Onoff

Nice sloping site there...artificial lake...water source?

I'm intrigued as to what sort of tenant lives in a luxury HMO. Is it students, professional, just reasonably well off people who can't get a foot on the housing ladder etc? "Luxury" to me means privacy and not having to share any facilities.

Maybe a dry slope with a chair lift?

All on my link.

Better people than me to advise but think about it from this angle: Seal that old house up tight and insulate without ventilation and you'll have no end of condensation and mould issues plus it won't be a very pleasant place to live. So you will need to ventilator. With MVHR you can recover something like 70-90% of the heat vented out. Worth a read: https://passipedia.org/planning/refurbishment_with_passive_house_components

Before going mad what's the roof like? Get that in good order or it has the potential to ruin everything else. Also you'll be looking to use airtight tape around the windows if you door properly. If you're going that far worrying about insulation and air tightness are you considering MVHR?

Head No2 clippered (getting less and less at the front) and beard No1. Simples.

B@ll@cks! Got a cracked tile... And I know why. When I put them up I held that L shaped tile in place with mole grips:

Good shout...going be a sod getting the iron up in there though... Gloss white or textured white do you reckon? Tbh I'm debating trunking lid...

Look at that soil! You don't miss the clay up this way then?

Don't suppose you can whack some D-Line up.

Steps...don't want a tragedy...

The 3 blue ones are LAP brand IP68 deck lights that fit in a 22mm hole. £4.99 for 10, end of line with a £10 voucher! Hidden "strip" along the bath is LED colour changing strip with remote etc.

He wouldn't trust me to wash his bucket out!

IF you can get to grips with a dead simple CAD program like Draftsight then even though a 2D program, you could draw your layout then view in 3D, rotate it etc. Or fire a hand drawn 2D and I'll CAD it up and give you some different views.

6 down...well up actually... The basin & pedestal will hopefully take the eye off that God awful cock up at the end. As for the 'soffit': There's no way on Earth I can tile that as I'll never get the LED strip in/out. Thinking to get my fabricator to cut me a thin strip of 316 stainless, say 1.6mm thick and bond that up there?

Not a f***ing Scooby Doo mate! ME a tiler! ?

Sounds a good size place. The thread before yours in this section has @zoothorn looking at digging up his concrete floor in his old stone cottage and building back up an insulated floor with UFH. I've done similar in my bathroom and some key pics are there. That's one option for you with the added benefit that once the timber floors are gone the "digging" will be done. There's other options of course. @Ferdinand with his Little Brown Bungalow thread I think insulated an existing suspended floor. That didn't have UFH but there are options to incorporate UFH pipes in special grooved floor boards, aluminium spreader plates etc.

You need to consider whether this is your "forever" house and if not whether the improvements to a period place will increase it's value when you want to sell. You can do too much. Of course if you can do the work yourselves then that might make the sums add up.

The old Victorian terraces in my experience (I have a couple circa 1860) were built draughty by design. Key features were: - Suspended wooden floors with air bricks. Basically timber joists on brick dwarf walls. A big void often down to the "dirt". This allowed good, cross ventilation, front to back that kept the floor joists from rotting. - Solid brick walls with a slate damp course - Lime mortar - Lath and plaster ceilings & sometimes walls - Horse hair plaster again with a high lime content. - Proper timber floor boards with the gaps plugged with hemp string. Kept the major draughts out but still allowed plenty of ventilation. - Open chimneys. Again a good ventilation route. - Wooden windows, very air leaky. - Timber lintels Modern faux pas are: - to fit double glazing with no trickle vents. - to block up the air bricks - to block up the chimney - to render over the slate damp course - to bring the ground level up over the damp course - to put an extension on the back / porch on the front covering the air bricks / damp course. These old houses are meant to breathe to stay dry and mould free. You can as John alludes to "upgrade" the place but must pay very close attention to ventilation.

I give up.

You might want to edit your post as the op has now moved her questions to the appropriate forum section.

A bit more awake now! I'd edit your post quick. Leave the intro and cut and paste the specific questions into the Heat Insulation sub forum. The answers and suggestions will come thick and fast!

Mixing grout..... Can't remember how I mixed it for the floor. I think I used the mixing paddle in the drill: My blue one has seen some service from mixing plaster and latterly the tile adhesive. Consequently it's looking a bit tired but the main worry is that the paint is coming off and there's some dried tile adhesive on it: I could clean it fully I guess with some Disclean etc but just worried I might end up with blue paint flecks in my white grout!

Welcome, you've got some work to do there! The clever, awake people will be along shortly.