Onoff

How about £220 for a Geberit UP320 with odour extraction. Then £135 for a Bernstein standard or £195 rimless, (smooth exterior) wc.

I'm only doing the pug as the body is sound and my lad's having it as a first car and he'll be getting his hands dirty doing it.

I am now at the point when if I spend out on either car it's generally worth more than the car. Just spent circa £200 on a couple of drive shafts, a radiator, 2 diff seals and a pas pump by shopping around for a 2000 pug. Gets me out of the house!

I know what @pocster is getting at. That UP100 frame limits you on choice of flush plates imo. And that Vitra wc is plain fugly and then some. Those side recesses OMFG!

Touched for sure, and often.

If BCO has OK'd it I can't see the issue. It's only diverted rainwater run off anyway.

Do a bit, it rains, repeat! ? Being under the tree is a double edged sword. A bit of protection but light not so good and then there's the leaves: Temporary halt to proceedings whilst I knock up a ply former for this pillar's junction box and drill the stainless steel plate lintels with my new Chinesium hole saws...if they work! "Stainless steel is special" ?

Sorry, you want me to edit my post?

Let's hope Tubbs & Edward next door don't read this forum.

@vfrdave, would a 40mm diamond hole saw be OK? I have 35 and 40 but the 40 is "meatier" hence will I think be easier to drill in the lathe and graft to the Starrett arbour. I'll do them both. The 40 dia is also longer. Don't get your hopes up btw! ? These things are made of some sort of Chinesium! Thinking some more...would this do, 35mm dia carbide edged holesaw on a Starrett arbour (drilled to go over the spindle)? Its one of these: https://www.toolstation.com/tungsten-carbide-grit-holesaw/p73155 This is the Vernier I use. Stainless steel made by Mauser. It's outlasted all my digital ones:

I'll have a look in a bit a what bits I've got here to do this. Too dark to go and borrow the lathe now so hang fire and if its feasible I'll do tomorrow and post Monday.

SWMBO here isn't keen when I play them now tbh and I'm fifty...erm something...

Poor you!

For all of us! ?

Powerchange? Wow, you're posh! ? Measure from face of tile to end of spindle and I'll see if it'll work. I can drill right up the centre of the arbour in the lathe if necessary.

If you can measure the spindle dia accurately (think mine was 9mm from memory) and the diameter you need for the screw in bit I could make something up here and post I'm sure. Got loads of spare arbours and would happily give you one of my diamond hole saws just for the challenge of making it / to see the job done right. Do the cylindrical bits screw on first like this: Then a cover plate pushes on? (Horseshoe of silicone, open at the bottom):

Can't stress the importance of written communication in case things go wrong. Need to grow a thick skin as it won't be the first hurdle. Don't let the project control you. You control the project. Maybe he was going deep so they never found YOUR body! ?

52mm, the original eBay listing text: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Wheel-Bearing-Special-Hub-Nut-Box-Spanner-DEFENDER-DISCOVERY-606435-/130750239660?

Not tricky at all. Email the man you're paying the money to and ask the questions you're worried about.

Man up you English tart! ? Keep calm and carry on. Drink more / worry less.

I feel such an amateur! ? The idea behind all this "faffing" is to be able to remove elements later without breaking the tile: This box spannner's for a Landrover apparently...

I took a Starrett arbour, removed the 1/4" pilot and drilled up the middle so it slipped over the the spindle after measuring the diameter of the spindle with a Vernier: It allowed me to then fit a hole saw and use the spindle in effect where the pilot drill was. Thus the hole drilled was perfectly concentric to the mixer: Thus the mixer fitted perfectly: Appeciate this was in Aqua Panel but you could do the same for drilling the tile but with a grit edged hole saw or ideally diamond edged one.

Steady on now, you don't yet know what the score is floor height wise until you email your builder and he comes back to you. You wouldn't/couldn't just render clay btw.

Old houses often have v.shallow footings if at all in some cases. My place for instance, original circa 1930 footings on the right. Later (early 50s I think) footings on the left.

Standard but the frame doesn't encroach.