SuperJohnG

@LA3222 perfect timing. I was wondering how long it would take to unload as I can't get an artic to reverse into my access as the gate isn't quite wide enough to get the turning circle. Now I know it's a 30 min job! Its only a B road.....everyone can wait. Much appreciated for all your tags in this stuff, it is all helping me out very much.

Jammin thanks. Same as @LA3222 profile boards seem to be a good way forward.

This is great Jamie thanks. I fortunately have 4 stations already marked out on site with Hilti nails on fencepost from when the topo was done, Just the pisser is they are all +70m from the house footprint as that was the closest solid permanent structures on site as it was a field. I had used them to set out two closer new stations then marked out the house corners using arcs and a 50m surveyors tape, just so I could peg out corners and get a feel for where I wanted to place the house, they are accurate to a few 100mm, but obviously I want to mark perfect from them when doing the foundations. I'm similar that I need to dig down 600mm as I want my house 'in' the ground some what and that's where I may just have to do what you did to some extent. I have ACAD and all the drawings so getting X and Y positions is fine for everything. Profile boards now make perfect sense and should work, fortunately no blockwork just render board so might be a little simpler! BTW - The amount of soil you pulled out the ground - that's unreal almost! I'm also definitely confused here now ?. When you say plumb, I think 'Vertically plumb. Do you mean square? or am I just totally confused? E.g. when you measure diagonals on a square to make sure it is square and not a rhombus?

Thanks Dan (you've been a great help here) Did the surveyor just peg out corners, I was thinking that might do then add profile boards or similar, just thought it might be difficult from the low position where there was no hardcore, as when you build might be a pain to keep the position of the EPS without getting surveyor back. I am maybe overthinking it...I am used to engineering tolerances.

Makes better sense. Did you guys use a someone with a total station to get those drains bang on? or just measure them out.

So just normal drainage pipe. I was expecting it would done with an actual duct. Pictures are very helpful Dan thanks. Part that may be worrying me about drainage is the shallow invert levels I will have, but I think I changing the sewage treatment plant to a pumped type resolves all that. Then I cam just set it deep and also buy an extension for the head.

I think I was just avoiding putting multiple drain below the slab, I was trying to tie them all in the house so I had the minimal amount below slab tying together. I was thinking putting small waste pipes down through the slab and tying them in will be a pain to then tie them into the main 110m pipe. What size duct did you use for the water pipe?, My mate has a cobra which I think will come in handy! I was just thinking when I come to pull the cables in. Need to think about duct size just now for whatever size cable it will be. Do you just use a normal 110mm SVP pipe as the duct for this? or use a specific duct?. I should be 25mm MDPE, don't really see the need for 32mm I wouldn't think. Very helpful thanks - should look into part a little closer. Is this what most people do? thanks all - a lot of good input here.

I can do this, but then I just need to figure out how many cores I need I suppose. Runa multi core cable that would allow me to switch series of lights. Would make better sense to do this, albeit cable might become quite big? It's a good shout and that is what I am currently doing, positioning all the equipment at the moment. MVHR condensate is oen thing I hadn't thought of actually! Fortunately, Plant room is attached to utility room hence I have a drain in there I can run to save doing another below the slab. I was hoping to avoid smart home stuff, I do have the integral garage which is outside the thermal envelope, I could punch through the wall into. Might make more sense, I've attached full layout for clarity. Thanks. I did start to consider floor sockets for lamps on a 5A circuit but sacked it as I was already contending with this stuff. Resigned to having lamps close to walls. Makes sense for the ease of power floating, but I was concerned about water pipe, as I am hoping to pull water pipe through duct before pouring, so I know there are not any issues. It'll likely be 25mm MDPE from borehole wellhead. Then obviously with kitchen Island stuff this isn't possible which is a pain. I've also now remembered the connections for the ASHP, it's a monobloc, so will need power and the fluid connections (2 pipes?!) will these pull through a duct?. MY ASHP will sit right outside plant room. Thanks for the input so far. 724-03 Proposals.pdf

I'm close to getting started on Insulated foundation in next 4-6 weeks. Last night I was awake dreaming of ducts and tossing and turning in bed - I'm a engineer and thinker and like to resolve unknowns logically so I have the solution well in advance of doing everything but I'm not sure how I am going to approach mutliple ducts into my insulated foundation and slab. I've made a short list of what I think will be required: Incoming: Water Power BT Outgoing External Lighting Bollard lights Front woods Back woods Patio lighting Front gate lights External Power Borehole Power Garage (Future plan) Front gates (Future plan) Internal Island Power Water Waste pipe I have a plant room, where all the incomers will go and that's fairly straight forward and easy to sort out. For the outgoing ducts, I seem to have a million lights I want to control. It's a very big plot, a lot of future planning as I wont be able to do later and don't want to drill holes in the walls or see cables. But I'm struggling on how best to add these cables specifically for external lighting, without using multiple cables and using multiple ducts, which I can imagine will get messy. Also wanting to control from different locations in the house, E.g. Front woods, from front of house, Back woods from back of house. Or is there a good solution to run power only to a local JB then do a wireless control? (Distance is around max 80m from house either side). Similarly for external power especially future plans, should I use single ducts and then pulls cables later or a big duct with one or two cables then pull others through later? Island - I was thinking of just putting a duct between main kitchen units and Island, so I can pull power through later for Hob and power (seperate cables!?) then when doing first fix I do a connection somewhere behind kitchen units. Drain can be added easy enough below slab, and water - I suppose just stick a pipe in the slab between island and back of kitchen units I can tie into? The groundworkers have mentioned, covering ducts so they can bull float/ powerfloat over them, then i can dig out later - I don't feel tat confident about this as it might be pain later? especially digging out multiple ducts. Any input appreciated -lessons learned or pictures especially so.

