SuperJohnG

We are in the house, and operating fine and inaubidle (even at night) - even though the flow rates are high (more than required at boost) at trickle. Going on using the SPI. If we use 30% of the total figure of 660m3/h. 198 m3/h that's works out to be just around 2kW/h per day. 70p/day at 35p/kWh.

A smart meter would do - however despite having a smart meter they can't connect to it because of the house/ where we are. Hence I'm looking for a basic item to tell me current power consumption (electricity only) I have seen the Shelky and the Emon unit from the openenergy guys in Wales. I want to do zero messing around or logging etc. I just want to get a unit and get a display that'll tell me current consumption for the whole house. The display could be one on the unit or a nice to have would be an app I could look at on my phone. Any recommendations for the Shelly/ Emon units? Or alternatives.

Shown below is the datasheet for my MHVR (which I'm in the middle of balancing). I'm trying to work out very simply electricity costs to run it.. If we go on max power (100% speed) it can consume 360W, which is 8.64kWh per day, 3153 kWh/annum. At say 35p/kWh thats £3.02 /day. However mine will run at roughly 30% speed on trickle (thats as low as it goes I believe on trickle). Arbritraly thats £1 per day, . Thats seems quite a lot? Now the AEC (Annual electricity consumption) on the datasheet says 2.65kWh/100m2. We are 265m2, hence 2.65x2.65 = 7.02kWh/ annum. 1051kWh (30% of 3153) vs 7.02kWh is a massive difference? Where am I interpreting it wrong as the AEC surely can't be that low. Also it does say the fan speed is variable, but if its running at 30% it's running at 30% regardless of velocity at each inlet/outlet?

Someone doesn't know what they are telling you. You have to raise an order with a supplier to get OR to put in a line. As above, phone back and raise an order for a service with BT or whomever.

I've 100m back from the pole to the plant room, no limit on the line length like the electricity. Fibre I'm not sure but I don't envisage that distance being an issue. Your entitled an exemption up to 3500 quid after that you need to pay. But OR have a responsibility to give you a line.

Never too early! 12 months after I raised an order I only got poles put in last month, and then I pulled the cable to my property but still not got a master socket. Through the slab yep. Tale a duct righrmt back to where the base of the pole will be.

600mm centres you need dwangs, 400mm you don't need dwangs.

Don't stress get standard treated battens at 47 x 50mm. As long as they are treated for external use..

We bought a while back, from moda. Aluminium framed L shaped set, seems good quality. It has a 7 year warranty. It was 1350 quid. Seems like good stuff so far. https://www.modafurnishings.co.uk/ellis-corner-sofa-set?color=navy

I've a rural property and I have 3 x reolink go cameras with solar panels. In summer you don't need to charge them in winter every 6 or 8 weeks you do. They have 4g sims and work quite well. I'd recommend them.

Pretty much all suppliers and installers are scared specifying ASHP and end up with them oversized. Vailliant wanted me to get 2-off 7kW units cascaded based on 45w/M2 I only need an actual 5kW unit to meet my heat demand but putting in a 7kW this week so my reheat times are better.

Thus is exactly the thread I was looking for? Thanks. So what did you do in the end @JamesPa? I've got to make the choice of glycol or antifreeze valves in the next few days. Anyone else any input?

It's very quick. But defo do outside or wear goggles it's a bastard when it gets in your eyes

We've got those for our caravan...look fine to me! That's good advice and also what we are currently looking at. Not rusting is right up there on the list!

As the title says...we don't want to buy shite. You can still pay 1000 quid and buy rubbish. Pictures are great.

Not quite, much closer but the physical side (which is all my stroke was) I'm still working on. But I've went from not being able to walk myself to jogging myself now, but still far away from my targets.

Don't discount doing it yourselves (no one will care as much as you guys do) even though you've got a young family. I've got a 9 Yr old, 4 Yr old, both with full time jobs and we are about 4 weeks away from moving into our 300sqm SIPS house. And to boot I had a stroke in August and spent 6 weeks in hospital. Anything is possible. But absolutely a fabric first approach. We were heating our full house (which has vaulted ceilings) with a 1.5kW oil filled heater. It was a balmy 13 degrees inside when it was -7 outside.

Yea but their warranty is return to base. That's just not feasible in my mind.

Thanks for this @JohnMo. We have 250mm in our ring beam and 150mm concrete throughout on 200mm spacing so I think we will be very slow. The thermostat we have is the Wunda one we bought with the UFH however I think for the WC we need Vaillant unit the Sensocomfort? Edit: Oh I didn't notice the reply usually I do so apologies for coming back so late

Thanks. Think we are going to go with the 7kW unit.

@Dan F what did you get in the end? In reality the 7kW unit will be more than enough. But unsure if a rotary piston is better than a scroll type?

Thanks @JohnMo Vaillant size based on -3.9 degrees. So the 16.6 figure would be pretty close. The cylinder reheat times are the reason I was going to get a 10kW unit. How do you work those out? We actually have a borehole and 1000l storage inside the thermal envelope, so our water is in reality preheated before it goes in the cylinder. Even if we allow say 15 degrees the water will be preheated to. We have an electric fire with a 2kW heater which would cover the -20 scenario. We are going to go no buffer I think, and run weather comp so we can get that highest possible COP. If we run the floor at say 27 degrees or so with weather comp does the ASHP shoot for a low temp based on the feedback from the room stat? I assume I'll need the vaillant unit?

@JohnMo I've been doing a lot of reading on here. I think I am now not going add a buffer, I get it now as we will have one single zone and the volume will be about 70l which is more than the defrost requirement. Going on 20W/m2 Vaillant are saying a 7kW unit will do and that will provide 136% of the heating requirement (5.14kW at 100%) I was going to get a 10 kW unit which would provide 195% of the heating requirement. However I'm slightly concerned I might be oversizing the unit? It's only for a few days we get down to -10 most of the winter we are around 0-10 degrees during the winter. Is it detrimental to have an oversized unit? Now I'm guessing at 20W/m2 but if it was 30W/m2 I'd need 7.8kW of heat input. A 7kW unit might not be big enough? I'm trying to decide if I need a 7kW unit or a 10kW? So I can order it. Also a realistic W/m2 value for this house? Vaillant want to use 45W/m2 (in the absence of an MCS installer doing the heat loss calcs) which I think is way too high. Using Jeremy Harris spreadsheet I get roughly 13.5W/m2 on say a 0 degree day, 16.6W/m2 on a -5 day and if we go extreme to -20 day I need 25W/m2. We are a SIPS build with 50mm PIR internally removing mostly all thermal bridging and our mid build air test was 0.8 ACH. In reality using the average values for Jan which is the coldest month in my location (west coast of Scotland) we only need 9.4W/m2! In reality in writing this I have probably come to the conclusion the 7kW unit would be ideal! Does my maths make sense to everyone? Someone agree so I can order the ASHP and no buffer.

I didn't add solar panels at the time as I had lots going on and I regret it. It'll never be cheaper than now, do it.

It'll be the 5kW x the COP for that temp won't it? So pessimistically says its 2.5 that'll be around 1.5hrs?