Onoff

Trouble is the people on here are NOT going to sit idly by and NOT comment if they see something so in your face wrong! Anyway, the solution goes something like this: As you can see all the pvc sheathed cable is touching is the pvc pipe - no rough edges or chemical reactions! As to what IP rated socket to fit then it's a tad dependant on what circuit protection you have on that ring main circuit which I assume that existing 2G socket is on? If it's RCD protected then something like this, there is a slightly cheaper LAP branded one: https://www.screwfix.com/p/bg-13a-1g-switch-socket/35096#product_additional_details_container A single socket linked but you could fit a double one if you wanted. If not then you really need RCD protection so it'll be something like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/bg-13a-2g-rcd-switched-socket/91095 Your electrician will I'm sure be able to advise you! If you take electricity outside you're into the realms of Part P.

Any waste pipe penetrations, for instance the sink, can be a route in for mice, wasps etc as well as a draughts of course. If the hole thru the wall is a bit ragged and oversize then pack round the pipe with cheap stainless steel kitchen scourer and expanding foam over. Then cut flush. If the mice do chew through the skin of foam the metal will stop them. If a pi$$y wee gap round the pipe then just foam it - from both sides ideally (but not too much), cut flush and paint. https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-stainless-steel-scourers-6pk/p/0178483

No reason at all why you can't use the metal ones if you're happy making a compression joint that won't leak or soldering. Peter suggested Hep2O as it's super quick and the best brand of push fit in the eyes of many on here (me included). Plus you don't need any really special tools. Think they reckon 50 years life expectancy. I've stuff been in here since 98 with not a sign of a leak anywhere. What ones did you get btw?

An empty promise as usual no doubt!

YOU are risking people just walking away from this thread mate. This advice thing is a bit of a two way thing. If you ask for advice then choose to ignore what half a dozen people agree is f***ing dangerous they, including me will just walk away. And don't say "I can't". you've proved YOU CAN if you're prepared to listen.

I'm reading various: expanding foam - the one for wall boarding, contact adhesive , carpet fitters glue, no more nails type stuff..... ???

SWMBO thinks I'm a clever boy ref the pallet buster!

Hep2O... Shown here being fitted/ removed onto plastic pipe but it fits just as well on clean 15mm copper pipe. Why I really posted the video was to show how easy it is to remove with the little plastic tool. You can get these or even smaller jobbies at S'fix: https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-push-fit-hepkey-plus-set/5222j These Hep2O shut of valves are quick and easy to fit: https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-hx37-15ws-shut-off-valve-hot-cold-15mm/8473f You WILL lose some water when you cut the pipes. Resign yourself to that fact. Old bath towel against the wall / on the floor and an empty milk carton to slip over the end of the pipe whilst you catch your breath! Washing up bowl on standby to empty into if there's that much! The cold - presuming mains - you'll need to turn the mains off. The hot - hopefully a valve back up the line somewhere? You can isolate the cold feed to the bottom of the hot water cylinder and or put bungs in the cws feed to the cylinder etc. If you're burying all the existing pipes in the new Celotex make damn sure you haven't got any leaks in it! It will be a bitch to sort later.

Still there... Tbh I'm bottling starting it. Worried about everything; it being level, the joints looking uniform, cutting for the mixer etc. A biggie is cutting these big mosaics without the cut edge looking crap. I'm going to get SWMBO to do the cuts...no comeback then!

Do you get one type of pallet generally? If so post a fag packet sketch or marker pen on the actual pallet the relevant sizes and I'll figure a breaker. Just thinking out loud here but to save weight the "roller bar" could be tube instead of solid bar and the handle welded direct to this instead of being bolted to a welded boss...

As I said...it works:

You'll look back and think "I did that!" and have the confidence to think "I could do that!" https://www.barnsley.ac.uk/course/introduction-plastering-part-time/

I could spend 10 weeks just thinking about something!

Nothing that's not already been done, all over the net tbh! Anyway IT WORKS! Actually pretty effortless tbh. I might replace the steel tube handle with a bit of thick wall ali tube I scored (30 years ago) as I imagine it could get a lump to wield after a while. I need to trim the M12 bolts that the angles pivot on, this so it can slip over "two inch" main members on pallets. At the mo the distance between angles is nom 54mm. If I reversed the angles so they pointed outward it'd go over a 90mm main member. Happy enough anyway, cost nowt but some leccy, discs and rods.

A coat of etch primer: Then wait to dry and mull over what top coat I've got kicking around...

If you were closer you could borrow one of my cable chasers. (I can almost do it dust free with the bfo shop vac).

Might be worth putting some stops on the back of the angles so as the thing slides in and under the plank it stops against the edge of the plank. That'd g'tee it sits fully under. ?

It'd work a treat I reckon. I think you need the lifting angles pretty much the same width as the board you are lifting to put even pressure across the board and the pivot point dead central. My angles are just <4" long as that's what the bit of scrap angle ended up cut in two. As I say this was made ad hoc with just a feel for what works. Guessing your boards are nailed down with cut nails? Do you have the "scrap" to make one? I could cobble together a "kit" of parts pre cut and give to you with the welder if you wanted or even knock one up (if you're not in a hurry ).

+1. My cess pool is deep. Like Guy N Smith's The Sucking Pit....

Mine's for taking the pallet apart to be able to reuse the timber not breaking it up for firewood. The basics are that it fits like this in these (staged) pics: Then levers back; the angle rotates about the bolt and lifts the plank up without splitting it: Tried it earlier with just one leg complete and it seems to work a treat.

Behave! The modded version is coming along nicely!

Just a thought..... If a drone happens to fly over your house are you within your rights to shoot it down? Don't get me wrong I'd do so without a second thought. Just wondering as to the legalities.

Worth a read: https://3dinsider.com/dji-alternatives/

Try again continuing the time honoured tradition of rule of thumb & guesswork: