Onoff

Angle grind a slot in the wall - on a downward facing angle. Fit lead. Bead of lead sealant.

I've gone through the whole "elderly parent" thing, watching them struggle with sockets just above the skirting, or having to let go of their walker and reach up to "high" switches. Most sockets or switches I fit or move now are put in / back 450 - 1200mm. Seems very practical to me.

Be conscious if drilling into a slab if you break out the other side. You can end up pumping copious amounts of resin into any void. Learnt the hard way when a mate and I were fixing to a cavity wall using the old resin capsules. We keep pushing them in and they were falling down the cavity! With pumped resin like we're on about here you can get special mesh sleeves: https://www.kernow-how.com/ProductGrp/resin-plastic-mesh-sleeves Tbh, for what you're doing I'd just scrunch up newspaper and push it tight down the hole. Try and avoid breaking through in the first place by using a depth stop on the drill. When fixing say a 4 hole base plate then use the base plate to mark through with the drill. Then drill and CLEAN the holes out. Clean holes are paramount to the resin taking. Have your 4 studs sat ready next to the holes. Pump in the resin to each hole quickly. Push a stud in each, with a wee twist. Drop the base plate over the studs which won't yet be set. WALK AWAY and let them set before putting nuts and washers on. Don't worry too much about excess resin squidging out of the hole but do worry about excess resin getting on the stud threads where you're going to put a nut. I clean the holes then drop a stud in loose. I'll then tape the thread with some leccy tape where it projects above the hole. Peel off later when set.

Interesting, can I ask who?

Starlink is lower in orbit so the latency really isn't that bad. My lad, an avid gamer, reckons it's fine for gaming that's why he went for it. Worst he's noted is 41ms. Usually much lower.

Aerial on mine. Coax runs inside the black box, through the pillar to the control box.

I removed a dash blank and got my lad to copy and 3D print it to take a push button. then you take a fob apart and solder the push button to it with a couple of wires,

Only you can decide on this at the end of the day but let just propose you use these at the back where the existing slab is. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175719585849 It has x4 14mm fixing holes in the base. That dictates you'll use 12mm studs, (stainless of course). You reckon the slab is 3 to 4" deep. Look at the table, page 3 of the Rawlplug PDF as a rough guide for minimum substrate thickness, embedded depth etc. This one takes 10mm fixing bolts: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Heavy-Galvanised-Concealed-Support-Bracket/dp/B08FQV9XYW? Tbh unless you pay a structural engineer to calculate all this it's best guess / a chance you take.

My old man would paint the bricks below the dpc religiously, every year. Mind he got the black bitumen paint from work... I like the look tbh.

It's a no brainer surely? Gate Gates, you could by two for the price of one from Easy Gates. Saying that the Lift Master stuff from Easy Gates has been super reliable. My BiL got their kit first (sliding), then me (sliding), then a neighbour (swing), then my mate (sliding). Ongoing support, extra fobs etc never an issue.

It looks like YOUR shed!

You're not in Kansas anymore!

Have a read on page 8:

The Rawlplug load / depth table for their R-KEM II is a pretty good go to for resin anchors. Attached PDF. Note they say it's not for use in cracked concrete. I happen to prefer Fischer products, specifically FIS V 360. They do give data for cracked concrete. With any resin product I find it best to use the specific resin gun. You can mind get various resins in a single, silcone tube size for use with a normal mastic gun. I find that hard work. I did a little write up with pictures somewhere on here, will see if I can find it. 22828.RAWLPLUG.EN.R-KEM II POLYESTER STYRENE FREE RESIN CONCRETE.pdf LT_01_FIS-V-T2_F_SEN_AIP_V1.pdf

A case of horse bolted but hey ho. One option is to dig out the slab and recast proper pads. I imagine you're keen to avoid that. Without seeing a photo and considering it's existing, then maybe a 4 hole base plate type but use stainless steel studs resin anchored into the concrete. Concrete needs to be a certain thickness ideally. Using resin anchors as opposed to expanding types anchors has a number of advantages. - You can drill closer to the edge and have the bolts set closer together. - Resin is better in cracked concrete. - The anchor method itself doesn't put lateral (expanding) forces into the slab, with an expanding anchor too close an edge distance risks breakout. - The resin / stud combo fills the hole completely like a waterproof plug. Expanding anchors, even in stainless steel, can allow water to get in and freeze/thaw. Sometimes enough to crack the concrete. The key with resin anchors is to have a clean hole to start with. Drilled to size and properly brushed and puffed out.

Looks like I did it. Pi$$ coloured grout would finish it off nice.

Loads about like this, all variations on a theme: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324527521877?gad_source=1&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338723872&toolid=20006&customid=e2YxEO0dAAAAI_-RymarhmEgWqwFAAAAAA Think @ProDaveused similar on his?

Hearing it makes me want to commit offences that would put me in prison...

Do you work in HR per chance?

Insufficient imho. Our neighbour did similar for his fence posts. Cast concrete footings, let them set, then drilled and used expanding anchors for 4-hole metal post shows. Wind took the lot out. The kids tree house base here, 6+ 4x4 posts. I had galvanised brackets made up. 10mm side plates are bent at 90deg where they go into the concrete about a foot down. Then with my 100x100x6 steel gate posts, I cross drilled and put 20mm dia stainless bar to anchor into the concrete.

"Pressure stops" as in rubber safety edges. The legislation applies to swing gates too. I think one of the unfortunate accidents was where a child leant through a closed swing gate to reach the button the other side. The attached sets it all out. documents8a.pdf

I use this lot: https://www.easygates.co.uk/

How about a layer of big bubble, bubble wrap under the joists, for the Rockwool to sit on? Air gaps between the bubbles and you could puncture it all over in between the bubbles for "drainage".

LEDs Are Pants? https://www.kingfisher.com/en/own-exclusive-brand.html

So much in common! 👍