SuperJohnG

I can help but bring a realistic view here. It seems even from a preliminary assessment that alot of things need to go right to get this to work. In reality it'll get harder from here in and sounds somewhat difficult to grasp how you'd get there with these agreements. That's a lot of money to be paying.. .. 2250 in repayments will be a killer on an 85k wage. Its not unachievable but its unlikely to all work. That said...that my personal view on risk and it seems too risky for me, but I am generally risk adverse to a degree in. I'd work on what if it all goes ? shaped....Will you still be able to pay or make it work? E.g. you can't access that secured loan.

I am having a WBS, as others have said its marmite here. I have a rural plot and 2 acres of woodlands, ots free to me and hence mo point in me not doing it. Second point was for the absolutely extreme case where for some reason I lost power, that's my only source of heating gone as we have ASHP. So fire made sense.. even though its never likely we will lose power. Third is because I ike them. I have a SIPS build (just broke ground) and we have no heating upstairs apart from bathroom towels rails and electric ufh planned in them.

So is that a rest bend then angle tee (like a 45 tee? ) on its side to put it into the main drain. So they all come off as branches?

@LA3222 did you just connect these two pipes inline with a running tee for the first one and then a normal 88 or rest bend for the inner one? I'm at that point where its been done next week and I'm frantically spending late nights trying to make sure I have everything sorted.

Looking if anyone has pictures, they would be happy to share, of their pipes laid under the slab, particularly interested in seeing how they branch off and do the pop ups and types being sued, E.g. rest bends of normal tees, etc. Would be handy if you could just view all the picture stored the threads.

Yes as per @Bitpipes comment. However yes you can take the cash uo to the allowed value. But once you reach a point you've maxed that out you need to call the surveyor back out to assess the current value which will release more funds.

This roof looks great. Well done.

Yes. I was all along. Possibly hadn't articulated that. Makes perfect sense actually bringing it up right below the CU. Inwas going to bring it up the other side of the room just to group ducts. Thanks.

So does anyone know the answer to the original question? Whats the norm with running cables out to these items. Cable in duct through slab? Then juts adjacent to the related duct/ soil pipe?

@ProDave Miss reads what? (was there another post?) But yes just run a small black duct next to each individual main duct or pipe going to those services. I.e. I have a 100mm water duct going to borehole, I'll run a small duct next to it for the supply cable which comes up in the same place in plant room. Same for TP, but obviously that's a soil pipe. My DNO has given me red ducting yes! Its onky around 50mm too. For the last 20m of LV cable to come into house.

Tanners were 1300 euros (or thereabouts) for my foundation design. I found this fine? I did have an SE visit site, I have a superstructure engineer who was doing the SIPS kit engineering and also the SER. They visited and done the soil investigation, I then sent the report to tanners and they coordinated to do foundation design. If you are getting a KORE system, I'd only say use tanners. Tried and tested by many here and trusted. They don't need to visit site they just need the foundation loads and the SI.

I have to provide power to the treatment plant and borehole pump. I'm just planning out the plant room. For the SWA for the borehole and treatment plant supplies. Is it best just to run a small electrical duct out next to the soil pipe (that goes to TP) and water duct? Then just run the SWA in that?

You won't beat Kore for price. Also Tanners structural design are regarded as the best going on this forum. I have good reports for both so far. Others are isoquick ans econekt. Both use a very similar interlocking system but no real advantage to warrant the big price increase IMO. I havent installed mine yet (starts next week) but plenty others have.

@ZacP MBC use a Kore foundation system. Just go direct to kore foundation and get a price, I'd guess you'll be about maybe 4 or 5k or something for that size. You can go to tanners structural design direct or go through kore (you can reclaim the VAT for the engineering costs if you go through kore..?). I have a 250mm deep ring beam with 150mm main section.

I got quoted £36k for supply and fit of an insulated foundation system. Didn't include the initial site levelling. I'm now doing it myself..with my own groundworks. I bought a Kore foundation system (like many others here) which cost maybe 8.5k delivered. Ill be around 20-25k all in I think. Maybe not as much as that. I should add - its 190 sqm footprint!

That seems steep. I done mine last year - albeit she told me to get it in quickly before they changed the prices. That seems a steep rise though. My survey was 400 I think - a bit of a joke TBH, but it is what it is. I am in Scotland. I would make a call, talk through with the surveyor - he works for you at the end of the day. Provide some background and show him why its worth more and get the price pumped up. Albeit, this only matters if you need all the cash from Ecology? it just helps draw more overall and at the start.

