Onoff

Hmm...wish the bench was still as tidy... Good excuse to give the kids a go at welding!

Ta. Might have to stretch to a proper whacker. Don't think my 5kN Evolution electric one will cut it. I've a trench or two to dig across the drive for power, comms etc. Seen too many times this done then the trench line not properly compacted and the paving sinking a couple of years later. With hindsight I should have had the trench dug and laid the duct(s) a couple of years back and allowed for "natural settlement! Needs the "elephant's foot" whacker type too. Maybe I'll get a hire deal on both whackers! ?

Possibly have the opportunity to get my driveway dug out for the cost of the dumper/digger diesel it takes. I can also get rid of the spoil too. In terms of sub base I've a fair bit of mixed hard core; 7 jumbo bags plus I think 80 ordinary rubble bags. I'll be onto Paving Expert site but is using this stuff as a sub base with minimal breaking up a goer? Trying to save all round and not hire a crusher. It's a mix of roof tiles, bathroom tiles, render brick, block, old concrete path etc. Rough area is 6m x 6m but likely to grow a bit!

My VW Golf is holding on at +200K! ? Mind you I struggle to let go of things and think anything can be repaired. Hence the cars I drive ending looking like Trigger's broom! The same age / mileage Focus hasn't fared so well due the dreaded tin worm. For all that I prefer the Ford all day long for most things from handling to comfort. Many things on the VW make it easier to service for the most part though.

Even better, generate at point of use from good old H2O.

Brilliant just brilliant. Enough left over for a stair gate?

I'd be careful. Well known issues with the non factory fitted, fibreglass X Packs etc on Ford Capris back in the day. People would affix them with metal rivets then skim over with filler, prime and paint. Over time these little fixing points would become super hot spots on Sunny days to the point of bubbling the paint and expanding to the point the kit panels could eventually loosen.

You want to look into the art of Döstädning.

Insulation going on top....of the roof joists? A wild idea but could you carry that on and down the walls on the OUTSIDE as ewi? A more seamless thermal envelope, more space inside etc. Maybe a f'glass roof with hidden edge gutter and hidden vertical gutter detail like @Barney12 did on his dormer.

How about this stuff? https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FDAD4.html Pretty sure I have occasional visitors running along the eaves where this duct goes through so I see a potential chewing issue. If they get into the duct they can get into the void in the wet room corner! Many holes to block still!

I'd advise against insulating a shed using cans of expanding foam. Like a poor man's Icynene.

My room was so out of square and I wanted inset, illuminated pockets that I battened everything square. Tbh it was more like hanging stud walls on the walls.

I made the battened walls on the floor then raised into place. The battens were nominally fixed with x5 concrete screws. Here and there where they didn't take I used Fisher resin and studs. I really damaged my pir by walking on it for so long! Ended up repairing with foil tape. Discovered Correx too late! When the opposing battened walls were up I screwed screeding rails to them (Unistrut) and used a drag board across to get the wet concrete dead level.

My build up is similar as in wall battens on DPM. I dug up the existing concrete floor, laid compacted type 2, then sand blinded. I then made in effect an EPS "well": Over that I laid a DPM: 150mm of pir on top of the DPM: Where it goes up the wall a bit isn't stuck: I then put 1m high DPM on the two external walls: The 1m high DPM comes down and tucks under the battened wall bottom member: The floor DPM comes up over: There's a min gap behind all the battens of 5mm foam filled. Once I'd pir'd in between all the battens I put a vcl over the whole lot: Looking back it seems awfully complicated! Who cares!

...I was kidding!

Compriband would probably be the ultimate albeit expensive gap filler!

Not my table saw. Floor in mate's shed is ankle deep in sawdust anyway! ??

Erm...just cut half way through then turn it over?

Some cut it say 5mm less than the gap then foam fill to ensure at least one side is super tight to the studs / joists. I'm doing that above my bathroom between the 145mm deep joists at 400mm centres. Already got 100mm in there. Adding some 40mm I scored free as a top layer that'll overlap the 100mm joints. Nominal gap is 355mm between joists so I've cut the 40mm pir at 350mm. Tbh I'll probably gun foam all the edges. You can only really g'tee a super straight, square edge if "factory" (though not always) or if cut on a table saw. Then you have to contend with warped sheets etc. Expanding foam takes up these defects. It's why Icynene is so good.

Run the dpm across the floor then up the wall a bit. In my bathroom refurb I did this and also put a 1m high strip of dpm on the two external walls that sits down behind the tucked up floor dpm. (I'd had some previous damp issues where the outside path was higher than the dpc and the internal concrete floor dead level with the dpc). Wall pir should butt up tight to the floor pir to create a thermal envelope or you get cold bridging. Foam fill gaps.

Pause function when the phone rings, pulse function to simmer, boost function. I'd say they're MORE controllable than gas.

I know several die hard gas hob fans who've converted to induction and wouldn't go back.

Edges go a bit yellow and manky if it lives outside for too long. I've just gotten round to cutting this stack of freebie sheets up on the table saw. No mask , could explain why I'm coughing up green + blood. It's either the pir fibres, when I cleaned all the cr@p off the tiles last weekend or when I de-ratted the car the other day. Mask then eh?

This might help ref the fittings:

I used a program called @Nickfromwales.....and AutoCAD...