Onoff

Yeah, its useless at stopping hydraulic oil leaking (not under pressure even). Just leave it for 36 hours to go off.

...so have you got a sealed system?

That's the roof make up? Would that not lead to cold bridging through the joists or is there extra insulation somewhere? Everytime I look at my abortion of a dormer I think about incorporating sound of your details when I get around to redoing it!

Hang on...the drill size for that plug is on the Geberit instruction sheet!

Usually there's a number in a circle on the plastic and that's the drill size for the plug.

Not quite sure of the wall section you refer to but there's various good reasons for not running cables in traditional cavity walls. To name but a few of the top of my head: - if the cable touches the outer leaf it can allow moisture to wick from there to the inner leaf under gravity. - assist vermin traversing the cavity -be later affected by existing or subsequent cavity wall insulation -be subject to thermal effects from said insulation -be subject to inadequate support and or sharp edges like ties Which is all well and good but there's loads of council built places around here with flush, steel CUs in the inner leaf and the cavities chock full of cable!

Aka chimneys! ? I've wondered on this myself, whether to put a good squidge of intumescent mastic around the t&e, singles etc where they come up out of cu into the steel conduit. Or maybe some removeable fire stopping would be better. You might recall any mods/runs I make now are run in galv steel conduit that pokes up into the loft. Eventually it'll all be run back to the (new) cu in lovely vermin proof steel!

Sure there's something about the "height" being taken as mid point of the switchgear. Something in Part M on it...I think.

You can put a good old insulated ("plastic") consumer unit in a fire resistant enclosure I think. It also applies to domestic only. Hager for instance do some lovely IP55 "plastic" cus with see through plastic doors for use say in humid environments like swimming pools.

I was mulling spring loaded doors with a "bonnet stay"... A fold down lid with a lip forms a handy tray imo for when putting the stickers on. Let's face it if you leave grommets out and vermin get in then metal CUs might as well be a wall mounted fire! ? Exactly happened at that stately home that went up. I think the investigation report was posted up on here a while ago? For anyone reading ALWAYS double check the FACTORY connections in a cu as well as the ones you make. No pun intended but they can be shockingly loose.

I was mulling spring loaded doors with a "bonnet stay"... A fold down lid with a lip forms a handy tray imo for when putting the stickers on. Let's face it if you leave grommets out and vermin get in then metal CUs might as well be a wall mounted fire! ? Exactly happened at that stately home that went up. I think the investigation report was posted up on here a while ago? For anyone reading ALWAYS double check the FACTORY connections in a cu as well as the ones you make. No pun intended but they can be shockingly loose.

Thinking about it most new ones have a metal cover hinged at the top so it'll naturally shut. That's to contain any fire. You have to wonder why 3P boards have doors that can be left open...

Don't know. Many 3P distribution boards I come across have side hinged doors but are lockable.

There is a school of thought that suggests heat dissipation from the breakers might not be as efficient with a domestic consumer unit if mounted vertically. Pretty sure there's a Voltium report on exactly this floating about somewhere. Commercial distribution boards tend to be much bigger. Also is the ON/OFF of the main isolator going to be as visible and as accessible as when mounted "normally"? Can't see the issue myself. I'd be printing new labels though.

Fugi kit everytime for me. I aimed for no bigger than the 5mm fillet.

825mm here from finished floor to top of basin. Good for me and I'm 6'4" and a bit.

Trying to get shot of me more like!

Mine is at nom. 445mm, floor to top of seat: Bit about it here, with other's thoughts, to save you wading through War & Peace: EDIT: Page 20 of W&P as I cant seem to link the page.

Didn't do anything on the 14th but to make it up to her I took her to a reclaimation yard on Sunday.

I'll measure later the finished floor to top of basin. Seem to remember similar dilemmas over how high to have the WC seat off the floor!

I think from memory I might have CT1'd the back of the basin to the tiles too...I certainly did the pedestal to the floor and the basin to the pedestal. That alone would probably hold things up! It was cleaned of flush with the Fugi silicone tool, then when dry gone over with a bead of Forever White.

Just a strong, waterproof wood glue https://www.toolstation.com/d4-wood-glue/p61864?

Tbh you could go 8 or 9x2 even. Try and avoid your sink fixing screws hitting the screws that fix the noggin. I went a bit ott and let the 6x2 into the studs. I did you'll note add a cheeky 2" onto the 6x2 (on the right hand side) which was a bit short! Everthing screwed and D4 glued.