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Everything posted by Onoff
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Should have had a beer before! Crimped a couple of 1.5mm2 wires into the tool, inside, (internal battery wiring is 18 AWG) and brought them out through a couple of drilled holes: Probably should have stopped there! Put the wires onto the Makita battery and nada, nothing! A quick check with the meter and I found I had continuity from the battery POSITIVE, through the tool switch to the motor. Had no continuity though on the negative side. Looked at the SMD laden pcb and thought I can't even see half the stuff and even with a magnifying glass probably haven't the dexterity everything's so small. I then, for some reason took the battery off. Half asleep I put it back on but with reversed polarity! There was a crack and some smoke and the variable resistor is well and truly cooked! Bin job.
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I've a slightly out of date test and inspection guide here you're welcome too. Fundamental testing remains the same tbh. The Scadden books are pretty good imo but for belt and braces the latest Guidance Note 3 is probably the best bet (about £27). Lots of clear, pretty pictures. I know I'm rarely serious but dead testing prior to energizing a circuit is a must. Saved the day for me on many an occasion. Done properly it'll flag up your and other's mistakes and tbh isn't that hard to do. An all singing all dancing Megger multi function tester is around the £800 mark now. Of course you have to know how to use it.
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Problems with your ring? Live by the sword etc! ?
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Fabric and ventilation heat loss calculator
Onoff replied to Jeremy Harris's topic in Heat Insulation
I feel your pain! Calculating the losses for the bathroom as it's basically now an insulated box (and will be nominally airtight) is something I'd like to do later (along with an airtightness test), these things just out of interest. I've two different wall constructions. On one wall out of the 4 the insulation thickness tapers from 50mm one end to nom 100mm the other where I squared the room off. How I'd calc that I have no idea. Whatever, it's a damn sight better than before! ? Could you not "work backwards" so to speak? As in if having fabric elements of varying construction just choose to ignore then, then measure overall heat loss for the whole house over a period of time and figure an average U value given to total wall/floor/ceiling areas? ...or something like that?- 204 replies
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- heat loss
- ventilation
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(and 4 more)
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Heads Up! Ordering from Germany.
Onoff replied to ToughButterCup's topic in General Construction Issues
... und eine große Wurst? -
Another mad idea. But who can tell me what exactly this Plywood is?
Onoff replied to Patrick's topic in General Joinery
Buffalo board goes round the outside... Malcolm McLaren? -
Another mad idea. But who can tell me what exactly this Plywood is?
Onoff replied to Patrick's topic in General Joinery
James Latham at Greys stock it down here in 10x5 sheets. Buffalo board they call it. -
I've only had one beer so...The Ferrex multitool splits easy enough to expose the battery connections to tap off of:Pic of the pcb out of interest:
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A brief read here suggests you can get asset plans from one of their providers: https://www.scottishwater.co.uk/en/Business-and-Developers/Connecting-to-Our-Network/Pre-Development-Information/Asset-Plans £33 did I see?
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Being honest.....it's a bit long! Unwieldy?It does stand up on it's own though:Not sure if I'll get it wired up tonight though. Call of the mild, beer o'clock etc...
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I found a random spring and 4 screws. Seems like it might work. White probably not the best colour, it'll attract dirt like a DeWalt! This is PLA btw. Got some grey ABS now to try as well. You're supposed to cannibalize a Ferrex battery to get female connectors as I think I've mentioned but I'll likely just Stanley out where the 5 slots are and take two chunky wires soldered to the Ferrex tool. VID-20200108-WA0005.mp4
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I went into this knowing nothing other than I wanted a rainfall head as well as a handset riser. The mitred corner with the handset riser came later as did the decision to go no tray. The intent has always been to put a screen or pair of folding doors on the vertical mosaic strips that are strong points if it becomes an issue. The Union Jack tiled area is 1.3 x 1.3m, the first bits of pink tape. The reality is the water splashes a bit another tile over so to about 1.7m - the second bit of pink tape. To be safe 2m x 2m would be a good area in my opinion. So the seat of the wc gets a few splashes. After a shower we'll just kick the towel around the floor. We like it and it's manageable, all the time that is we're able to bend after our shower and squeegee the floor that is!
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My bathroom floor was very out of level , cracked and broken which is primarily why I dug it up. The bathroom was a poor extension on the original property with window and door positions changed and blocked up over the years. Even had render over wallpapered walls! The basic cavity walls of the extension are generally ok if a bit rubble filled. The ceiling joists thus ceiling sloped by around 6" to get the fall on what was originally a flat roof (since brought in under a hip). Plus it was out of square. There was always a bit of a "ramp" through the door into the bathroom through the original doorway in the circa 350 - 400mm solid walls. It was only when I knocked a new doorway thru (actually this was the very original doorway) that I found the bathroom floor, at worst was 60mm higher than the adjacent, original rooms. There was no turning back after that so I started digging! Insulation AND UFH was a no brainer. I think someone on here calculated I shifted about 7 tonne by hand.
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No.1 son was stationed on the stairs to relay "when" to SWMBO downstairs as she's a bit deaf and I was fed up shouting myself hoarse. We had the cloak wc as backup should the triple whammy approach have been necessary!
