Onoff

A few of us have Hudson Reed. I'm very pleased with mine. I think it's this one: https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/hudson-reed-reign-triple-concealed-thermostatic-shower-valve-with-diverter-rei3417? Or maybe this: https://www.hudsonreed.co.uk/products/showers/triple-valves/REI3411 British made, 20 year guarantee etc. They might do what you want.

Could I take the door off of my fridge, remove a similar size window and wedge the fridge in the hole, then seal all round the edge? Given the thread title I thought I'd ask...

You subbed the job out then?

If you'd have bought this and some black TPU you'd have had a happy wife by now: https://store.creality.com/uk/products/ender-3-v2-3d-printer?

Like a hybrid heat pump?

See how you subconsciously put insulate first? 😂

It's got to be fabric first as that makes the best of whatever heat source. Well insulated with well considered airtightness and 15 cats in a cage would probably work.

Pointless if you're pi$$ing heat out of plasterboard tents.

All ways.

So use your imagination! "Lose" some insignificant plastic kitchen bits, blame it on the supplier then suddenly realise you can print them. Go for the double and tell her how you've been on the phone giving them what for and they're sending new bits out etc. @Pocster's gonna get some!

Spaghetti Detective app allows you to keep a constant camera eye on your print and messages you if it goes awry.

In theory the bed and workpiece cool down and contract at different rates. As the bed cools you might hear a light cracking sound as the workpiece detaches. The Anycubic Ultrabase is really good for this with no extra adhesion promoter required. It's Teflon or similar coated. One reason for getting the borosilicate glass top was so that we can use other adhesion promoters, tapes etc and lever, use a sharpened scraper etc to encourage things to come off. All without damaging the Ultrabase. If printing a run of PLA the glass comes off. Sometimes it's easier to print and let the workpiece cool fully. Then heat the bed up so the bottom layer softens a bit and you can pull it off. PETG tends to stick really well.

Well done, considering your £200 budget, was it secondhand or for spares/repair?

ABS or ASA is probably best externally. ABS nicely colour fast too. Saying that we've done some PLA, in shaded areas, some primed and painted, some not that's all been fine. ABS then is notorious for warping hence an enclosure with fume control / extraction is essential. We've not been able to successfully print ABS yet but must tweak the enclosure / extraction and try again. Hugely susceptible to draughts. I know lads and it's all they use for printing. ASA is a bit more forgiving warping wise but again needs extraction. Fume control can be either by direct venting to outside or through say charcoal etc filters. You get adhesion promoters of various forms. With Anycubic they have a special dimpled bed that is magic for PLA. It adheres when printing like sh!t to a blanket. When the bed cools the part just releases. PLA loves printing in the cold, we often leave the window open. ABS needs a warm cabinet. You can add a borosilicate glass plate atop your print bed. On that you can paint ABS slurry, Kapton tape, blue masking tape, hairspray, 3D-Lac, Pritt Stick etc etc. I imagine most of your prints will be in TPU.

Germans invented that. Selective Laser Sintering is incredible. You might know it as laser powder bed fusion. You can do metals with it, things like exhaust manifolds. Gas flow can be modelled, tweaked and then what works optimally, simply printed off. There's no need to manually profile stuff after like with traditional casting.

You'll need to wear rubber gloves, a gas mask and get very sticky and messy with lots of sloshing of liquids. At least you'll have plenty of experience of similar.

I'd go with Part M, controls between 750 & 1000mm: Doc M Shower Pack Details & Layout Guide.pdf

https://www.cnet.com/tech/computing/bambu-labs-x1-carbon-vs-bambu-labs-p1p-review/

All I'll say is look what happened to Tesla. Died in poverty and the government took all his research. Dons tin hat and gets back to making his earth battery.....

There are limits as to how small you can print stuff! The one here can do layers 0.1mm thick. As an on track aside, last night I got my lad to copy the reed plate of a harmonica. It's a bit of a challenge we're trying for a lad up the pub. The original brass reeds measure 0.4mm thick so that's no issue to print. We placed the printed reed bed in the real harmonica and could actually get proper notes on the low end but struggled on the high end ones. This was on the blow. Tried a printed reed bed on the draw side and got nothing. What was interesting is that the reeds are slightly raised. We had to print flat then wedge a sliver of paper under the bent reeds to keep them up. We then reheated the reed bed to just above the glass transition temperature of PLA and let it cool. The reeds stayed in the raised position. Of course plastic lacks the tonality of brass but it was good to try.

Impressed you can spell it let alone find it!

If you aren't proficient in CAD / can't draw & model in 3D then you'll initially be limited to printing other people's designs. Many are free, check out Yeggi & Printables for a start: https://www.yeggi.com/ https://www.printables.com/ Cults3D for example has designs you need to pay a small charge for sometimes but then as @SteamyTeasays, you're used to paying for it..... This then seemed apt to start you off: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/home/ass-penholder

Even with the Adam's apple?

They'll love it, you've only got to leave a 10mm hole somewhere. I'd be most worried about the gap between brick wall and bales.

I presume they burn much better than real slate?