Onoff

Down here was once known as Bidonville with good reason. Pretty much every dwelling was a shack. It was the done thing to put down a layer of crushed, broken glass pre any floor slab to discourage rats.

Fun facts on adder bites. We get quite a few around here: https://www.arc-trust.org/facts-and-advice-on-adder-bites

There are a few apps like Wifi Signal Strength Monitor you can get for your Android device.

Muddy the waters is probably about right! ? Arguably on a TT you'll have done all you possibly can by fitting a 100mA td rcd upstream (& DP 30mA rcbos downstream). What alternative is there? Imo always try and fit all the RCDs of the same make so you can take it up with the supplier/maker. Makes it easier to get a replacement to swap out.

100%. The 100mA needs to be time delayed to counter this.

RCD trip times can and do vary due to the mechanical mechanism. They can get stiff / gum up. It's why they should be regularly excercised by pushing the test button.

Why is everything on eBay, Gumtree etc, up North, so much cheaper than down here in the South? Looking at 2nd hand upvc doors. Tredegar, Barnsley, £50 - 60. Down here triple it minimum! ?

Yes, correct. Studs are off the wall by a minimum 5mm gap. This gap filled with foam. Studs affixed at 5 points with plastic packs to suit with a concrete screw. It's just interesting to see on the FLIR how much darker the stud positions are. Pics later hopefully when I get them!

Borrowed. £500 out of my budget, I have to hold a wet finger up to gauge temperature etc! I imagine I'd stick insulated pb direct to the old walls and avoid the studs altogether. This is the plan when I do the knock through on the lounge/diner. Between the two rooms there is no common floor / ceiling level and the walls are not in line either. Not overly worried about the bathroom as there's a grand plan to go EWI and bring the cold loft above within a new, thermal envelope. Saying that, in the bathroom what I've done was possibly the right thing what with squaring the room up, hiding pipework, making pockets and supporting the wall hung wc.

Had an interesting play last night with a FLIR C3 thermography camera. I knew the principle but had never played with one. Very interesting to see the "knock on" effects of my method of lining/levelling the walls even if expected. The vertical studs, sole and header plates show up as obvious "colder" bridges. I say colder as opposed to cold as I was aware of the potential for this just not to what degree and attempted, in my naivety to mitigate this. The studs are packed in between with PIR and all studs sit off the wall by a minimum of 5mm on packers with gun foam behind the studs. It certainly all helped but seeing the thermograpgy pictures it will influence my construction methods for future lining projects. By and large though the rooms heat signature looks like I thought it would. (What helps massively is the vapour barrier stopping draughts). FLIR pics to follow. Clever bit of kit. You can download snapshots then later drag your mouse over the "still" and see the temperatures wherever the pointer is.

I can see if there were any later failings of a TF kit then the supplier, straight away, would throw in some cock and bull story that this could be due to the adoption of a foundation / slab detail as not recommended by them. If nothing else just to muddy the waters and cast doubt. This is always a risk where there's split responsibilities.

Erm...no? Isn't a buffer rank a ready store of "heat"? The UFH loop(s) doesn't call for heat then suddenly heat the buffer tank up from cold...does it?

Microsoft

Stops the boiler short cycling afaik. If you were to take hot direct from a cylinder with a stat on it would keep calling for heat and firing up the boiler for a fairly small amount of water. In the case of UFH it draws hot from the buffer tank and the boiler only fires up when its "worth" doing so to heat up a chunk of water over time. ...I think.

+1. True selectivity, as it's now called (discrimination being very un pc ?) is achieved by fitting a 100mA time delay ("TD") RCD upstream. Like this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WYWRMT100slash2.html?

Search "black mould dementia". Mycotoxins etc are implicated in forms of Alzheimers/dementia from various studies. Close to home I see my own parents, Mum has mixed dementia (let's not mention the diabetes and double incontinence ? ). Up by the wall / ceiling junctions, in corners and behind hoarded stuff in various rooms are black spots. None of it helped by her obsession with closing and locking windows and doors then drawing curtains(again mouldy) and barricading everything. What little cleaning my father pays for (he has the means), doesn't touch the problem. I'm 100% certain that fitting housing with MVHR as a standard would alleviate a lot of this and very likely improve the occupants overall and long term health. To say nothing of improving the smell...

I wonder if Bedec Multi Surface Paint would be good for this? https://bedec.co.uk/bedec_products/multi-surface-paint/ I've only ever used their Bedec Barn Paint and it honestly covers like nothing else I've ever used. 1 coat of satin black and new scaffold boards were.....well black! Did 3 coats in all. You might phone them and ask. Who knows, you might get a sample pot!

Hold that thought ref Partclone. Try Clonezilla (that includes Partclone).

https://partclone.org/

Partclone?

I assume the OP would only be doing any sealing in thin isolated strips, where the walls he wants to stick down are?

Based on this I found I guess ordinary glass would be fine? http://tufwellglass.co.uk/view-article.html/33/is-toughened-gl

I think there's regs as to risk of where it is, like if a kid could run through a low window it needs to be toughened.

Clear as in you can see thru it! Patterned as in frosted or a leaf pattern like you'd have on a bog window. So you want clear for a start I imagine. Toughened glass shatters into a million tiny pieces if it gets broken. Safer to fall against (and clean up). Ordinary glass breaks into bfo sharp chunks.

Putting beads back in I used a piece of timber and rubber mallet.