SuperJohnG

Yeah I'm pleased so far, a lot of it is just understanding what's required and being part of the forum and getting insight from others, like yourself, helps massively.

No I didn't. I toyed with using estimators online for my ecology application, but built my own budget which was formed only for that application and to give a better figure. I have no doubt missed items but I'll deal with that as it comes along. I am basically walking through the steps for each stage before I do it and then I make a list of what I need then the qty's required. Fairly simple. I have a SIPS kit coming so big timber purchases are captured in that. Otherwise I have the CAD drawings and can measure and estimate all quantities.

??? Pad stones all gone under the slab fortunately. We deepened the ringbeam to 250mm and now 150mm the rest of the slab, which removed them. I still have 5 external to the slab as I have a very large canopy (3m) over the glazed gable, but they are straightforward as it's just on soil and no need to cut through EPS and position blocks. I'm not sure I'll specifically have saved money there as is extra concrete obviously, but when i done the volume calc it was 31m^3 and I had originally budgeted for 36 so I coudl have probably saved some more money but I would have lost it in days explaining to the groundworkers that will help with labour or paying them to stand and watch me cut through EPS. It's simpler so I'm happy there. Hoping the weather holds up in January, only thing concerning me is the rain causing hassle as I am west coast. Interestingly, no DPM required inside my formwork, just underneath then wrapped up the edges of the outside. I think the difference being here is that I don't have a brick/block outer layer. Just render board, which again helps simplify. I was very pleasantly surprised with my quote from Kore today which has come out at less than originally estimated despite becoming 100mm deeper on the edge profiles and an extra layer of EPS.

Great wee bit of info. And this too - cheers Think I should have enough info to figure this part out now. Unfortunately looks like January for doing this for me - I know I shouldn't but hey ho - I need to get going!

Thanks - yep that was the things I was thinking. Mars bars seemed to make sense as then you can just sit them on the EPS and then put the steel on top quickly. It'll be post xmas for me now, so no doubt the extra support will maybe required for me, ? Thanks @LA3222 I was scouring the pics in your thread last night on the mesh castles, but I couldn't see them in there. Any advice on spacing of them? I think I will go simialr route to you, so it's all very solid to walk on. I assume the hystools are just the same as the items Peter mentioned above?

I haven't really started getting prices yet, currently in process of setting up credit accounts with Jewson, JW grant, and TP. I am building my bill of qty's for the foundations currently hence as I go along will do this at each stage in advance then send to each and do the usual internet search. I do have a SIPS kit, so no major timber purchases for me and I paid the deposit back in August. But things like plasterboard, battens, renderboard are where I might see big impacts or anything else I need to get from the builders merchants. I'll feedback once I start getting prices.

I've an insulated foundation from Kore due to kick off shortly and working out all the details. Hit a little stumbling block on how to support some of the mesh. I have a 250mm deep ringbeam with 150mm thickness on the rest of slab. Tanners provided the mesh type and detail etc, but I am trying to figure out the best route for supporting the mesh. The lower A393 can be on mesh castles at 40/50mm as required - I was even thinking on doing 'mars bars' (actual name!) as that seemed even quicker. The inner A252mesh, should be easy enough also with 75mm castles or mars bars again. However I am struggling find much info on how to support that upper section of A393 mesh. I done a CAD drawing below and added some some sizes. I assume the actual spacings are not set in stone (pun not intended) as long as you have the steel in there? 75mm down from the top of the slab seemed to make sense to me, hence I have 125mm gap to fill, how is it best to do this? Are Hy chairs what should be used here? any steer appreciated. I may be overthinking it - I'm a Mechanical engineer and this building malarkey all seems a bit loose for me..

These people (I used an expletive here...but removed it!) drive the price up themselves by scaremongering. I did talk to Jewson's today and asked him what he thought and he reckoned 15% since lockdown started.

I've not even considered asking someone for a price to supply and install as I know it'll just be a disappointment, way overinflated pricing or badly designed. Which in itself is a bit of a sad comment. I do have high standards for most things and like it done my way, unless of course I have employed an expert to do a better job. E.g. I would never considering rendering my house. The reason you are getting adverts though is likely as you'd done some searches and its now targeted advertising.

