Simplysimon

just updating as @readiescardsis waiting to see! good warranty though, http://www.msn.com/en-gb/money/companies/tesla-solar-roof-prices-come-in-cheaper-than-some-had-expected/ar-BBAZrw8?OCID=ansmsnnews11

also good for polishing the car

i don't understand why option #3 is discounted, door width at the bottom is the same, therefore same swing and space. making a timber door that shape is no problem.

bloody good question!, he went for slab first but massive spec and i said no.

to be fair, to get u value i was looking at 160mm tetris with 75mm on top, that price was only for insulation!

tetris - £40/m2 supply and delivered

very similar story here, too much to dig out and fill so beam and block u value of 0.09 and ufh engineer - underbuilding #2.pdf

@roger440 i had thought of doing this, however, if you have no control as to whether the other house uses bleach/anti bac fluids, the treatment plant ends up stuffed so going with one plant one house

if you build with a timber kit you would be able to make the wall thinner and have the same amount of insulation. i notice your neighbour has attached a glass roof to party wall to cover the area between wall and extension.

they have it in store most of the time, certainly at the moment

that was their idea, usual full garage but old, done and needing replaced. empty, demolish, rebuild and refill

people round the corner had to demolish garage first before new one was built as planning said 'you may decide to keep the old one' admittedly pp passed

'fraid not, the lining is flat as normal, the door is hung as normal and then the stop is scribed, if necessary, to the door, especially to old doors. the stop is then dressed flush with the lining and the facings/architrave fitted as normal with a margin/list. the problem with rebated linings is that the rebate is normally the same depth as the door, this means that when hanging the door there is no clearance on the hinging side. as per below the beauty of a full stop is that when painted there is no joint line liable to cracking to be seen when the door is closed as the facing/architrave covers it. edit - this also means you can, a mentioned previously, rebate the linings to slightly more than the thickness of the door, insert the matching door material to make the lining look to be solid in that material.

linings, a thinner version of standards to which a door is hung. normally linings in stud work (modern) and more likely to move. full door stops go from door, when closed, to facings on other side of wall, far nicer looking. planted stop normally approx. 30-40mm in width. margin or list, the distance the facing/architrave is kept back from the edge of the standards/lining

@Crofter, as with my question to @jamiehamy, are you doing full or planted stops? if using full stops then i rebate standards to a width greater than the thickness of the door to ensure stops cover join and to a thickness to allow the list to show and the facings to cover that joint. this allows facings, standards, door and stops to be in the same material.

brick or block, then these make getting things straight easy http://www.fischer.de/en/Product-Range/Frame-fixings-Stand-off-installation/Spacing-screw-ASL @jamiehamy, are you doing full or planted stops?

@AliG our house is a wimpey, built early 60's and has these, one in each bedroom, sitting room and dining room. no gas fires nor chimneys other than a coal fire in the sitting room. windows would have been wooden casement originally without trickle vents. the vents were for ventilation though totally unnecessary with the other draughts as opposed to air bricks hence the reason i've taped over them. would agree with questioning the age of the house though, surprised it's not timber kit if 20yr old

two points, cavities shouldn't breathe and nor should they be bridged. our house has ventilators in the walls and a roll of sellotape has stopped a lot of draughts! that said, the house is about 50yrs old and has plenty of ventilation, (draughts) to compensate for the removal of the ones in the walls. as for the bubblewrap, a handy repository for waste material and a way to partially insulate the cavity do you have any other draughts to allow ventilation or trickle vents in windows. being double blockwork, no vapour barrier and not very airtight? so air bricks may be overkill.

i'm presuming the wall will be clad in ply? and therefore be structural. if so the calcs would be for that height which could make it more awkward. is there a reason not to run the rafters in one length rather than bolting short ones together? i see no reason why it shouldn't be lowered other than inconvenience to se and more expense! as with @ProDave, if the windows haven't yet been bought, go for longer ones.

hi @dogman, what are the clips for holding bottom edge? is it due to being laid on battens?

@Redoctober, one of the biggest problem we will see in the future is 'fairly well' insulated and airtight houses with no proper ventilation, poor design with cold bridging and may as well throw in poor build quality! in fact many children are growing up with ailments due to this. if you have a warm house and very little ventilation, condensation will go somewhere, usually a cold corner with no air movement. new houses with trickle vents will not be sufficient to do the job properly. it is fine if the windows are opened in all seasons, though the majority of people won't open windows having paid to heat the house, you may be different. it may cost more to fit an mvhr, however, the house will be properly ventilated and minimise problems in the future.

are you slating onto counterbatten? as this is one point i've yet to work out, normally slate onto sarking but going with egger board for air tight

theoretically, the outer skin is only there to stop water hitting the inner leaf, as well as providing some structural strength. if the ties are clean and no mortar snotters then bridging the dpc shouldn't be a problem especially as the render is a third layer of protection, though please refer back to first word! if the reason for doing this is partially aesthetics then the brick/blockwork below dpc could be coated and the bellcast brought down sufficiently to cover/hide join. again this is different if ewi is fitted as this should cover down to foundations to minimise cold bridging and then coating to ground level can be done, though still see first point.

welcome, if you build the first, move in, build another, then, as it's your only house, sell it and move into the second. that way there will be no tax to pay.

thanks @Bitpipe, i did a search prior to posting and noticed the other systems, but was more interested in paul, thanks for the heads up for herb and bpc.