Onoff

Yep.

Exactly that. Actually better with bits of wood. Can't think of another explanation.

Think about it. You're on your own and you've a relatively big bit of pb to remove. You've cut the vertical. The pb section stays in place. You cut the bottom - the pb stays in place. So you now, maybe on steps start cutting the top. There comes a point when the piece will "go" as all three sides are cut. There's a chance the whole piece will fall out and crash to the floor. Put clamps across the ends of the horizontal cut lines and it helps keep the piece in position so you can get down the ladder and get a better grip on the removed section in order to remove it.

Looking good btw! ?

No, see the fag packet sketch above. Little bits of timber under the clamp faces.

Stanley knife, new blade. Take your time and you'll eventually cut through the paper the other side. Do the bottom first. Then do the top. As your doing the top you'll realise why I said to clamp the bottom cut!

Couple of short off cuts of timber, one either side of the cut, clamped on...

You mean YOU ditched the ceiling rose?

I'm a bit lost but guessing a WORKING rose has been ditched and a new light put up? If you look at the look in wiring pdfs then in the rose there are in effect separate 2 and 3 way connectors. There MIGHT be space to replicate this using 2 and 3 way Wago blocks where the light fitting meets the ceiling. Something like this, not on a light circuit but you get the drift: You need to identify the cables, mark the switched lives probably blue with a brown sleeve and rewire. Edit: Good point from Dave, my diagrams DO NOT show the loop at switch method.

I want (don't need to) to fill in some 22mm holes drilled in a glass reinforced polyester box. I've the "waste" from other holes elsewhere in the same box. The faces will be filled and sanded flush. I'll make up a bolt of some sort to hold the infill piece. There's about a 3mm gap all round. 2-part epoxy? PVC solvent weld cement? Cheers

Look at those pdfs I posted they show loop and also junction box wiring.

I did think of adapting a spirit level but it won't achieve the same accuracy as the laser. Plan is only the very edge of the angle will support the bottom of the tile.

I was thinking pop rivets, maybe two lines and quite well spaced out, in the face of the angle where it sits against the wall. This to provide some clearance and hopefully allow only minimal contact against the wall. But is that enough? With a 6mm bed & 8mm tile then that angle wants to be nom 10mm off the wall. So now I'm veering towards rivnuts in the angle and some wind in/out screws to set the distance off the wall. Maybe pan head machine screws? Other "worry" is how much the floor suckers will compress under the weight... Watch this space!

These are handy: https://www.screwfix.com/p/spring-clamp-set-6pcs/3036V?

The beauty of the pictured Wago is it also has a little test probe hole. Handy little set: https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-basic-installer-box-75pcs/48808? Screwfix don't sell them individually. TLC do. Where are you? Maybe one of us is local and can drop one in. Just a regular connector block if desperate.

In line clip connector? You don't mean one of these, a Wago? They are foolproof. But when you think they're "down" the orange lever goes a little more.

Ruv ru!

I'd start with what YOU have touched or might have pulled. Worst case is probably a junction box under a laminate floor! Look for something loose on THAT circuit i.e the lights.

Just an aid if you're on your own so it doesn't all wobble or suddenly break when there's only a piddly bit left to cut.

This is where we're heading:

I ain't moving to get paper!

I'll line 'em up, you knock 'em down!

Just screw the board on. Do the vertical cut first but allow an inch or two over. Cut the bottom, again an inch over again. Stick a clamp at the start of the cut. Cut the top again put a clamp at the start of the cut. Trim up neatly once the big awkward lump is out.

Sod it! Down the rabbit hole we go. 12 of these ordered: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201764318033

So with this Tiletracker idea: 1) What stops the back of the metal box sticking to the wall due to the adhesive or in my case the tanking? 2) Surely the lip will get stuck under the tile and be a pig to remove?