Onoff

It works perfectly. Never missed a beat. As to the exact fall I'll have to have a dig through pics and sketches etc.

Surely the fact I've haven't even the gumption to join automatically qualifies me?

Insert words as required for any building discipline I undertake.

If you were a proper tiler you'd know they were called "rips". Anyway, it was poor planning not poor measuring! What a fiddly, pita they are to do as well!

What windows did you have there before, single, double glazed? Have these new windows got trickle vents? Any sign of insulation, expanding foam, (Compriband, even less likely) having been applied around the windows? Can you see daylight through the gaps between frame and walls etc?

The golden rules: 1. Use a tile levelling system. 2. Don't go for yellow grout.

They are if you're crap at tiling ask me how I know!

Make the top and bottom battens 3mm thinner and mount on some 3mm (blue) trouser shims.

The natural milled lumber we used as cladding warps and twists thus the cladding is pretty "open" to airflow. With tight fitting cladding I'd consider L shaped mesh perhaps instead of a batten top and bottom.

Impressive work on the kitchen btw 👌

I bet it's like the beach volleyball scene in Top Gun down at your YMCA!

Glory holes.

Bora downdraft extract?

No change there then.

Gold plated is it?

Nuff said... https://www.yeggi.com/q/rain+chain/

3D print one is the answer.

Good idea, the holes would let the heat through from the glycol loop!

CT1 needs to be applied 5degC. Dow do some low temperature silicones from memory for use in fridges etc.

As in "it's got spots on"?

The saying give them an inch and they'll take a mile springs to mind.

Yep, tap a wooden wedge in the top if it's tight and that concrete post will likely "bend" a 1/16". You'll have to slot the dpc where he's maybe screwed/bolted it to the wall.

You can make a nod towards cold bridging by internally, airtight taping & insulating at the window reveals. I used 27mm insulated plasterboard. My windows aren't in the best place, being level with the outside skin.

Before I joined here I thought PIR stood for passive infra red.

Now the other gang of the switch has failed. I pity anyone who's done away with hard wiring and just used Quinetic stuff.