Onoff

Thanks. Yes I thought the 741 opamp was old/odd. Pretty sure I made an audio mixer years back eschewing the noisier 741 for a CA4032. Something from an R A Penfold book I think. Used to love him and F G Rayer. I was always building something as a kid.

Thanks for that. So what are the 9 & 6.3V cells on the left? Is that the Li-Ion pack itself? Why not 18V if so? V1 is the drill motor?

Came across this: http://bl1830-failureprevention.blogspot.com/2013/07/makita-radio-1-cause-of-battery-failure.html?m=1 His Advanced Solution #4 is for installing an undervoltage switch to protect from over discharge. Here's the circuit: https://www.circuitlab.com/circuit/dk4vzq/makita-undervoltage/ Can't say I understand the circuit...the cells on the left...are these the battery cells? Figuring this could easily be built into the space where the old battery slotted in?

Looking at my two Makita cordless hammer drills they just have two "tangs" that attach to the battery + & -. The Makita impact driver though has a third tang that engages with the "TH" terminal on the battery. The impact driver also is the only one of the three with the ⭐ symbol.

I bought I think it was 16000 45mm collated nails cheap when I did my fence. Don't think I'll ever have to buy any more! Wish I could fix my 90mm air nailer. Even got an overhaul / seal kit from the States to no avail.

Just reading on another forum someone tried two, good, genuine Makita batteries on their 18V B&D hedge trimmer. Polarity correct but nothing happened. Thereafter both batteries showed up faulty on the charger. Oh!

To make it look posh 'n chromed!

You could always wrap it in tin foil...

All the T&G chipboard flooring upstairs here was put down with angular ring nails. OMG the noise / squeaks! Whenever I've had carpet up I've tried to cure with Spax floorboard screws.

If blending in is the major concern.. Varilight Freestyle? Hide the switches and sockets within the wallpaper: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/VLTIFP401C.html?

Paslode IM350+ Li-ion or similar. BiL has one. Not that I'm jealous!

Be sure to fit deep enough back boxes. Some flat plate stuff needs them. For a good range with lots of pretty pictures the missus can look at, get yourself a TLC catalogue: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/catalogue-requests/new

@Ed Davies, random search for the aftermarket battery pcbs suggests discharge protection is in the batteries? Whether it needs to "talk" to the tool though??? https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/18V-Battery-PCM-PCB-Li-ion-Protect-Circuit-Board-DIY-for-Makita-Drill-Green-T3J9/123317535564?ul_ref=http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1? "Lithium battery control circuit board Protection chip for electric tools battery Compatible With: For Makita Its main function to battery are: over charge protection, over discharge protection, short circuit protection, over current protection, reverse charge protection, over heat protection Color: Green Material: CCL Voltage: 18V Size: Approx. 4.5x3.3cm/ 1.77x1."

Bored with that! Started clearing the adjacent room with a view to digging that floor up. Roughly mid house it'll be where the UFH manifold will site and possibly a UVC/TS, buffer etc. This is just a distraction from a whole lot of other sh!t going on! Off to search "avoiding Makita battery discharge" circuitry.

That was the rough plan but in the back of my mind is the fact there's some sort of feedback between tool and battery. I'm not using genuine Makita batteries (BL1830 clones) btw. The circuit board on two different clones I have are both very different from each other and the genuine Makita battery. I wonder if there's a way of adding something to the cheapo tools?

The stunts I've pulled on roofs...taking down stacks and sliding the bricks down one at a time to a mate waiting at the eaves. I remember getting up with the intent of fixing a tilted pot to find it came off in my hand and the whole thing was "live".

Stripping the grinder and it's battery down tonight: The battery lid: Inserted into the grinder: The stealth mount held against the battery lid: Tbh a rectangle of plastic (or timber?) a few mm thick screwed to the grinder base then the Stealth Mount on that should work. The grinder body plastic is really tough and would pass the "drop test" so would take a couple of self tappers: Hedge trimmer, the + & - reversed for a start: Lid moulding is quite complicated...So we'll ditch that: Stealth Mount balanced precariously: Again probably a rectangle of something to bring the base flush, deeper than for the grinder, then the Stealth Mount is the way forward I think: "Infill blocks" next then figure the battery connections. I think I'll open the tools up and hard wire the new battery connections direct to the switch etc to bypass the remnants of "tangs" that attach to the original battery.

Figured carry on this thread: I have a number of perfectly serviceable 18V tools of various, dubious, here today gone tomorrow brands. All bought on a whim, dirt cheap or got as a present: Champion circular saw Rolson 4 1/2" grinder Performance Power hedge trimmer Jigsaw, can't remember make. These came with Nicads originally. There is some interchangeability between batteries though I think with the hedge trimmer the + & - are reversed. The grinder batteries fit but the wrong way round and with the aid of some tape. Some batteries fit and work but the holding clips are in the wrong place. Tbh I'd use them more if they had good batteries that lasted and the charge times weren't "3-5 hours" and you didn't need multiple chargers. (OK, the grinder is 1 hour). So here's the plan: I had considered 3D printing but found these Makita battery Stealth Mounts moulded from tough ABS at £15 for 4. Aim is to graft these onto the top of the various tool batteries, the section that slots in. Then a couple of down pointing tags to line up with the Makita batteries + & -: These are injection moulded rather than 3D printed btw. Watch this space but don't wait up!

Putting a ladder against the gable end then shuffling along the ridge? Access from the top of the ladder will be precarious. Load wise not a problem but you might damage your ridge tiles. Presumably your two tier ladder is a double extension type? Like this: Sometimes you can separate the sections. If long enough you could use one section to access from the side and buy a set of wheeled hooks that attach to a normal ladder. Cheapest I could find from a cursory search: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-Tools-336094-Ladder-1015mm/dp/B01MDNGCVK/ref=asc_df_B01MDNGCVK/? You push the ladder up wheel side down then flip over at the top and the hooks go over the ridge and rest on the tiles the other side. (Of course whatever you do one or the other neighbour will nick your access ladder whilst you're up there! )

"Throw it in the river..." Joking I hope!

Only a couple of hours left on this but 50% off a lot of car parts. I've had quite a bit off of them. Free delivery too if you can wait a bit. Use SALE55 code. My usual factors wanted £60 for front discs and pads. This lot £45 with the code. https://www.eurocarparts.com

Is he going to want anti siphon traps on the kitchen & wc sinks?

Takes the eye off of my tiling is it's only saving grace!

Got to love women! ? A weekend I won't forget in a hurry. Friday night I get home and SWMBO decides "the sink would look better where the shower is"! Just the small matter of moving the window and a bit of re-tiling...Just glad I used screws not nails!

I wouldn't even contemplate cutting timber for stud walls with a hand held saw. Too rough. Maybe against a fence to keep it square... Nails no problem with my 185mm Evolution saw though!