Onoff

Be interesting here. Never had a cleaner put through or inhibitor added and I've owned the place 20 years. I've drained and refilled a few times when modding the system / changing valves etc. I can't even get to the cws or header tanks easily / safely. It's a cut roof at about 45deg. The beam at the angle on the left is one of the 5x2 rafters. The beam lower right is one of three 4x2s that the tanks sit on, decked with pallet wood first by the look of things. The 4x2s are NAILED each end to the 5×2 rafters. I can't physically get my shoulders up through the gap in the pipework to even look in the tanks / change the ball valves. The previous owner who did this was a short, slight chap. It also means working off steps and theres no proper floor to stand them on either. Knock down rebuild? If only! ? Think I might be going down with @pocster's man flu and the enormity of the tasks here are getting to me.....Christ who does that sound like?

How often do you clean them out? I assume you just use the isolation valves on them, unscrew and empty the crud?

That's out then!

Right, just watched a little GIF of how things work. Seems you have primary and secondary flows and returns. Struggling to see the point. It won't keep the dirty old system separate from the new circuit(s)...will it?

Aside from the price and how it's fitted! I might not have baulked at the price if I understood it! Off to read the ad again then Google for typical circuit.

Link not working...

Something like this on page 1. Existing single pipe heats the tank indirectly...

Thanks all. Does anyone have a generic diagram of what I need? Been looking to no avail. So @JSHarris, I can site one of those plastic tanks with a vent cap, above my vented indirect copper cylinder that I want to use as a buffer? No G3?

I need to resurrect this idea. Got down to 16 in the bathroom the other day. This is just now (yes I still need to touch the ceiling up where I fitted the fan): Is there no way of having a buffer tank with expansion tank that doesn't need an annual G3 inspection?

@vfrdave, it's in the 1st class post this morning so you should get it tomorrow. Let's hope it works! Protect your floor before you try this. Drop of lube I would on the spindle. Tbh I'd probably go one or two drops of 3 in 1or similar but no more, above all avoid staining your tiles. Not sure if these will drill dry? I've only ever used them to drill bricks and kept them cool/lubed with water from a plant sprayer. In your case maybe take off and dip in water occasionally. Guess you'll want to avoid water behind the tiles...

1350mm wet room former instead of a tray? Only 850 the other way though... https://www.tradewetrooms.com/tough-x-1350x850x22mm-wetroom-shower-tray/#wetrooom-drain

I remember nearly 40 years ago being prompted to "just jump down" onto a lower roof whilst doing a survey as a 16 year apprentice. The bloke with me knew they were doing a flood test on the roof, I didn't and it was as still as a mill pond.....

Wasn't that the couple where he was German and they had a German system and their installers come over to fit it?

Epic project this. All bought?

The Extradition Act 2003? ?

Could you water jet in such a way as retain the natural finish on the outside? Flamed granite is a rougher finish, v.nice imo but obviously another process after cutting.

Is there any mileage in investigating on site water jet cutting? Hugely slow I imagine though...

Bragging rights? ? You'll need the £600 flush plate to go with it.

https://magpi.raspberrypi.org/articles/back-up-raspberry-pi

A few on here have them. @JSHarris for a start, @Barney12 also I think. Some pics of Jeremy's panels in this thread for instance.

For example: INS045-13_(Veritas_R8+_Install).pdf Pick the model you want then we'll see if we can get the diagram so you can have a think / plan.

Random pic off the web. Note how the black, tapered washer fits. The red fibre washer compresses the black one without turning it. Hand tight only as above:

Only been there the once but I'd have to live further south in Australia. Like in New Zealand!

Bloody Hell that's a steal! I'd not looked at the actual links before. So the Tx can run off say a 9V battery as it's 5-12vdc? Turn it on with the NC contacts in the relay when mains is lost and it'll start transmitting. The house end...a 12V wall wart to power it? The pcb relay powering something this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2PCS-SFM-27-DC-3-24V-90DB-Intermittent-Beep-Alarm-Electronic-Buzzer-Sounder-FJ/143366277288?epid=0&hash=item21614bc8a8:g:GNUAAOSwSwNbTblp All very cheap and doable at this rate.

I've drilled it out to 10.2mm (M12 tapping drill). It's a tad off centric but spins nice on a 10mm drill as the video clip shows: Video: Will try and get in the post Monday.