Onoff

Made by Ruvru?

I always wanted a Goblin Tea Maid.

You'd have thought with all that money he could have varnished the table top!

You clearly know your onions!

I didn't do this just tidied it up. Back box was rattling in the wall, access to inspect was a pig. Stupid, stupid, stupid!

Boasting again!

Aquapanel is a rigid, solid, inflexible cement board.

Use the proper screws for it. I used Starretts to drill holes in it. To cut, then cheap carbide grit jigsaw blades from TS and an old circular saw. The dust is very abrasive btw. Some advocate the score 'n snap method.

I used Knauf Aquapanel both 6 and 12mm. The face of your studs has to be dead level as it's not very flexible like pb. It can develop hairline cracks but it doesn't appear detrimental as it's made with loads of cross-linked fibres.

With the walls back to bare brick and ceilings down it should make rewiring and plumbing a breeze I think. Some sockets are fed via PVC trunking / conduit but it's hit and miss. One concern with boarding would be the door linings and whether these would need to be renewed to account for the new wall finishes. Pretty sure that if I used 25mm battens that would encroach over doorways. I think all the internal doorways have timber lintels as an aside. Clean slate would at least let me see what I've got.

I'm trying to give up thinking altogether. I just pray for 6 numbers or a massive clutcher most days.

As an aside to the plastering thread the mid terrace I have has 2G, upvc windows dating from the early 90s. There are no trickle vents fitted which tbh I think there should be. Is it easy retrofitting them, do you have to choose a certain size, then do you have to route a slot or will a series of drilled holes suffice? Thanks.

I'd go 25mm battens minimum so you can at least get a 35mm back box in there comfortably.

Ceiling heights would be fine for that. I'd still have though the 160 year old ceilings above. Pull up an upstairs floorboard and you're looking down on all the accumulated filth, mouse poo and skin cells that have slipped through the gaps in the boards and is sat atop the laths. Thinking "clean slate" is the best way to go.

Evening, Looking at possibly replastering the two upstairs and two downstairs walls of a 2 up 2 down mid terrace from 1865. The 4 rooms plus stairwell. That and the two downstairs ceilings that are currently lath and plaster. I believe it's lime / horse hair plaster. Very thick but quite hollow in places so I don't think a skim over or boarding over is a goer. Are modern materials like an opc based render followed by a multifinish plaster a no go? I'm thinking it should all be breathable. Just starting to consider this so early days.

Do I recall on here, that it was Marbo sockets had only one screw hole earthed?

Routing jigs, coil formers, knife blocks, helical milling jigs, rubber feet for drainers... I can't count the practical things we use it for, in use every day.

Thanks, looks like I have to subscribe

@SteamyTea have you an actual link to that article please?

There's this type too: I got my lad to print an adapter to exactly fit the Makita cordless: For accurate "edge" drilling though he'll print guides for that particular board thickness that clip over the edge.

The Schneider si types are not time delayed but protect against transient inrush current on startup. They've solved a lot of headaches for me where the client/spec called for a 30mA RCD.

Check out Schneider Type B si RCD & RCBO types. I've always used where inverters firung up cause nuisance tripping: https://www.se.com/uk/en/product-subcategory/1620-acti9-residual-current-devices-rcds/

Macro faciility then?

Honestly the crap people make!