Simplysimon

forgot you don't board roofs down there

not necessarily, it also depends upon how close you will sit to the windows. a poor u value window/door will be/feel a cold area whereas a better specced one will be more comfortable.

depends on whether the roofers have left enough projection or not 😡

a lot depends upon width. here majority are 35mm but 826 go up to 40mm

what are you doing for ventilation?

people want a WOW factor in their house, it's imperative to impress relatives/guests/friends you know. increasing the thermal values of a property isn't seen so doesn't impress. priorities all wrong, it's the throwaway culture unfortunately it includes energy to allow the purchase of materialistic 'stuff'

with an external air kit the fire pulls in what it needs from outside, without it air will be pulled in from outside through all the leaks and draughts due to house not being airtight thereby potentially cooling other areas of the house. buy the kit!

less than 5kw means you don't need to have supplementary air into the room. as you have external air being fitted this won't apply. the only consideration is to not oversze the fire for the room as you want it burning hot to keep flue clean

just get them to fit to standpipe on the boundary. leave all other works until this is done otherwise they will want to check all details you have done and basically it's non of their buiness. once they are away, remove standpipe and coonnect to house.

or are they doing it that way (incorrectly) for ventilation?

same here, fabricator installed for us. he came out measured the site and se gave the heights.

whay size of fire in what size of room? doesn't affect the liner, just curious

the windows and fascia seem to be in an anthracite colour, what about running the guttering with 8 x 90 deg bends around the soffit in towards the windows and run from the middle to both ends. the size of the windws would mean no clips would be required at that point and only needed on the internal sides of the soffit. also having them in an anthracite colour would help them to blend in at the windows.

a friend who worked for BT many years ago asked why they were putting a cable into a garage and was told it was a house foundation. it was for a 'box company' so understandable.

@PeterW you have the patience of a saint 🤣

this https://mdfosb.com/en/products/medite-vent is the same as egger this for internal osb with integrated vcl https://mdfosb.com/en/products/smartply-propassiv and this shows after being blown https://www.lathamtimber.co.uk/products/panels/osb/smartply-osb/propassiv @Patrick and myself used this system. service cavity on top of propassive

come on guys, they have at least cut quite neatly and close to the pipe.

ok, a few of us here are as well, a 350mm I beam kit wall, 600mm c/c studs, mdf outer skin (breathable), osb internal with service cavity and blown cellulose is the way i've built as well as @Patrick and possibly a few others with variations and can be stick built on site. would seem to be a lot easier than your method. keep it simple

https://www.trada.co.uk/news/the-structural-timber-engineering-webinar-series-returns-in-march/ these are free to sign up for, could be of use to some

ahh right, so it's the plumbers fault for not putting drain in the middle 😉

i'm afraid i don't like the small cut on the right hand side any reason for not starting at the centre of the wall?

so why not go a 245-300mm i beam wall and build onsite?

for what? strength or insulation, strength yes, insulation just about adequate.

thought you had used the walk on glazing in your signature? 😎

+1 to @ProDave suggestion, we used 350mm I beams for walls, roof and floors with blown cellulose, u value if 0.11