Onoff

Bump.

Bump.

Bump.

I think @Nickfromwales has tanked over "ordinary" pb?

I'm amazed by that. I thought it went on a bit "thin" when I did mine. I'd expected it to be a darker blue and less see through. I used the best part of 2 x 7.5m2 Aquaseal kits. Followed the instructions, coated horizontal the first coat, vertical the second. This was on the Aqua Panels: This was on the moisture resistant (green) plasterboard, maybe a bit darker?

This is the first bending project that folder I made was for, my second attempt at the gate video intercom shroud. I binned the first as I'd hand formed it, aka beaten it around wood and metal formers with a bfo hammer & wasn't happy. All stainless including the M4 rivnuts this time. It's still not perfect, one leg is a bit taller, I stick welded it again as I really struggled with my MIG yesterday but it'll be covered either side with the flints, lime mortared in, so most of it won't be seen:

3 coats of Sandtex microseal on the pillar caps over the course of the day. Not too bad except for a white line underneath where the white primer bled under the masking tape. Maybe touch that up later with an artist's brush: Not so sure it was in fact a good idea to prime first with the 1-2-3. Cleaning the brush/roller out I used the left over paint on a cast panel I made with a left over cap mix. No primer on that and the Sandtex went on "better". Was going to break this up for the hardcore pile but reckon we'll 3D print some house numbers, paint them and CT1 them on. Time will tell.

Gave the pillar caps a coat of Bulls Eye 1-2-3. Masked off as best as. Hoping that none has leached through onto the brickwork. Really hoping the neighbours don't think I read the Daily Star or whatever rag it is I used to mask: Black paint next. Also made a sheet metal folder o/of scrap, a couple of Range Rover valve springs etc so I could redo the stainless shroud for the IP video intercom.

You could have borrowed mine! Plug's a bit old...

Rush jobs the lot of 'em!

If you dig a hole make damn sure it's safe and that they can't fall down it/twist their ankle/have to take a precautionary trip to A&E/make a claim. Stick a board over it at least and take a picture if it's left unattended. I think with w@nkers like this you have to try and think ahead. Possibly even a polite registered letter / email informing them of what you're going to do They may be thinking that their erecting scaffold for inspection purposes could delay your build...which it likely would. First thing is the scaffold will go up wide enough to cause your builder grief in marking out etc. Then there'll be a delay in them taking it down.....

I'd leave the post in a container of whatever wood treatment you're using until it's ready to go in the ground. The post will suck up the treatment a fair way. You can buy Postsaver sleeves though not sure what size they go up to. Never used them myself. For example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Protectors-Postsaver-Protector-Repair-Sleeves/dp/B0957FPPB1/ref=asc_df_B0957FPPB1/?

I'd get the gates before fitting the posts.

Do you hear the thermostat click as you rotate it from min to max?

Is this not a full rewire?

That'll do for a quick drop in to the scrappy!

Back on this, maybe...for something to do! Primarily I've a jumbo bag of amassed hardcore to get rid of! (About 10 bags in reality but one in particular is annoying SWMBO!). Planning as above to extend the shed towards the pile of cuttings. First thing is to clear out the previously excavated area to the side. Fill with hardcore, whack and extend the base by however big I decide. I don't think tbh the current excavation is enough to double the length of the shed. Might have to get the digger back. Still can't decide on bricking, blocking or casting the new side walls. Whatever they'll be up against dirt. If I cast the slab then the walls how do I stop water ingress at the joint? Don't really want to do a water bar. This shows it before. Tbh I don't want to get too close to the old stable in the background: Maybe I go with just a small extension and stick the gardening tools in there... Then how to do the roof felt join, existing to new. At the mo it's a traditional underlay then green mineral cap sheet all put on with copious amounts of adhesive! Wtf didn't I just build a bigger shed from scratch instead of all this pi$$ing about? ?

1st fix the cables and back boxes go in. All gets plastered. Cable is coiled up and stuffed in the boxes. Plasterer will gleefully fill these up with his goop for you to dig out later. You either accept some digging out or you can get various posh little inserts to protect the back boxes or even make your own. I've seen the cable ends wrapped in cling film and even tin foil! Cling film isn't a bad shout if you've cables poking out the ceiling. Gets "tricky" when you move away from the traditional single centre light in each room to multiple downlighters. Probably better then to plaster then hole saw out and fish the cables through. That needs planning! Tbh a good spread should cope with whatever but they prefer a clear run. 2nd fix sockets and plates go on. Then it all gets DEAD tested. Hugely important step as opposed to banging them all in and switching on! Dead testing should show up any faults long before power is applied. Use a reputable sparks for a start. Stick to safe zones for all your drops. Even mark on the plasterboard the safe zones if you want. It's not unheard of but rare to get a "dodgy" cable off a reel of twin and earth. So buy decent cable. Damage is usually down to a nail, screw, pinch, plasterers trowel. Then it's down to how it's been run as to whether it's easy to replace. Running in plastic conduit in the walls is dirt cheap. Through joists then keep it up out of the way of plasterboard screws hitting it, (50mm). Imagine if it would "pull through" easily later on. Even if plastered in at worst it's going to be one run that might need digging out...or one ceiling coming down! ?

Cheers. I'll go equipped then! Just found another 10kg of copper and some more brass.

@MikeSharp01, evening. I'm planning to weigh in my lead, copper and brass tomorrow at that place opposite Tesco. Reckon I've 25kg of lead, 16kg plus of copper and a bit of brass. I believe it gets paid into a bank account. Will I have to take/show any identification? Cheers

My Evolution electric whacker seemed to cope OK with the hardcore I graded through a piece of mesh to give 40mm down to dust. That's only 5kN from memory. Saint-Nazaire was a good sub base btw...I'll get me coat!

Wasn't someone recommending the veggie Fray Bentos somewhere?

The tins they came in used to make ideal rain covers for motors fitted externally where the fan cover points up.

You're a lone voice I think. The heights are great imo and very practical. I tried to get my parents to let me rewire their place but my Dad wouldn't hear of it because of the mess etc. Now, riddled with arthritis he has to over reach down to plug things in. He broke his elbow on his dominant arm and can't lift it too high so the too high light switches are a pita for him. Better a child can reach the light switch than stand on something and fall off. I moved a light switch from behind a door in a rental to just inside the door and put it at 1200mm. The incoming tenant said their young child was over the Moon as they could now reach. The novelty soon wears off. Any new socket / switch I put in here is at the "new" heights.

Get yourself a couple of bevel gauges in different sizes, for this sort of thing for sure. Very useful.