Onoff

You can make a nod towards cold bridging by internally, airtight taping & insulating at the window reveals. I used 27mm insulated plasterboard. My windows aren't in the best place, being level with the outside skin.

Before I joined here I thought PIR stood for passive infra red.

Now the other gang of the switch has failed. I pity anyone who's done away with hard wiring and just used Quinetic stuff.

If filling a pallet wall with insulation, what's the best stuff to use? PIR would be a complete pain to do I'm thinking. Something fluffy I guess?

Love it!

Yes the battens were painted with a dark brown wood preserver. The tile battens and the fresh cut ones. Get a couple of trestles or tarp on the ground and paint them all at once by pushing all the battens together. Paint one face of each, turn each one 90deg, push back together and repeat. I'm debating even painting the palets themselves if I do one.

That's what we did. It'll make it easier to put your cladding on, regular fixing points etc. We used a combination of tile battens and some fresh timber milled to the same size from the chap who gave us the cladding (literally offcuts from milling the trees). Staple your membrane on. I've a couple of this sort though Parkside ones from Lidl: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374194279817? With a helper roll it out along a side, watch you keep the bottom level to whatever line you're finishing at. Staple top left. Then with the helper holding the roll staple bottom right. Stapling on the diagonal will keep it taught. Staple here and there. Cut the membrane and fold/staple into any window & door reveals. You'll want a horizontal batten top and bottom to try and prevent insect and vermin ingress. Then do vertical battens (between the top and bottom ones) and cladding. Got any pictures yet?

After many more callouts a sympathetic engineer deemed our machine unserviceable. This on the basis the required spare part was no longer available. Engineers were good, bad and very bad. Some direct from the service outfit, some subbies. After one visit with it left "working", the belt started to slip off. After refitting a few times I then had a look and found a lug on the motor broken off. Not just broken off but missing and nowhere to be found. On the back of this we got a new one FOC under the service contract. You got given a choice, a list deemed equivalent to what you had. To upgrade your choice you could pay extra. SWMBO chose another Hotpoint! Despite me batting on about buying Miele. Just another nail in my coffin I'm sure.

Shock collars?

The black 100x100 steel is my sliding gate post. I wanted a downlight on it. I drilled the box and fitted a 20mm flexible conduit gland. Flexible conduit goes back to the control box where the power is.

That's actually rather good, very hurtful but good... 😂

Look how well they worked.

When are you making your MK3 version? There's always this: https://www.builditsolar.com/Experimental/DIYHRV/DIYHRV.htm

First thing I thought was paint it: https://www.kingfisheruk.com/asbestos-roof-coating-item-55arcb

Not sure I understand what you have wall wise? Could a heavy duty plastic conduit not perhaps support the light if properly glanded. Plastic wouldn't cause a cold bridge either? Fill the tube round the cable with wonder gel etc.

Line the underside of the cabinet with a sheet of asbestos and it'll be fine.

I modded cheap ones:

Get one that has a shou sugi ban setting for charring the pallet wood on the shed.

Is it finished? Is it f...!

Just put some L brackets or bits of timber on the underside of the overhanging joists, right at the end. Screw or bolt gutter brackets to that.

Stuck my shed felt down in 2019. 2021: 1st layer was sand felt, nailed on. Second green mineral layer was stuck down with trowelled on felt adhesive. As you can see there are no nails. No lifting etc.

Not sure, found this:

The "one room at a time" approach would work for me. The ground floor is big enough that we could have a temporary lounge whilst we do the lounge / diner. Even though you'd have to traverse that area by scaffold boards (for months 😂 ) whilst I gutted it and dug down / built it back up. Key to mine is digging up the central "stairs room", insulating underneath and placing the UFH manifold there. Thereafter rooms could be done one at time. I've the space even for a temporary kitchen whilst I do that. I have a plan but SWMBO thinks I'd take too long. Meanwhile we're getting older in the plasterboard tent.

It's great isn't it. Next you'll tell me you're under Sevenoaks!

Even with a 100mm concrete slab atop a 300mm eps raft, a previous member calculated 8% of his heat loss was through the floor. @oranjeboom here did a complete dig out on an existing build.