SuperJohnG

It's not piped yet. I didn't know you couldn't use weather compensation when heating the buffer?

I'd followed a topic for a specific reason as someone gave a good hint on controlling their UFH buffer - I think it was just that in addition to the call for heat from the buffer (turning on the ASHP) they also wired the call for heat from the UFH that way the buffer wasn't getting heated by the ASHP all the time if you weren't using the heating. Despite going through18 pages of followed content and using every search term I can think of ..I can't find the post. So two questions: Does anyone know of the post? Secondly how do you control your UFH buffer?

No IVAR blending set, it includes a grundfos pump

Dear lord....I'd totally forgot about this thread. Wunda manifolds in place have been for nearly two years...I was about to but the pumps etc from wunda. I assume I literally buy an IVAR one and hey presto I've got everything I need?

Went perfect and looks mega. (Don't have a pic to hand). You can look on out Instagram self_build_ayrshire I used knauff aquapanel boards and TC15 k rend silicone render. It was expensive but I think worth it. I paid approx 50 sqm to have it rendered labour only. Was 25 quid per sqm for material. Those prices do not include the knauff boards or screws.

@Adsibob did you put in cisterns which were OK for rimless toilets? I have grohe rapid sl cisterns but its a lottery if you get spillage (which i absolutely dont want) when you flush. I don't need rimless but seems to open up more options

No this is the normal now. 50p/kWh and the government brings it back to 34p.

@JohnMo @ProDave @Russdl @Nickfromwales @jack I thought you were talking just pure electricity costs. I was also forgetting about the cop, and solar gain...oops. It's not capped imo at 50p/kWh..the government is paying the gap between the 50p/kWh and the 34p and that will end at some point I think. I'm with Octopus standard variable at the moment I've attached my tariff at the moment. We have achieved 0.8 ACH at the mid build stage I hope to be even closer to 0.4 when they do the completion test. It's a SIPS house with 50mm added internally, no thermal bridges nearly and our roof is 270mm thick and walls 220mm thick.

The ins and outs of the VAT reclaim I'm fine with. I am possibly going to buy some tiles off a local company but albeit they will list everything they give and the total price I'm not sure what the HMRC need. The company will give me a receipt and a contract but don't break out the VAT costs, which is no hassle and I can add that to part E of the vat form. I will pay 50% on order via bacs, then 50% upon receipt via their card reader. Will the HMRC be happy with a receipt and a contract? The company normally does bathrooms up as supply and fit redecorating never really new builds. Ive tried to call HMRC but was on hold for nearly 30 mins and I had to go

That's 24 quid a day at the current rate of 50p / kWh. That's a lot of money..just in electricity. I hope the numbers are much less in mine when I finish.

No they don't...the rubbish modern renders do. I have TC15 krend silicone. TC stands for thin coat and 15 refers to the aggregate size which is 1.5mm in the top coat. It looks nothing short of brilliant. Don't skimp on this. Decide which render you want and use the approved applicators.

Burton roofing do Cupa - which I believe is the best Spanish slate. They also now own Burton roofing.

I've got 350m2 of expensive Cupa slates, put on sarking boards (scotland) by my roofers. All done with aluminium nail and looks great. I wouldn't worry at all about aluminium nails. I also have a SIPS roof. Sips panel, breather membrane, 25mm battens, 22mm sarking boards, second breather membrane then slates. I've also got the over fascia vents, and ridge roll to allow airflow underneather the sarking.

I did but God knows I'll need to look through my pictures for them. I used the cedral mesh at the top. Great stuff. I bought the Robinson stuff, but didn't use much at all. Just used the cedral. If you're going to buy the Robinson stuff give me a shout as I'll probably get rid of mine (along with lots of other build stuff which I eventually plan on getting rid of. Lol)

A plinth in a bathroom, which is tiled, sounds like a weird idea. Just tile it and don't let it stick out.

Thanks. Looks not bad. Do you turn it on a lot? I seen one for 700 quid which looks OK but there are some nice ones around 1k-1.2k

@Happy Valley what did you eventually get? Doing exactly the same as you.

I kept our towels in our last house and our caravan bathroom (which gets uber steamy) in the bathroom. Never noticed them damp.

No photos showing?

I've not fitted it yet. It'll definitely support 2 layers its fine in the British gypsum video.

No just RB then double boarded.

I'm using 50mm APR (acoustic partition roll) in all studs after seeing on here not to touch each side. Soundbloc on all important walls between bathrooms and bedrooms. On all ceilings from lower floors I'm using Soundbloc 15mm then normal 12.5mm pb minimum 100mm insulation. On my main lounge which has the master bedroom above I'm using two sheets as above plus mounting the pb on resilient bars plus 100mm APR. As said I'd rather use more on a specific room and be happy I've done as much (within the bounds of normal) as possible. Forgot to add I got 100 sheets of 2.7m high soundbloc for 4 quid a sheets. That's why I'm using so much.

If its shows the vat detailed out in a quote then you know the price. Regardless of that if is supply and fit it should be zero rated, only when it is supply only should VAT be added at 20%. In all cases the invoice has to say your name and address.

I have a sips house, and an insulated foundation from Kore. No brick or block here just a ventilated cavity. You have a sole plate (as do all timber frame houses) then a locator plate, which is just like a sole plate but smaller and allows the sip panel to sit over it and onto the sole plate. You add 200mm high of 25mm pir around the junction between insulated foundation (as per the drgs) and soleplate and Bob's your uncle. This worry about interstitial condensation is overthought. All houses that have a wooden sole plate this applies to. Even if water was to get in and sit at the soleplate or have condensation - it's treated timber.

The wind down legs are just to steady it. My static is up on 8 (albeit should at at least 12) static Jack's. I jacked it up with a standard bottle jack till it was high enough and levelled it. It's on 400mm of type 1, then some wooden pads then the static jacks