Simplysimon

jigsaw with downward cutting blade set at the angle? alternatively, a hacksaw blade in a handle. personally i'd just use a panel saw if not too tight a curve

put the plumb bob in a bucket of water when windy. string will vibrate but won't swing around

i wouldn't be doing the joists like that, horrible cold bridge. put them in hangers on the inside face. as to a vcl if you use something akin to smartply propassive, it is effectively puncture proof, more expensive than poly sheeting but i would say considerably better.

new council housing in york with some self build as well https://www.msn.com/en-gb/news/uknews/this-is-the-everest-of-zero-carbon-–-inside-yorks-green-home-revolution/ar-BB19GYj4?li=AAnZ9Ug

they'll be covering their backsides in case something blows/has blown and you hold them liable and claim.

as the vapour resistance is greater, this does not mean the air tightness is reduced. good vapour resistance can be achieved in a number of ways, parge coat on blockwork, polythene sheet on timber kit or as i'm doing https://mdfosb.com/en/smartply/products/smartply-propassiv these prevent the vapour from entering the insulated area of the wall. on the outer skin of the kit i have https://mdfosb.com/en/medite/products/medite-vent which is vapour open, this allows for vapour to leave the kit, effectively allows the wall to breathe. the heat is kept in by the cellulose insulation and as the smartply is vapour resistant and all joints are glued and sealed there are no draughts, as it provides the air tight layer as well and therefore little loss in heat. contoversial! if the kit is built quickly there should be very little movement in the i beams due to the majority being osb and a 350mm i beam isn't going to flex much, so i wouldn't think very much less stable than concrete. it has been observed that a good deep layer of cellulose is eerily quite inside a house due to being pumped to a compaction of 55kg/m3. as for negative effect on landfill, you are looking at a natural material apart from the formaldehyde glue which would decompose over time as opposed to concrete which has a very high co2 impact in its manufacture and will not break down though could be recycled if it didn't have another potentially non recycleable product such as polystyrene attached to it. the environmental impact of production and end of life materials are not good as opposed to timber and paper. as to costs, i haven't compared to concrete. partially controlled draughts what is internal insulation? and all houses will overheat depending on design. insulation is there to stop the heat entering or leaving the building. in most instances in uk, leaving, though down south it is becoming equally important to stop it entering. if you have a house with sooper dooper levels of insulation which has a high decrement delay, this can all be wasted if you have huge amounts of normal 3g glazing to admire the south and west views as the house would potentially overheat due to solar gain. i'm sorry, you need to do a lot more research before asking questions like that. and that.....

walls and roof with service cavity no issues with drilling

build with i beams and not timber, more stable, less weight and less timber, win, win, win.

easily sorted and with the brucie bonus of less cost, buy fixed glazing.

covered above i'm sheeting mine internally with propassive osb and sealing all joints so no membrane, no failure also a service cavity.

timber kit is a quick build method to get to the watertight stage, can be built in in parts in a workshop, knocked down, taken to site and erected or stick built on site with a tape, chopsaw and a nailgun. 350mm blown cellulose gives you 0.1 of a u value and is a heavy build due to weight of i beams and cellulose pumped to 55kg/m3. i do appreciate it's not as heavy as blockwork but when you glue the sheeting to both faces inc. joints and seal around windows and to floor, you should, as previously stated by @Nickfromwales, easily achieve a low air pressure test. there is also evidence of very good sound reduction with cellulose. no gaps/cold bridges in the filling due to being blown under high pressure. oh, and you can insulate it yourself. low carbon as well as it's fixed in the timber and paper, board material.............. what are the benefits of blockwork/icf? ☺️ any idea which method i'm using?

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hi mark, welcome to the forum, it looks like it's going to be a chunk of a building and will need quite an amount of insulation. having 250mm of concrete is good but also a big heat sink. i would be looking at building inside the steel if possible to avoid the cold bridge and if you attach to the steels for a floor then something akin to armatherm will break your cold bridge.

it could be argued that was how the photo had been taken

drop small stones down chimneys and listen for them landing, will obviously need two people!

started early on the drinkies did we?☺️

sorry, should have put the sarcasm in inverted commas or bold ?

wow, someone saw a market and invested, hope it pays off. a lot better than an oik with a pressure washer walking up the roof and firing it under the tiles, but still.......

fair shout, the difference between a ridge and a ridge beam

the ridge doesn't do very much, if you didn't have it and placed each rafter opposite the other, meeting at the plumb cut, would the roof sag? nope due to triangulation. the only reason the roof is sagging is the the walls are moving outwards. are you putting in joists to sheet ceiling? if so you could do a pole plate roof, best roof design you'll get.

went for RAL 7033 which was supposed to be cement grey and looked grey on the screen, they arrived as a green window. we like them and have been asked by a few people about them. retuned the screen colouration and it now matches. get a sample in your hand prior to ordering.

hi, normal frame or higher spec?

yup, quietly screw his doors shut the previous evening.

don't bother with windows, switch on a light

not something you want to start doing, as @nod says k rend dash will be self coloured you can use any size stone from whin chips (small) to larger granite or a smooth one like a dry dash. if you intend to paint it go for a smooth stone, you really, really don't want to paint whin...