different points up the height of the board, say every foot. Transfer those measurements to pb3 from the left hand tapered edge of pb3. "Join the dots", cut and fit.
  20. Google "cable safe zones" the same image will come up, blue/green bands on yellow walls.
  21. Because some poor idiot in the future might drill through where they think it's safe and DIE.
  22. F***K me that's DANGEROUS! If you bury that in the Celotex and board over only YOU will know it's there! Cabling should run in safe zones not diagonal just below the surface like that!
  23. I thought it'd make it a bit easier for a newbie at this. Wishing I'd shut up!
×
×
  • Create New...