Onoff

And with the time saved I could spend quality time with SWMBO! You know talk about how she's feeling, is anything wrong, what she bought shopping, our collective elderly parents etc. Thanks for reminding me I need to get some M5 studding!

As is Nick's, Peter's etc with me!

You might not be concerned but the person who decides to drill to fit a row of cup hooks or key rack might well be. Aside from the selfishness of this think about when YOU have to replace that extension lead through the wall. There's a good chance it won't pull through that easy and I'll guarantee you won't be able to get the new one through unless you're lucky with a draw wire. No doubt it simply exits the wall where it's free to chaff against the edges of the drilled hole! It would be far better to have an IP rated socket outside on the wall. Less fugly in the kitchen and more convenient outside. It would free up that extension lead too as and when required. Of course once you take the power outside you're into the realms of Part P. I know the Welsh regs are different to England but imagine it requires a competent person that's a member of an approved scheme. One way it could be done is to knock out one of the 20mm knockouts in the back of that double socket back box. Drill a hole through at a slight downward angle. Fit a length of 20mm pvc conduit down through the drilled hole protruding 10mm through the back box. Fit an IP6* rated exterior socket outside. Doing this depends on the existing circuit that socket is on being up to the task and suitably protected but that in essence is it. A short length of 2.5mm2 T&E would connect the outside socket to the existing socket inside. You would have 3 Lives in one terminal, 3 Neutrals and 3 Earths in the others.

Simply put that cable is so wrong I'm almost lost for words. That you choose to ignore the problem...

PB3: Measure horizintally from pb2 at a few different points up the height of the board, say every foot. Transfer those measurements to pb3 from the left hand tapered edge of pb3. "Join the dots", cut and fit.

Google "cable safe zones" the same image will come up, blue/green bands on yellow walls.

Because some poor idiot in the future might drill through where they think it's safe and DIE.

F***K me that's DANGEROUS! If you bury that in the Celotex and board over only YOU will know it's there! Cabling should run in safe zones not diagonal just below the surface like that!

I thought it'd make it a bit easier for a newbie at this. Wishing I'd shut up!

Yep.

Exactly that. Actually better with bits of wood. Can't think of another explanation.

Think about it. You're on your own and you've a relatively big bit of pb to remove. You've cut the vertical. The pb section stays in place. You cut the bottom - the pb stays in place. So you now, maybe on steps start cutting the top. There comes a point when the piece will "go" as all three sides are cut. There's a chance the whole piece will fall out and crash to the floor. Put clamps across the ends of the horizontal cut lines and it helps keep the piece in position so you can get down the ladder and get a better grip on the removed section in order to remove it.

Looking good btw! ?

No, see the fag packet sketch above. Little bits of timber under the clamp faces.

Stanley knife, new blade. Take your time and you'll eventually cut through the paper the other side. Do the bottom first. Then do the top. As your doing the top you'll realise why I said to clamp the bottom cut!

Couple of short off cuts of timber, one either side of the cut, clamped on...

You mean YOU ditched the ceiling rose?

I'm a bit lost but guessing a WORKING rose has been ditched and a new light put up? If you look at the look in wiring pdfs then in the rose there are in effect separate 2 and 3 way connectors. There MIGHT be space to replicate this using 2 and 3 way Wago blocks where the light fitting meets the ceiling. Something like this, not on a light circuit but you get the drift: You need to identify the cables, mark the switched lives probably blue with a brown sleeve and rewire. Edit: Good point from Dave, my diagrams DO NOT show the loop at switch method.

I want (don't need to) to fill in some 22mm holes drilled in a glass reinforced polyester box. I've the "waste" from other holes elsewhere in the same box. The faces will be filled and sanded flush. I'll make up a bolt of some sort to hold the infill piece. There's about a 3mm gap all round. 2-part epoxy? PVC solvent weld cement? Cheers

Look at those pdfs I posted they show loop and also junction box wiring.

I did think of adapting a spirit level but it won't achieve the same accuracy as the laser. Plan is only the very edge of the angle will support the bottom of the tile.

I was thinking pop rivets, maybe two lines and quite well spaced out, in the face of the angle where it sits against the wall. This to provide some clearance and hopefully allow only minimal contact against the wall. But is that enough? With a 6mm bed & 8mm tile then that angle wants to be nom 10mm off the wall. So now I'm veering towards rivnuts in the angle and some wind in/out screws to set the distance off the wall. Maybe pan head machine screws? Other "worry" is how much the floor suckers will compress under the weight... Watch this space!

These are handy: https://www.screwfix.com/p/spring-clamp-set-6pcs/3036V?

The beauty of the pictured Wago is it also has a little test probe hole. Handy little set: https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-basic-installer-box-75pcs/48808? Screwfix don't sell them individually. TLC do. Where are you? Maybe one of us is local and can drop one in. Just a regular connector block if desperate.

In line clip connector? You don't mean one of these, a Wago? They are foolproof. But when you think they're "down" the orange lever goes a little more.