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Onoff

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Everything posted by Onoff

  1. Shock collars?
  2. The black 100x100 steel is my sliding gate post. I wanted a downlight on it. I drilled the box and fitted a 20mm flexible conduit gland. Flexible conduit goes back to the control box where the power is.
  3. That's actually rather good, very hurtful but good... 😂
  4. When are you making your MK3 version? There's always this: https://www.builditsolar.com/Experimental/DIYHRV/DIYHRV.htm
  5. First thing I thought was paint it: https://www.kingfisheruk.com/asbestos-roof-coating-item-55arcb
  6. Not sure I understand what you have wall wise? Could a heavy duty plastic conduit not perhaps support the light if properly glanded. Plastic wouldn't cause a cold bridge either? Fill the tube round the cable with wonder gel etc.
  7. Line the underside of the cabinet with a sheet of asbestos and it'll be fine.
  8. I modded cheap ones:
  9. Get one that has a shou sugi ban setting for charring the pallet wood on the shed.
  10. Is it finished? Is it f...!
  11. Just put some L brackets or bits of timber on the underside of the overhanging joists, right at the end. Screw or bolt gutter brackets to that.
  12. Stuck my shed felt down in 2019. 2021: 1st layer was sand felt, nailed on. Second green mineral layer was stuck down with trowelled on felt adhesive. As you can see there are no nails. No lifting etc.
  13. Not sure, found this:
  14. The "one room at a time" approach would work for me. The ground floor is big enough that we could have a temporary lounge whilst we do the lounge / diner. Even though you'd have to traverse that area by scaffold boards (for months 😂 ) whilst I gutted it and dug down / built it back up. Key to mine is digging up the central "stairs room", insulating underneath and placing the UFH manifold there. Thereafter rooms could be done one at time. I've the space even for a temporary kitchen whilst I do that. I have a plan but SWMBO thinks I'd take too long. Meanwhile we're getting older in the plasterboard tent.
  15. It's great isn't it. Next you'll tell me you're under Sevenoaks!
  16. Even with a 100mm concrete slab atop a 300mm eps raft, a previous member calculated 8% of his heat loss was through the floor. @oranjeboom here did a complete dig out on an existing build.
  17. Sounds like my place (in Kent).
  18. I've stacks of 25mm box section, circa 3.5m lengths. Did toy with the idea of making up welded lattice beams for garden building roofs. I could make it but the structural calcs aren't my thing
  19. When I did the pallet shed with the nephew we fitted a 4x2 wall plate to the top of the pallet walls. From memory we in effect infilled the top.
  20. You could perhaps loop some builders band over the rafters and bring down the inside face of the pallets?
  21. What are we looking at, the side of the shed with the roof set at a fall? Only thing I might do is face the "4x2s" or whatever they are with ply, brought flush to the face of the pallets. A birdsmouth I think stops the rafter slipping of the wall plate. Glue some wedges in there maybe then screw down with long screwd?
  22. No issue with pooling. Heavy snow, if it melts can refreeze. The gate track profile lends itself to running a trace heating cable up inside it. I've a duct in ready for it. Tbh beech nuts are the biggest issue. They'll stop the gate in it's track.
  23. I mulled a giant solar thermal array and glycol filled loop with insulation under the path / drive. It's just a pipe dream though...
  24. I considered two insulated / heated tyre tracks up my sloping drive. I will at least likely fit a trace heating element in my sliding gate track.
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