Onoff

Bugger! Second pillar was going so well and we were paying closer attention to the joint thicknesses. I'd done a couple of arbitrary laser checks between pillars on the lower courses which said it was nom 20mm out one side to the other but then just carried on with this second one. Bear with me, just venting here, but I think I know how I'm going to mitigate unless any better suggestions. Both columns will be 32 bricks high. Nom 75mm per course as in 65mm brick + 10mm mortar. Looking from the front the first pillar is too high. At 26 bricks high its 1960mm where it should have been 1950mm by design (26x75=1950). The second pillar at 26 bricks high is 1930mm so 20mm too low. Its round the back things have gone a bit wrong for some reason. I've not yet finished the second pillar: On the first pillar course 30 pretty much sits under the 100x100 gate member: To the extent that to maintain a gap around the steel I cut a section out of the brick. Also did the top brick so it looks symmetrical: HOWEVER...the second post is coming out 45mm too low. Brick 30 will pass under it by a mile. From the top of brick 30 to the the top of the grey post is 145mm. The top of brick No32 would therefore be just about level with the top of the post rather than showing a good, notched out chunk like on the first pillar above. I think sitting here back in the warm that the grey posts are sitting at different heights. Off to measure/laser in a minute. If I do nothing and carry on then the front, road view will look right but the rear won't. Saying that pillar 2 will be forever covered by the gate. Tempted to up these last 6 courses mortar joints from 10 to maybe 12mm to help mitigate the rear. That'd put the top of the brick about 20mm above the steel. I want to maintain some clearance around the post where it comes out of the pillar as there's some deflection if the gate is banged hard. Shouldn't tbh be a huge issue once the motor is driving it. Off into the damp/cold for some more mulling! ?

Typical bloody council rewires done in trunking. Private customers can end up with it too mind. The wife's late aunt, very well to do and loaded had a couple of "wonderful chaps" rewire her big place. Surface mount everywhere. They went up the wall in mt, stopped at the ornate plaster coving then across the ceilings to the lamps again in trunking. Paid cash, done in a day, no certs etc.

As an example see here how there's two Redland 49 variants; granular and through coloured. One suitable for shallower pitches. My main roof is about a 45deg pitch. Theres then a shallow pitch roof at the rear. I think it's all done in granular so moss loves to take hold on the shallow pitch.

Looks like some serious trip hazard / foot entanglement issues too.

Here is the incident report: https://www.ife.org.uk/Firefighter-Safety-Incidents/shirley-towers-2010/34619

You're a true gent. Thank you.

You can get similar tiles that are, for want of a better word, "smoother" to use on shallower angle roofs. Check the Marley ones are as suitable as the Redland for your angle.

Not for me. As above, it for my mate Simon. A Saffa sparks but he's alright really, we go back years. Do you want something for it?

Thanks. A bit lost.... you mean a usb to parallel converter. Then Mach 3 is what hardware or software? He wants to build a cnc table where he can use his wood router and his plasma cutter. Sure someone on here has built their own cnc table, you, Jeremy maybe?

Fingers crossed I win at least a tenner then!

I promise if I win big I'll buy that glazing!

I pray for 6 numbers or death. Don't think I'm joking.

Thanks. So to use on a modern pc...a converter? USB to parallel?

Jesus! Dig up stairs room adjacent to the bathroom to allow UFH routing to all other rooms, garden room, hip to gable conversion on the house, rebuild the stable, re roof and ewi the house, lounge diner knock through. Lower floors in kitchen, conservatory (and lounge). Excavate around whole house and slope land away from it, treatment plant, drive, storage over garage... For now I might just do some infill fence panels either side of the pillars... Not enough money or years left tbh!

6 courses to go!

A mate has just asked me this. I haven't got a clue but I reckon someone here knows! ? "Do you know much about CNC controller cards, from what I understand you can get them standard ready to run just need to connect to PC and stepper motor drives?"

You need to get yourself a copy of the On Site Guide then check out Appendix E. There are clear tables in there that give the conduit 'factor' for that size conduit, a big number dependent on whether it's a short straight run or a long one with varying numbers of bends. You then find the cable factor for whatever csa cable (assuming singles) and whether is solid or stranded. Basically you don't exceed the conduit factor with all the cable factors added together.

Be interesting here. Never had a cleaner put through or inhibitor added and I've owned the place 20 years. I've drained and refilled a few times when modding the system / changing valves etc. I can't even get to the cws or header tanks easily / safely. It's a cut roof at about 45deg. The beam at the angle on the left is one of the 5x2 rafters. The beam lower right is one of three 4x2s that the tanks sit on, decked with pallet wood first by the look of things. The 4x2s are NAILED each end to the 5×2 rafters. I can't physically get my shoulders up through the gap in the pipework to even look in the tanks / change the ball valves. The previous owner who did this was a short, slight chap. It also means working off steps and theres no proper floor to stand them on either. Knock down rebuild? If only! ? Think I might be going down with @pocster's man flu and the enormity of the tasks here are getting to me.....Christ who does that sound like?

How often do you clean them out? I assume you just use the isolation valves on them, unscrew and empty the crud?

That's out then!

Right, just watched a little GIF of how things work. Seems you have primary and secondary flows and returns. Struggling to see the point. It won't keep the dirty old system separate from the new circuit(s)...will it?

Aside from the price and how it's fitted! I might not have baulked at the price if I understood it! Off to read the ad again then Google for typical circuit.

Link not working...

Something like this on page 1. Existing single pipe heats the tank indirectly...

Thanks all. Does anyone have a generic diagram of what I need? Been looking to no avail. So @JSHarris, I can site one of those plastic tanks with a vent cap, above my vented indirect copper cylinder that I want to use as a buffer? No G3?