SuperJohnG

A warranty is a warranty I'd have thought. More expensive as its retrospective, but if granted then its a tick box exercise surely for the lender, provided its one they accept?

I thought the wf100 ot whatever itnis was the right stuff to get. I was hoping for the dish position to be a final position rather than temporary. I.e. if it can be mounted on a pole, put it there then run the cable to the caravan but also sky to leave 30m of extra looped so I can reconfigure it once we move into house. But maybe I should still do that but run a better cable internally? Or run better cable right out to the sky dish?

What is that dish? I'm happy to have Sky come out, but will only allow then to put where I want. If they don't want to do that then I'll just stop the job on the day. The local sky guy is a friend, so I am hoping he gets the job. I won't actually be getting connected up to sky in the house only hardware installed at the moment. But might get them to fit dish, then I'll get cable runninto the caravan for now, but right them to add 25 metres onto cable so i can run it unto house when we move in. So wondering if I should fit a pole and then ask them to put it there.

I have sky coming out in a week to mount a sky dish so I can run cables at first fix. I added a pattress in the wall as its a rendboard with cavity so can easily mount the dish. Below is a picture of the gable it will go on, but it's annoying me that I'll spoil the look having a big dish added there and also put holes in my silicone render. I'm now toying with adding the dish in my boundary the other side of the trees using a big pole and just getting it mounted off the house and out of view then just ducting back into house ( I have spare ducts available. Has anyone else done this? Is it relatively stable signal? I was going to use a pile I had here similar to a scaffolding pole but not sure if I need something more sturdy so it doesn't blow around.

If its for your house, use kore, isoquick, econekt (izodom) or similar. Uiull get a custom made system with support from the supplier and likely better end result. I used Kore, cheap and designed by TSD above ( search tanners) worked fine and much easier than you library image.

Just off sumkhumvit Road.. soi 9 I think. Green light in my shower..for low level lighting. My mates was red.

I once stayed in a hotel in Bangkok which had a double bed, shower enclosure with toilet inside it in a single room. It also had a mirror on the roof and two walls and a red light and was called the honey House Hotel...penny never dropped till I got into my room.

I may not have listened...looks great though. Got some free composite decking that was getting binned, then the main joists I had already just some posts and postcode required really and some sarking for the.other half of the deck. Porch will get built next week.

Face fixed with lost heads us7ng a paslode with no mark tip. Use stainless steel paslode brads. Looks perfect...cannot be seen from the ground. Don't fix them in the tongue, it's simply not required. This is my siberian larch, 100m2 fitted.

Ah yes - I'm forgetting most people will have that. doh.

Preference really I'd suppose for aesthetics. As long as you leave a gap at the bottom from leaving them straight to get access to anything that ends up stopped by grating on the bottle gully. Bottle gullys are very expensive also, FYI. Mine currently are sitting in below the ground level. I am going to add runner boots to the bottom of mine then just link up some field drain wavin coil and drop them into my perimeter drain which is twinwall drainage. Which then discharges into the burn. I'd originally planned 110mm soil.pipes with fittings but the groundworkers were like...that will be mega hard.and Cost a fortune.

I'm going to start building the deck this weekend. I have a bunch of 8 x 2 left over by the kit builders hence, was going to buy 100 x 100 mm posts and then postcrete them in and make a proper deck with the 8x 2. The deck I am going to run right along the caravan to allow for both doors but only have half of it built over into a porch. I am swithering over what to use for the deck boards, I could buy proper decking boards but seems a waste since this deck is only for 6-9 months, then likely 12 months from now I'll be taking it down. I do have quite a lot of pallets, but can imagine the boards will all be different thickness? maybe just buy sarking boards? or fence boards? anyone any cheap solutions?

I recently got a quote from murray steel buildings for a 10m x 6m. Was 15k not including the vat, which was no insulated panels. I was going to get insulated to avoid condensation but apparently they have an coating to stop condensation. I only need it for storing my tractor and array of attachments so not worried about keeping anything warm. Seemed good value. I do however fancy a scottish larch clad building. Not sure if I could do it cheaper than the 15k though by going stick build.

I scratched using my siberian larch on walls aesthetically because we went a different route and fitted black cedral which is very nice. But still used siberian larch on soffits and canopy which is lovely, but no help to you. If you like scottish larch go for it....you won't regret it and if you have the right details for ventilation and water it'll all blend eventually and look good. They can all get a wee bit of mould and wee spots due to natural sugars. My siberian larch has only a couple which I was surprised at butnthey go away. Few pics for reference....

Surely this is designed already by your SE and on your building warrant drgs?

I'd recommend this highly just now. I didn't do it last year when I was getting my roof slated and regret it heavily. Midsummer wholesale and get the GSE in roof trays - do it now and you save the roofing material cost.

Yeah 35mm was what they are happy with. Pretty much everything on external walls is main ring or light switches and I only maybe have a few dual switching points. What's 47mm usually for? Cookers etc? Big cables?

I thought I needed deeper but the sparks seem happy with 25mm. I'd put thicker battens but I have an absolute load of 26mm thick roof battens bought during the height of the pandemic.

Yeah. I will have a service cavity. But only 25mm. So too thin to drill holes in I'd say. Also to make life easier for sparks and to ensure the airtightness membrane isn't damaged using first fix I was going to have battens cut at 450 and 1150mm to leave space for cable runs on recommendation from @ProDave

Its actually how most major buildings are built.or.infrastructure projects. Agreed margins and fees which cover profit and overhead. Then full open book on the costs. They generally use NEC contracts. I am in one now building hinckley and it works well.

I've added to 50mm PIR full cover to all my external walls. How's best to secure cables to the PIR which has an airtightness layer on it? The normal cable clips won't secure it and surely pull out to easily?

There is a huge topic on this Here. Do a search and you should find it.

I'd agree getting a phone out to do something is a pisser. I am a big fan if technology but I personally find the automated home thing is just adding complexity in some instances. Well all end up here.

I had this mindset a year ago, I wish I hadn't as it definitely is worthwhile and much quicker payback than you think.

Walk in room...flip switch as you walk by..