Onoff

I imagine that a professional, medical opinion ref the benefit of the current unimpeded light situation might help your case? Maybe run it by the RNIB? Could you perhaps improve the artificial light situation in the room? There are "daylight" bulbs available. Maybe have them on an occupancy switch so they come on automatically.

Nearest you'll get to a ladder is one in your tights!

Standing on the edge of a big hole playing with a scaffold winch is still working at height.....possibly even more dangerous as you don't have to erect anything or climb for it to be a hazard.

If you were to lift a tile or two you may find the underlying roofing felt that should direct into the gutter has perished/split/sunk. Eaves protectors might help. Even a blocked downpipe/gutter can contribute to something like this.

The Crown Inn at Broad Hinton is the pub nearest to the geographical mid point between you and I. If I had @pocster's post code I could find the mid point between all three. Found a great app where you can put in up to 10 post codes and find the mid point. Made my Saturday night!

Thank Pixie for us.

That's 'cos you pi$$ sitting down! All the male users have their backs to the blind. ?

Treading on the shoulders of giants, you are!

I could have maybe "hidden" a joint behind the towel rail and had a deeper tile below the window? I find a lairy blind can help take the eye off of numerous cock ups...

Are you doing the vertical joints in line (like mine) or staggering them?

Start on the wall you won't see when you first walk into the room maybe, do your "training" on that?

Tbh lowering the CEILING 40mm was the option I perhaps should have taken! So many "ifs".....

Next time... herringbone!

Back on thread then. Reckon I know what not to do ref sliding gates and @Big Jimbo and others on here will add.

I believe that's where the phrase "I'd stick my arm in a sliding gate for a go on that!" comes from.

What gates?

A mate is mulling whether to cover his slatted gate with a bfo sheet of clear polycarbonate to reduce the guillotine effect. The trouble is, the surface will, at least on one side, still be "ribbed" and not smooth. That could catch somebody.

Damn you, I'm sussed! ? Indeed, in Dublin.

Have a look at Easygates for ideas. I bought my Chamberlain Liftmaster kit from them. https://www.easygatesdirect.co.uk/store/index.php They'll make them too: https://www.easygates.co.uk/gates-and-railings/ If you plan on doing your own gate then these also are good for an idea on tracks, rolling gear etc. (Local to me too). https://www.barrier-components.co.uk/? You can always stop the track where the pedestrian bit is. I've both made tracks from 20mm galv round bar and bought them pre formed. Whatever you do there's lots of H&S stuff to comply with to make them safe.

I'm particularly pleased with the way my gates coming along. Keeps the super car stable safe at least. SWMBO, pictured, is one reason all my jobs take so long... (Mods, any chance of a tongue in cheek emoji? ?)

What's the best method for dealing with neighbour's invasive ivy?

3.6m here clear span between brick pillars. If anyone wants to give me a Tesla to try can I have a Model S please as I'm not so keen on the look of the 3.....

Completely usual to have a pedestrian access facility whereby it only opens a fraction. From one of the remote fob buttons, a button in the house, on the intercom etc. (A nice touch I've done is to buy a Ford or whatever pushbutton to go in a dash blank and solder the wires to a gate key fob up inside the dash). An alternative is an opening gate within the sliding gate (with the appropriate safety interlocks etc). A sliding cantilever gate does away with the need for a gate track. The gate control PCB can be mounted down with the motor or in its own remote box on a pillar etc. Don't underestimate the amount of work involved. Plan the cable runs and get someone to double check them. Work out your cable runs to lights, sensors etc and don't skimp on the ducting. Think I've 14 cable entries into my box. Fit safety edges. Typical gate manuals attached (mine's a CB22) Look at the CB2 and it shows clear connections for the pedestrian function. Think how said gate will affect your post and deliveries. You can build a post box into the gate or pillars, fence adjacent etc. Yours will be likely finished before mine is btw. ? cb2.pdf cb22.pdf

Did cross my mind actually. Any pointers to what system?

From the YouTube videos I've watched you're supposed to have a "flat" piece of tile, sitting on the tiles either side, to support the muck before you fit the ridge tile. Looking here the muck is just under the long edges of the ridges tiles. Whether there's any mortar in the curved joint between ridge tiles is down to luck it appears! I wonder if I could use cloaking boards to support the mortar at the ridge tile joints?