Onoff

It's all about being sensitive to their needs and listening...

Yep, as has @JSHarris. Mine have been trialled and put back in the box (they work a treat). Jeremy's were to replace some other make and are all up and running as far as I know...

You've lost me...you need 2 receivers or a dual receiver to switch two separate loads...

Feel it.

Would have been just after The Falklands yes! :)

Reminds me of a pub I'd drink in as a youngster. Close boarded outside wall with a shrinkage gap between every board. Massive overhang on the dimly lit bar. If you were lucky you'd get "nuzzled" by the giant Alsatian hiding in the shadows as you ordered a round. Broke my heart when they did the place and knocked the two bars into one.

At it's simplest the QU WP2 is a 2-gang IP67 switch so one gang for the LED strip and the other for the vanity lights maybe? Same 1-gang picture for the 2-gang for some reason! https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=quinetic+ip67&Submit=Search (I reckon you could plastic prime and dust with a paint to suit the decor. Wish though they did an IP67 dimmer switch range!) The QU R323 is a 2-channel 6A receiver - cheaper than two separate receivers. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUR323.html

Liking the idea of an LED lit trim either side of the mitre. Need to be able to replace the strip and make watertight against the tiles either side. Any ideas?

I see da light! Mesh & parge coat maybe?

Pics don't do them justice really: Look a bit "starry" here but they're really not. I just like Aurora stuff anyway so am probably biased.

Moot point. The assumption is it get finished in that time...

LED strips I might have been impressed...

Whatever...mojo lost again.

Based on a 60 year life span isn't it?

You could design your own fancy vent cover and give a .dxf to a laser or water jet cutting place.

In theory you could slit Celotex to get the curve and fill with low expansion foam. THEN cover with bendy pb. Sort of thing I'd do just to see if I could...

Mine: Householder applicationsFirst letter - £96Second letter - £96Meeting plus written advice - £120

Erm...the mitre IS exactly one tile wide.

Like this. A bit misleading as there'll not be rips in the photo up the lhs mosaic. The mosaics will start after two tiles from the mitre:

Ain't gonna happen. Will look fugly as. Aka I'll learn by my mistakes!

Very rough plan is: - Tile saw set up and test - Rubi cutter set up - Correx the floor - Prime 4 tiles high - Spread right to left window and wc walls - Butter tiles vertically - Push tile on - Spacers - Do 4 rows, drilling for shower outlet and cutting around flush plate and 3-way valve - Stop - BEER

I didn't even know you could do this do thanks. I assume there's a charge? (I want to convert out hip ends to gables but the previous owner already had their 50% increase or whatever it is 30 years ago. I started to read up on permitted development and it talks about "not if it increases the volume by X").

The thing with the (optional) gauge coming out of it. You can turn off at the stop cock, unscrew and clean the gauze / mesh filter thing.

Crud in the pressure reducing valve? Does fiddling with that make any difference? Have you got a pressure gauge on it to see? Think that's our issue here. Job for the next week or so to sort that. Right behind the downstairs cloak wc.....kids with bad aim etc!

Yes, E5 8W in the ceiling and a 4.5W in the cupboard on a door switch. I wanted cool white and expected SWMBO to kick off and want warm white but she loves them as do I. Easy to fit and loop in/out spring loaded terminals. The eldest lad reckons they're a bit bright for him when he's lying in the bath. When I fit the Quinetic dimmer he can dim them down! Got mine here: https://www.ledbulbs.co.uk/enlite-e8-8w-fixed-dimmable-fire-rated-led-downlight-cool-white