Onoff

If the worktop is really concave to that extent could it be a manufacturing defect? A carefully worded email with accompanying picture to the supplier, citing the fact one out of two is OK, would I have thought seen a replacement delivered to your door FOC.

That pic where the broom is leaning, you have a bit of capping coming down the wall with two bits of cable in. Is there any socket etc going this side of the wall? Basically I'm suggesting that cabling might be "outside the zones". Nothing to stop you as I can see it drilling there and hitting the hidden cabling. To add you would usually look up/down, left and right from a socket or switch and know not to drill there in the "band" drawn up/down/left or right of the socket etc.

Evening, me again! It seems that if the HW is on and the CH off the rads still get warm. Where should I start looking? System was basically this, I sketched up a bit neater the original drawing of the system: BUT...I added 4 rads upstairs then two 2-port valves after the 3 port to zone upstairs and downstairs: First thought is the 3-port is letting by but then so what to some degree as it the hot shouldn't get any further if the 2-port is closed. Looking in the above pic at the 2-port marked CH-Down, that feeds the 3/4" nominal bore single pipe CH downstairs. It goes from the bottom of this valve to the first rad in the run in 22mm copper via the red handled ball valve. Should I just change all 3 valves and be done with it? Would the gate valve to balance things have any effect? Cheers Edit: Return to boiler appears as hot as the flow from the pump of that helps. Return is the blue taped 28mm running left to right from the bottom of the cylinder: And viewed from the other side where the upstairs and downstairs CH returns join that pipe: Trying to measure pipe temps with a cheap laser thermometer and black insulation tape stuck on the copper pipes but readings all over the place!

It'll be Rat City under that decking by now!

12'x9.5' outside dimns, the one in my pics above. So approx 11'x8.5' inside. He's infilled the pallet walls inside with more pallet wood. Only shot I've got; his bench top, window sill with the bark still on and pallet clad internal wall. Did mull filling the walls with insulation...but didn't. Outside of the pallets is wrapped in breathable felt stapled on. Then vertical tile battens. Then the cladding is screwed on (piss poorly mind ) He spent about £200 but on top was stuff he scrounged from me & his FiL. Git used most of my big 3mm packs!

Tiling going nowhere at the mo. 3 (4?) sick parents / in laws.

I might yet...

No not mine. I basically guided a non diy'er. Helped him with the base then have gradually stepped away. Got him to the point now where he is now happily using a bevel gauge even! Had to bite my tongue a few times if I've thought something looks a bit rough.

Proper solid is a pallet shed, this is clad in scrap from the bandsaw log mill:

Sparks mate just fitted one of these Quinetic like switches to his own place: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thinkbee-Wireless-Required-Self-powered-Controlled/dp/B075SBRH7F/ref=mp_s_a_1_2 He / his swmbo preferred the brushed effect to the Quinetic ones. Says it works well.

Welcome back! I wonder how many eBuild strays are still out there in the wilderness!

Random link but it's basically a trim/bead that gets attached to the wall before rendering. Sometimes plastic, sometimes steel though you want st/st ideally not galvanised. The render goes on then tapers out at the bead like the base of a bell. The profile is slightly tapered down on the underside. This is just above the dpc. As well as shedding water and preventing it getting under the render it strengthens the edge of the render as a whole helping protect against knocks and scrapes. I feel your pain! The very original bit of my place is rendered straight across the dpc. Later bits, like the garage have had a bit of 2"x1" nailed on at dpc level to render down to and form a taper. Its a classic short cut / bodge. Looks pretty if you can get the batten off without pulling the formed bell off but weak as Hell in the long run! Might just work if a super strong mix laden with adhesive. The damp wall in the bathroom was due to a bridged dpc. For that matter the ffl inside was slightly above the inner leaf dpc! A "bit" of digging a couple of years back sorted that!

Not for a while...

Zinc naturally oxidises over time and goes dull. Try some Zinc Perfect Light spray from Wurth. https://eshop.wurth.co.uk/Perfect-zinc-spray-ZNSPR-LIGHT-ALUZINC-PLUS-400ML/0893114114.sku/en/GB/GBP/

Tiling and everthing else taking a back seat at the mo due to elderly parent issues! I was bricking it using the bagged Laticrete stuff as it was a first for me but in reality it's lovely imo.

Are you a youngster still full of hope and believing in the system? It's all done to the lowest spec under the guise of "value engineering"! I dare you to bring up the energy costs of convening and attending the eco cost saving meetings!

Is that because the maintenance providers charge a premium for looking after "new fangled" stuff?

You only pay for insulation ONCE. Payment for "fuel" in whatever form is ongoing...forever.

My relative had a vertical, internal soil stack within his cavity wall that became "calcified" internally where the wc run entered at a right angle. Like a white & brown, combo stalactite and mite all at the same time. Had to have bricks removed to sort it. Of late I've seen blockages of a similar sort on site where in trying to "chip" it all off with over zealous use of "snakes" they've actually broken the pipe! With hindsight I'd still have gone "internal" and hidden a vertical stack in my mitred corner in the bathroom. Would have made future ewi so much easier!

It's a wind up mate! For every 100 or so ideas I start probably 99 and finish 1. I'm going to have to have the mailbox within my sliding gate I think as there's a steel running up through where the pillars are. Concept, Aug 2012: June 2014: And that's as far as I've got! Anway, traditional mail services will have been replaced by matter transportation by the time it'd take me! Worth a punt on here to find someone local who'll make you something bespoke: https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/

I'm lost...bc are only interested in the new extension surely. Get that all signed off and re-use the old windows in the existing house when they've gone.

Just realised (SWMBO should have checked ) that the mosaics are 398x248 and the main tiles 400x250mm. So on the height of the mosaics I'll have to "lose" 2mm at each tile. I'll just position the mosaic strip central to the tile and have a 1mm wider grout gap.

Lost as to why you can't sell the bits as a kit? It's how all the sellers of FM transmitters used to get over contravening I think the 1948 Wireless Telegraphy Act. Used to love making two transistor bugs as a kid!

Using the bath and I've tested the body dryer, all good. Everything was new / unused for whatever reason. The bathroom suite was in a Homebase 50% off sale. The two Geberit frames; they had a very thin stud wall downstairs and these were too deep. They could have used one upstairs but the SWMBO wanted upstairs and downstairs to match. Both for £100 result! The body dryer I got when the people had just had a new suite fitted and didn't want the hassle of running a new dedicated supply. They thought it could come off "the light circuit".

As has my body dryer and Geberit frames...and bath!