Onoff

It's the sort of project that can be done on the cheap if you've a mate who runs a fabrication company etc or you can slip it through with another job. You need to be careful at the junction where the two 'Ls" meet so as to avoid sharp edges and corners etc.

A decent sheet metal place could fold you two L shaped skins, each having a face and an edge. Taken a bit further you could have apertures such as for letter boxes and hinges pre cut via laser or water jet.

They're are if it's me. My bathroom floor was like a billiard table.....before I tiled it!

How's the cabin and decking looking / standing up? Do you use it much?

I would only ever use a tile levelling system if and when I tile again.

Or...use full tiles for the bulk or the area then edge with a timber infill rather than cutting tiles...

Use mini guttering: https://www.guttersupplies.co.uk/mini-gutters/mini-gutters-for-sheds-greenhouses/

I stuck my tiles direct to marine ply with CT1 Grab n Bond:

@Construction Channel made his:

Cheers. I only need to make 2 caps so these would do: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Tarmac-Plastering-Sand---Major-Bag/p/131886 Plus some of my hydrated lime!

Would that mix work for gate pillar caps? I need to have a drip bead on all 4 sides and that looks to be a nice "fine" mix that'd take up the drip bead detail. Is washed plastering sand commonly available?

I'd have them on a pole in the garden.

HAVE!

Her's will be built and mine will still be on the drawing board!

Presumably there's no damp proof membrane under the slab? You'll need one under the "floor" which I would also insulate. What are the "concrete blocks", lightweight Celcon types or "dense" ones. Any idea of the kN rating of the blocks? You could drill down through the sole plate of the stud walls and resin anchor into the blocks (a lot less stressful on the blocks) or even run some stainless steel builders banding down the inside face of the stud walls and screw to the concrete slab.

Is it unadopted / unregistered land?

Why not just use the name and address of the person who built it? On the lines of "Dear council. I built this, I dare you to come after me!"

There's certain areas if you "grassed" your place would get torched if not worse.

Don't they have to pay back council tax? Also if it's been deliberately concealed by say straw bales, fast growing hedge etc isn't the CLEUD null and void?

Tbh I don't think it pays to adhere by the rules when every other f***er doesn't and gets away with it. You get to the "if you can't beat them" point.

Haven't you drowned in your leaky pit yet?

There's drone technology, Google earth etc if they were serious about enforcement. The tools are there, a bit like with our police force, border controls etc. I've not seen a ticket inspector on my daily train in over a year. Had two police walk through a train once in over 12 months. Rumour has it here that many years ago, the then (different) borough council got so fed up with illegal buildings they fired up some bulldozers and drove the length of the valley.

It's amazing how some councillors themselves play the system. There's an alleged local district one that did a barn conversion that sailed through then applied to do a second on the same (their) land. The application was miraculously "lost" then reappeared by some quirk. Such time had passed that he got it by default.

By more thoughts? Comment off another forum not to use any OPC: Hydrated lime will be fine for that job, use a stiff mix using sharp grit sand around 2:1. For a yellower look add some builders sand. Depending on exposure, lime will weather off over time and leave the grit showing if you avoid trowelling the joints smooth, use the edge of your trowel and just rake them. Put a board across the front and place flints against it to keep them from drooping, fill all at the back and around each flint. Do both all panels at the same time, alternating between them. By the end of the day, they will have gone off enough to remove the board and strike off the excess mortar. Lightly brush any nibs off the next day, but not too hard. Move boards up and repeat, by the time you reach the top course you will have got the hang of it and be able to place them in freehand. Most important thing it not to rush, nothing worse than watching it all flop onto the ground cos it's too wet to support the next course. It wouldn't hurt to use a couple of stainless screw in ties in each panel. Size the flints in proportion to the panels, you only need small ones for that, place them touching, as the joints get wider towards the front.

Geberit wall drain...you asked! ? I left a section out of the floor: The yellow bit is a removable, protective, temporary cover: The cover comes off to reveal a folded up membrane: Had to use s 2"/50mm euro adapter on the waste: Starting to foam in: I made a metal frame to falls: A special, heavy on the SBR, 10mm pea shingle concrete mix: Tamped to falls: The membrane folds out and gets tanked in: Novel and great fun to do. There's a good few install videos: