Onoff

Just out of interest I scanned that tile with a barcode reader:

That just came across as 5m25s in!

Thanks. So what do I want for the 5:1:1/2 mix? Up until now I thought hydraulic but now not sure again! ? As I understand it the lime helps with flexibility so the mortar doesn't shrink away from the flints.

Ta. The bits you can't see are really well done! ?

Someone remind me...hydrated vs hydraulic lime. Can I use hydrated in place of hydraulic as it's all I can get locally! Thanks. https://www.selcobw.com/rugby-hydrated-lime-25kg

I cursed this day, all done with a template: Dry fit: Second time lucky:

No more than usual.

Just leave the adhesive off of the sliver so its clear of the wall. Just push down on the main bit of the tile. Go back later and squidge in something behind the sliver or through the grout lines even if it's something out of a gun. Also if you drill a round hole then make your L cut up to that hole, it's stronger and less likely to break that the sharp internal corner.

I guess a case of try it and see but I wonder how that mix will sit, colour wise with the 4:1 sand cement mix I used for the mortar?

Yes but then it's a lot easier to hide the f@ck ups with massive, textured tiles!

Thanks. Thinking some more I'll resin fix some M5 stainless studs in, sticking out for the coach lanterns, then just infill around them.

Hydraulic as opposed to hydrated lime mortar. Does anyone have any pointers for using this stuff for doing my flints? I haven't a clue! Do I add sand to it etc? Cheers. https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/cement/blue-circle-natural-hydraulic-lime-3-5-25kg/p/649341 Also, super daft question can I drill flints? Arrow head tile drill maybe? Whilst I've left cable ways for the mains feeds I was just going to drill and screw the coach lanterns on once done. I suppose I could faff and try and ensure the Rawlplug aligns with a mortar joint. Cheers

Quite likely, though I don't know what I'm looking for. I'd hoped they would show clear fossils but I can't see anything obvious.

I may have a crack over the long weekend at making a start on the flint infilling. I've trays and trays of flints like this. I mentioned somewhere previous these were collected by SWMBOs late cousin, a keen amateur geologist who saw something we guess in every piece. They'll be know as "Martin's flints". I've still yet to decide on the mix to set them in. One question is they've sat in water in the trays for a couple of years now. During extended dry periods this might have been stagnant. Some might now have a bit of "greenery" on them. Is it worth maybe giving them a quick scrub in a mild bleach solution before setting them?

It's important to periodically change your water / empty your tray I think or you're just trying to pump slurry eventually.

Only just thought but imo it's handy to get those 4 tiles behind the WC flat as that's where the pan will sit against. Mine wasn't perfect: The blue shims are 3mm. A definite rock on the level! When you put your pan on the wall do so with copious clear CT1 then walk away for 36 hours and don't touch. So said @Nickfromwales. All I can say is I'm sitting on mine as I type this and it's rock solid.

Just ordered one. Will hopefully use when doing my flint infills as I'll only be mixing small quantities at a time.

When you're lying passed out on the bog floor and come round you'll look up and see how rough yours looks!

Pizza boxes make excellent tile templates.

Just thinking how superb mine would have been had I cheated and used a tile levelling system. I needn't have had a dimmer switch & lairy blind then... ?

Wusses! Cut a proper circle: ?

Thought you said the public bogs were open again down there?

No, it's a c***. If you want to cut curves in tiles then the carbide grit edged jigsaw blades from TS are good and cheap as chips. A set of diamond tile files are great for taking sharp edges down. I see you're using a levelling kit, which one? Wish I had!

I thought @pocster had started this thread...

All sounds alright to me.