Onoff

The natural milled lumber we used as cladding warps and twists thus the cladding is pretty "open" to airflow. With tight fitting cladding I'd consider L shaped mesh perhaps instead of a batten top and bottom.

Impressive work on the kitchen btw 👌

I bet it's like the beach volleyball scene in Top Gun down at your YMCA!

Glory holes.

Bora downdraft extract?

No change there then.

Gold plated is it?

Nuff said... https://www.yeggi.com/q/rain+chain/

3D print one is the answer.

Good idea, the holes would let the heat through from the glycol loop!

CT1 needs to be applied 5degC. Dow do some low temperature silicones from memory for use in fridges etc.

As in "it's got spots on"?

The saying give them an inch and they'll take a mile springs to mind.

Yep, tap a wooden wedge in the top if it's tight and that concrete post will likely "bend" a 1/16". You'll have to slot the dpc where he's maybe screwed/bolted it to the wall.

You can make a nod towards cold bridging by internally, airtight taping & insulating at the window reveals. I used 27mm insulated plasterboard. My windows aren't in the best place, being level with the outside skin.

Before I joined here I thought PIR stood for passive infra red.

Now the other gang of the switch has failed. I pity anyone who's done away with hard wiring and just used Quinetic stuff.

If filling a pallet wall with insulation, what's the best stuff to use? PIR would be a complete pain to do I'm thinking. Something fluffy I guess?

Love it!

Yes the battens were painted with a dark brown wood preserver. The tile battens and the fresh cut ones. Get a couple of trestles or tarp on the ground and paint them all at once by pushing all the battens together. Paint one face of each, turn each one 90deg, push back together and repeat. I'm debating even painting the palets themselves if I do one.

That's what we did. It'll make it easier to put your cladding on, regular fixing points etc. We used a combination of tile battens and some fresh timber milled to the same size from the chap who gave us the cladding (literally offcuts from milling the trees). Staple your membrane on. I've a couple of this sort though Parkside ones from Lidl: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374194279817? With a helper roll it out along a side, watch you keep the bottom level to whatever line you're finishing at. Staple top left. Then with the helper holding the roll staple bottom right. Stapling on the diagonal will keep it taught. Staple here and there. Cut the membrane and fold/staple into any window & door reveals. You'll want a horizontal batten top and bottom to try and prevent insect and vermin ingress. Then do vertical battens (between the top and bottom ones) and cladding. Got any pictures yet?

After many more callouts a sympathetic engineer deemed our machine unserviceable. This on the basis the required spare part was no longer available. Engineers were good, bad and very bad. Some direct from the service outfit, some subbies. After one visit with it left "working", the belt started to slip off. After refitting a few times I then had a look and found a lug on the motor broken off. Not just broken off but missing and nowhere to be found. On the back of this we got a new one FOC under the service contract. You got given a choice, a list deemed equivalent to what you had. To upgrade your choice you could pay extra. SWMBO chose another Hotpoint! Despite me batting on about buying Miele. Just another nail in my coffin I'm sure.

Shock collars?

The black 100x100 steel is my sliding gate post. I wanted a downlight on it. I drilled the box and fitted a 20mm flexible conduit gland. Flexible conduit goes back to the control box where the power is.

That's actually rather good, very hurtful but good... 😂