I keep hearing things generally on here. Price rises of that magnitude are purely driven by supply and demand, which you can put down to COVID as I believe there were shortages at the start of lockdown. Combine that with brexit anxiety and uncertainty and supplier's bump prices. There will also the Chinese whispers factor which will inflate the numbers beyond what they probably are. It would be good to see some real figures that prove these rises from supplier's exist and can be quantified. It is something that does concern me already too, I'll take delivery of my SIPS kit in Feb/March and then need everything else that goes along with building a house. I did talk to my supplier months ago to ask about shortages as nobody could get OSB at the time apparently, however they said it was fine they were just ordering and planning slightly in advance. My hope is we agree a trade deal quickly and then it all goes away, the pound climbs and markets grow as we then have certainty. Next year could be a blinder, if you coming a trade deal eitha vaccine and people able to get out and spend again. Onwards and upwards hopefully ?

Get a letter from the LA confirming. 24 years passed since my development theoretically commenced...and I've walked in and taken it on. There was nothing gndone but access and landscaping...but there was letter from the LA saying it had commenced which was from 1996.

@Scotland the manfolds look good - can you share where you got them from? Also - assuming you're in Scotland...where did you source your Ecodan from?

There's a man who sounds like he is speaking from experience! ?

Looks a nice tidy pipework job!

@Bozza s looks nice. Look up russwood. Lots of cladding detail, black cladding is pretty nice. I going for rainscreen siberian larch cladding mixed with white render on carrier board. I thought you didnt need an expansion joint on renderboard, defo don't need vents.

Hi Marsh and welcome, I'm just south of Glasgow. You are bang on that its a hard question to ask about how much and once you've done 6 months of reading you'll be anle to answer that question yourself. But I started right where you are a few years back, so you need that figure to start to work with something. Have a guess at say 1600 per sqm if you are leaving a lot to trades. It much be much less...one person ( @nod) managed 800 odd person sqm but that is an extraordinary case. its 10m x 10m and 200sqm. So budget on 320k...and you'll eat it up. Go Bobby basic or do loads of DIY and that can become 1200. I've budgeted on 1200...I'm now realising I won't achieve that and I havent even started. But I have a SIPS house coming and insulated foundation with ASHP,.MVHR triple glazed timber framed aluminium windows. It goes up quick. Educate yourself here and it'll become clear, lots of great info and people willing to help.

I may well do - just seemed to be causing hassle. It's just trying to remove those joins under the slab.

@Dan F thanks for this. Stuff it - I've sacked off the island drain, it was just in the event we put one of those wee prep sinks in there some time in the future. But - I'm likely never going to do it and will likely be far too skint to do it! Final revsion maybe...

I've done an update on this based on some feedback above, does this seem like a better option now @PeterW @Oz07. I'm hoping this captured what you guys meant about the Oblique tees, which I assume come off that main run, seems a little foreign to have those connections like that?

Haha. Fortunately I would have agreed with you. It was changed to a 2 section slider as it wasn't really that nice. Just the original 3d wasn't updated. Haha. Maybe not....but it definitely won't be any time soon anyways.

My superstructure engineer just finished the design and we are currently drawing the SIPS design and my designer needs some input from me on the position of the steels. It can be either in roof or under roof, see below. In roof is less intrusive and likely easier to level out internally with battens and plasterboard, maximises window also. Downside being a big thermal bridge, but I cant quantify how much of an issue it is? Other option being below roof - Much better thermally, but big drop below roof internally which I'll need to build down too (or do I just hide it in able wall?!) and obviously reduces window size. Also would give a really big services void, which may be helpful. What have others done? would be really helpful to see pics of others glazed gables internally and externally. 3d models fro context:

@LA3222 good questions. The ecodan website is poor as is any literature you can find on the units themselves. Albeit this is exactly where I am aimed it makes me question how easy it will be to with the lack of clear guidance frok the manufacturers. I haven't contacted a rep yet though.

Have you tried rational, Nordan, Allan bros, ecowin (gaulhoffer and zyle fenster) gaulhoffer has a great selection...but they will be above this price. They are on a par with RK doors. Any of the main window suppliers really.

But you had a deal if I temeber correctly? So you have to compare that with what your actual price would have been. The prices above seem pretty standard for any of the high quality (or perceived high-quality) brands.

Makes perfect sense and thats why I'd like to do it. I think I'd maybe do that for internal ceilings. But if not required on the roof (and provides a significant saving then I might follow @ProDaves thinking. If there is no need for sound deadening there its lighter and easier to work with it makes sense.