Onoff

Do I recall on here a little while ago someone saying they used clear, scaffolding "tarps"? Super strong and obviously let light through. I might even consider sorting my roof if they're available big enough. Was thinking to put some eye bolts on the dormer faces to tie the tarp to.

Even a letter from them, confirming they sent the certs to A N Other online seller might be enough to placate the inspector.

Door Stop Direct will almost certainly have a copy of the cert they sent: https://www.door-stop.co.uk/Blog/Post/door-stop-u-value-certificates-validated-by-bre You might have to pay to get a copy mind.

Don't use what I have on my drive.....compacted fire ash, full of rusty bits of nail from the pallets/scrap wood the previous owners burnt. Always coming to the surface and INTO MY TYRES!

Similar I think to what we call crag round here.

No harder to do really. The little "round" will be a tad lower than the skimmed ceiling is all and need filling. No good now but one "cheat" I did, pre skimming, was to fit the round back in and level with the unplastered boards. Two little battens and one central screw to "clamp" it. I then squirted in no nails (or similar) into the gap and let it go off. Once the little batten was removed it's all dead level. The batten(s) become superfluous. I've done similar in a brick wall, filling an old soil pipe hole. Affixed with chemical resin.

With hindsight I'd have gone for a half or no pedestal. ...and maybe paid a tiler! ?

Full, to the floor, pedestal is a pita to clean around...apparently.

What about slate dpc?

My FiL who's 90 worked in the power station at one of the big local paper mills years back. The boiler (coal fired) flues back then were double skinned and filled with powdered asbestos. One day they dropped one off a crane hook filling the whole plant with dust. Thereafter he had to have a lung X-ray every year paid for by the firm until long after he retired. He's still around.

If worry more about posting this in multiple places.

Screw a little bit of timber across the hole, top side with a pb screw either side. Might want to pilot the wood first. Screw the removed "round" to that. Plasterer will skim over it.

I must really grate that his neighbour's roof is so much better suited to solar.

House wanting to extend to the right of the white van. Mr McLennans property...the gable he has his panels on faces due South plus those on the rear. https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@51.3647629,0.5120271,45m/data=!3m1!1e3

Better pictures here: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-7233275/Engineer-gets-neighbours-house-extension-stopped-landmark-High-Court-win.html Maybe he likes seeing his name in print: https://www.kentonline.co.uk/medway/news/-airport-leaflet-biased--5089/

I see his house has had dormer extensions yet he begrudges his neighbour doing similar. To$$er.

Where does the design come from? Not asking for names but is it an architectural practice or something? Someone obviously knows what they're doing. Or is the build method described in detail somewhere. Fascinated by the earth rammed tyres. ...and are the tyres all the same size?

It's an old cherry picker. As long as it's structurally sound I'd paint with whatever was kicking around. A 2 pack transport polyurethane would be good as it's pretty tough. Christ, I'd be using gloss!

The problem with powder coating is as you are finding out. Get a crack in the finish and water gets in and does its thing! Depends on the preparation too. I only ever powder coat steel that's been zinc flame sprayed or galvanised first.

Might have been powder coated originally?

No. Just treat it like an old car. Wire brush etc the rusting spots. Rust treat with whatever you like, Kurust, Corroseal Jenolite (my favourite) etc, prime and paint with Halfords finest whatever as near a colour match as you can. Watch for rust getting in between welded plates, that's the killer...literally. Some Waxoyl squirted in where you can won't hurt.

This too may help: https://www.grohe.co.uk/en_gb/uniset-distance-pipe-3-42766000.html

You need some space to maintain the boundary (fence) imo. Do you have front to rear access by some other route? Nice to be able to at least get a wheelbarrow through without scraping your knuckles.

Bit of a thread here:

Marine ply. Like the super expensive stuff I bought when I did the bathroom / bath deck and surrounds. No voids and just excellent imo. Is ply not better in bending than OSB3 of the same thickness?