Whose fees were they? If it doesn't work eith ecology its only 300 lost plus the surveyors costs. I had Allied surveyors my plot (through ecology also). I talked the surveyor through what the value should be on open market. I bought for 50k. He valued at 175k.

Sorry @ProDave I meant your self build insurer - as the prices seemed cheap(er!). Protek are my cheapest at the moment.

Dave who was it you insured with - you seem to be getting the cheapest numbers I seen on here (albeit was last year) and keen to see who it is. I've avoided getting it till now (starting next week) but the £2200 for 24months is making me upset, I may reduce to 18 months, but is it really worth it (£1700)

Was more about it being walked on and damaged than arriving with holes. Once installed I'll pressure test (time allowing!) then blow out with compressed air I think. Ah, I'd assumed it was an IVAR manifold with pump/blending set - this would make it less of a decision just now for me. @Nickfromwales any insight here you can provide please? Do you buy a full IVAR manifold and pump/ blending set or Wunda manifold with IVAR blending set? The corners is exactly what I wanted to avoid - as I'd seen you other posts! Stuff it - DPM underneath only, all about making life easy.

Thanks. I just hadn't figured out the IVAR manifold yet or the Wunda one. (IVAR website seems a pain and too many options) Only issue here is I will have no running water on site then, but can maybe just get a wee pump and take some water up. Thanks all helpful wee bits. The stapler defo seems like the easier option from here. No DPC on mine (drgs anyway) it goes below mine, which seemed easier. It seems a pain and extra step I could avoid there, also it meant it I had the foundation sitting without doing pour for a few weeks then it wouldn't fill with water as much. Does it seep a lot? Defo makes sense on maybe leaving water out at concrete pour and there is nothing you could do at that point. I'll maybe test prior to pour, to give me confidence it's not damaged then pump water out using air to avoid any overpressure or freezing issues.

Nearly there with starting the foundations for my insulated raft foundation, just sorting out the nuts and bolts and getting prepped for installing the UFH pipework, to be supplied by Wunda. My Pipework is to go in the slab which is 250mm ringbeam with 150mm main section. I will be installing the month, and hence it'll be cold and likely freezing temps for some time yet. I have the design now I just have a few questions if anyone can provide some input: 1) Most with insulated foundation seem to attached pipes to mesh with cable ties or similar. However Kore (foundation supplier) seems to mention that they should be installed first before mesh to keep them protected (makes sense) see image at bottom. Hence stapled into the EPS and out the way. Seems like the best plan (and a lot easier to fit not walking on mesh) probably two questions here: 1a) Is there any good reason others fit it to the mesh? rather than then EPS? 1b) Will it matter with pipes being that 'deep' in the slab?. Heat rises obviously, but it the only down side that the reaction time takes longer than say being on mesh at half the depth of slab? (I.e. 150mm deep vs 75mm deep) 2) Should I get manifold just now or just cap ends and leave attached to wooden support. (saves manifold getting damaged?) 3) How best to test the pipe integrity once installed? any good links to hand pumps/ gauges? (Manifold might be helpful here) 4) Should I leave pipes filled while doing the concrete pour? I have seen others say we should/ others that haven't. Does it really matter? 5) If I did leave fluid in the pipes for pour, should I use anti freeze in order or avoid any freezing issues and pipe damage following the days the concrete is curing? 6) Any other hints / tips?

They will resume (assuming they don't cease trading), but it means I can get it whenever I like but just pay a premium. I was more pointing to getting rid of the site audit fees - which are the main part of the cost. I'm in Scotland so LA does BC. Theoretically I can do this with any supplier and get a retrospective policy, but they don''t really advertise them like that.

How do i get one of these??!

Just called to finalise my structural warranty. ProTek are not offering any new Structural warranties at this moment until March. They have oversold this year and the underwrite hadn't notified them, so now they can't sell anymore. It's a bit of a pain as Protek were 25% cheaper for me. Protek - £2931 (£903 premium / £1920 site audit fee plus IPT) Closest competitor - £3950 (£1197 premium/ £2610 site audit fee plus IPT) Now, interestingly the guy said I could wait and get it in March , however he couldn't guarantee it but I would pay a £25% premium for each stage missed in inspection, now lets' say 4 stages in total. Imagine I wait till it is built and then get it retrospectively - thats 100% increase in the premium. Premium is only £903 - so premium becomes £1806 - this seems a hell of a lot better than £2931