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Everything posted by Onoff
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For a change YES! The hinges need to sit dead centre of the rails, the end. First thing I'd project centre lines onto the door face in light pencil. Is the architrave on and fitted? I'd have left it off and set it back a bit from the jam so you don't have to chisel it out. Correct me if I'm wrong but your hinge has to go like this: (My hinge is bent to buggery btw): Now one problem you have is that I imagine like this sh!tty old hinge the countersunks are only one side? I'd not think too hard about this, just use round head screws where it attaches to the jam. They'll push into the door edge a tad, so what. See where they mark it and drill a little recess if necessary for each screw head. It's called compromise! How thick is the door plus the rails? Screws: What is the hole size in the hinge? Use a twist drill to gauge this. I'd wedge the door in with the right gap at the bottom so it clears carpet etc. Then slide the hinges up, opened like in my photo so they are on the centre line. Mark where they are going to go. Remove the door and cut out for the hinges. Ordinary hinges but principle's the same: When you mark out use a chisel like below: If you f*** up drilling the holes then PVA in matchsticks (more than one if required), cut off level and redrill ?: Having the screw heads all rotated the same way looks nice imo: Get on with it!
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+6910
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Were you shivering when you typed that?
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I cocked up height wise. It was near enough dead in line though. Had an anti siphon trap: Whoops! So I got one of these: Took the telescopic section and added to the anti siphon bit of the first trap. (Both traps McAlpine): Some foil tape to finish off on the black plastic pipe!
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Heatmiser Neostat v2 temperature sensor problem
Onoff replied to Ultima357's topic in Underfloor Heating
If you can CAD up a model and provide an stl file one of us can print a prototype.- 150 replies
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- neostat
- temperature
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I'd remove the plastic U trim and get a bit of iron on grey trim. Heat it up and apply with a wallpaper seam roller. Actually.....I'd remove the plastic U trim. Clamp a sacrificial board to the drawer back. Drill a tad deeper with the appropriate sized Starrett. Refit the trim. ?
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MVHR and open fireplace
Onoff replied to Ronan 1's topic in Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery (MVHR)
Unless you absolutely must toast marshmallows why not an electric, log effect stove for the traditionalists or an LCD flame effect heater? Different I suppose if your wood is free. -
His 'n hers Gary Glitters.
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Looks like the Noo Noo!
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Can't remember how I got mine on! Got a feeling I used a trolley jack. I know I had the pipes on the pan then fed them into the wall:
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First word "prisethem"?
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You going to replace those two butchered tiles? ?
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Been there, done that, plenty o' lube and remove the burrs.
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You want to be sticking that pan to the tiled wall with clear CT1 then leaving for 36 hours before planting your ar$e on it. Put the pan on, mask the wall then back off and pump in the good stuff. Tighten up and baby wipe the excess. Remove the tape. Go over with a silicone of your choice.
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Those bullets don't look like Geberit tbh? Milano? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Milano-Wall-Hung-Toilet-Fixing/dp/B07QX5VMJM/ref=asc_df_B07QX5VMJM/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309957120848&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10449256194739964687&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045888&hvtargid=pla-741154526128&psc=1
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Is the pan Geberit?
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Isn't there a big plastic assembly in the back of the pan? The screw on bullets go into that...
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Skip to 3m50s:
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That looks longer than might fit...
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By how much? Can you lower the U shape cutout with an appropriate diameter Starrett (for a neat job) and retrim it? Guessing not...or:knock up a dead neat 3 sided piece in melamine, screw from the back of the drawer.
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Nobody seen White Gold? (Netflix). Never a truer word said. I recall when having "double glazing" fitted to your house was a status thing. Windows being made deliberately undersized by a country mile to speed up the install. Bloody great gaps left covers with wood trim or upvc strip mitred bonded on. No expanding foam as that would have held the job up. The draughts around the outside made the windows probably less airtight that the old wooden ones taken out. Clearly it still goes on today. I've a number of ill fitting 2G windows to rectify as I go. The couple I've bought and fitted myself have been fitted with foam and/or Compriband. The difference is very noticeable in terms of draughts and noise reduction to those with giant gaps. See the trim at the top: 20mm gap and the top. Sides and bottom similar: Gap at the bottom when the sill was removed: Animals!
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My brother's a barrister and he charges travel time.
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It often comes down to a minimum hour each way (like we charge). There's still an element of travel, having to park, parking fees etc. How close exactly are they then? It's a two way street. Any professional service will charge high hourly rates etc. Useful for covering their various insurance premiums for when they do get things wrong! ?