Another for surprised at GSHP - not economically viable in my mind. I haven't done too much research but the unit seemed horrifically expensive. For me it would be easy also as I have a 2 acre area flat plot with no neighbours and can do a I please, so doesn't get much easier than that for installing the loops.

You'll struggle to find anyone who will fault find (competently) these days. Ita my experience that paying the 15-20 quid a month to BG just makes life easy...one call and ita sorted quick enough. Minimal hassle.

You've posed quite a good question. I don't really have an answer. I havent placed an order as of yet but pretty much finalised hopefully with Zyle fenster (Lithuania). Being foreign for me didn't matter. Inwas originally only planning 2g due to budget but 3g has came within my budget going to Zyle. One notable point I had was that internorm/Gaulhoffer and zyle seemed to be easily take on my 4.6m slider in 2 sections. Rational, Allan bros, Russell timber, Norman just couldn't. I had to compromise. I also wasn't after timber frame aluclad I woukd have been happy with pvcu but it seems to work out.

I found them more expensive than internorm I think. Discounted them straight away, they were at least 15-20 more expensive. Try ecowin ? For Gaulhoffer and zyle fennster.

Thats good news then. Better get it before the end of the year then!

Ita a different VAT system. The ROI is separate and hence from what I understand its not claimable through out HMRC. I'd happily be wrong though

I was just allowing 5mm as a guide but yeah your bang in its 2.5mm. I fitted 2 sqm in my porch (there's another thread on it) I did a border and parquet style and it looked good, can't imagine doing 150 sqm. Should be easier as its a nice open space but would be painful.

How thick is the latex screed? I ask as I've planned 150 sqm of amtico on mine. I was quoted 60-80 per sqm supply and install 60 being basic plank. 80 being basket weave etc. That included screed, prep and everything. I told the company it was going down on a concrete pour (insulated foundation) that would be level and wouldn't a screed but she said it still would. I have big sliders and planning flush threshold but there is not much room for manoveur if they do add screed as I will only have allowed for the 5mm LVT and a wee gap. If they told.me later I need a 5mm screed I'm up the creek!

I'm due to purchase (direct) my Kore foundation system, circa £7-8k. As i don't have a VAT number, I'll pay their VAT rate - I think it's under the reduced rate of 13.5% at the moment and not their full 21%. Its not claimable I believe even though it'll come into the UK. They said I could give them a VAT number and then it'd be zero rated....that's fine. But i think then the company the VAT number is registered to is then liable to pay UK VAT and then Charge me VAT, which I think would be fine as I can then claim back. I'd rather avoid the extra outlay and hassle, but wanted to see who else had done this process or similar and their approach?

+1 on this. I have renderboard and also open rainscreen cladding on a SIPS build

Crates look cool. I'd post a pic on Instagram. And hashtag it with drambuie and you might find someone who will pay a lot for them.

Yes. Protek. I just provided the self build zone one to show it was more expensive. Go for protek they will be cheaper. It won't be because you are TF, its more recognised than SIPS.

Just got this from self build zone - who are also Build zone (different trading names) Very expensive. My suggestuon is go to protek, you'll get an instant quote and it will be much better.

I haven't purchased yet, it is imminent though as due to start works in 6-8 weeks. The prices I quoted earlier are now valid for 30 days. Premium: £2065.41 IPT (12%): £247.85 Site Insurance Total: £2,313.26 (24 months) Premium: £891.00 IPT (12%): £106.92 Technical Audit: £1,872.00 Structural Warranty Total: £2,869.92

Is this to come from a kiosk where your power is terminated into the house? I have a similar length run from my new transformer (those are not cheap!) into the house I could check the price I was charge (£18k all in....)

Insane price. I am 300 sqm that's including my integral garage, SIPS construction, render on renderboard outer skin. £500k reinstatement cost. Just south of Glasgow. On all counts - your build is less risky, smaller, and cheaper to reinstate. Someone is ripping the proverbial piss. Get yourself on Protek self build for a warranty quote, see below. Weirdly and I cannot remember why selfbuildzone is Protek.