Onoff

That's very kind of you. Do you think it would work as this is what the proper thicket knife for the machine looks like?

I'm hoping I can convert a spare "cross piece" from my home made pipe decoiler to a 4 blade thicket knife: It's 3mm stainless with a 22mm hole in the centre. I might have to reduce the diameter then grind sharpened edges on. Be interesting if I can get the balance right... The original is 3 blades, 4mm thick... https://www.einhell.fr/shop/en-fr/thicket-knife-255.html

We'll soon find out! ?

No just ordinary Portland, got some in the end.

How soon can I take the form work off of this cap stone? Unscrew the 4 metal brackets holding the pipe square on then remove the corner angle irons...or maybe just take two sides off?

Hoping I haven't bought a pup...found this for £45 "incomplete": https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184864388736? Been after one of these 36V Einhell Agillo brush cutters for a while now, to run off off Makita batteries with 3D printed adapters like I do the 36V Einhell chainsaw (brilliant). Just missed out on them at £96, bare, on clearance at Machine Mart. Fingers crossed this doesn't get consigned to the "that wasn't the bargain I thought it was" box.

Yep. Cut down old SDS bit held against those metal straps. A few bubbles came up I was surprised at as the admix is a deaerator too. More seemed to flow over the edges than "compact" down into the mould. 40kg plastering sand 10kg cement 5kg hydrated lime 500g black mortar tone powder A litre of Everbuild Waterproofer in a bucket of water to mix it all up with. ...loads left over...whoops! A square of 25x25x2.5 galv mesh pushed in with a couple of old M16 resin anchor studs held in with a couple of nuts and plate washers, this just to give a bit of lateral security when it sits atop the hollow brick pillar.

Well I tried. God knows how it's going to turn out...

It's all here:

If it's just to get past BC you could always stencil it yourself... ? I know a man who does laser engraving/cutting of such things!

Seem to recall that @oranjeboom had some issues where some pipes popped up through the concrete.

+1. As I said earlier in the thread I'd be putting a thick membrane between this and the earth.

Sitting here drinking tropical IPA from Lidl waiting for the sun to go down a bit... The volume... I've a rectangular section 550x550x65 = 19662500 mm3 Then a square pyramid, 550x65 = 6554166.6666667 mm3 So added together a total volume of: 26216666.6666667 mm3 Converting to m3: 0.02621666666666670406 m3 to fill up I've now to convert that to 4:1:1/2 plastering sand/cement/lime in kg... More IPA whilst I think about it...

As soon as he said it I thought of you...

Nosey gits! ? Put a fake orange notice up that there's a bypass going through and that the canal's to be drained and filled in.

Stand is fecked and the drum needs welding...can't complain as it was free!

It's all good, got regular dust. I'm ready to go pretty much. Just got to lube the mould and find a mixer that works:

That'll be the AAs...

Find me one, over here, please! 550x550.

The write up for this says it can be used as a release agent. https://www.toolstation.com/action-can-dry-ptfe/p57723? Tbh I like the idea of vegetable oil, a bit more environmentally friendly etc. Once the caps are on I imagine it'll just degrade and wash off.

Finished my capstone mould...I guess. For tomorrow we cast! Made up a square of 15mm copper to give a drip recess. Currently got the copper glued to the timber with some blobs of CT1 and cable tied on whilst it sets: I'm going to put a square of galv mesh in halfway through the pour. Got one piece of 25x25x2.5 enough for just one cap. Then some 12.5x12.5x1.5, enough for two. Not sure if the smaller mesh will be strong enough? I was going to line the mould with say plastic sheet DPM. Just couldn't get it flat. Even tried ironing it with SWMBO's iron. I did put a fillet of silicone on all the internal edges and took it off with a 5mm radius Cramer Fugi tool. Guess I'll just brush the internal faces with vegetable oil? Seems preferable to engine oil etc. Another thought was lining it with duct tape.

Weird.....buildings I work on have different facades termed EWS1, EWS2......EWS6 etc. That's going back 20 years. Often exactly the same curtain walling system on different elevations. Never thought to question what "EWS" stood for but guessing something different.

Have you turned it over? ?

Only thing rising at your gaff will be the water level! And yes it'll still be higher than my bathroom temperature before you say that!

A strong, SBR laden cement/sharp sand mix will be pretty dark and maybe slate esque. A little infill bit I did: