SuperJohnG

Thanks both.

I just watched this also. Uber impressed, fantastic design and was pretty awe inspiring. I assume it was a fibre cement exterior but it looked great, nice contrast with the wood cladding. Price seems amazing for having what looked like a horrifically expensive steel structure.

Lovely down there at Culzean and heads of Ayr. I think I was possibly late 20s before I questioned how the electric brae worked....

Well we are on the way now and no going back. The groundworks guy started last week, he is putting in the road and hardstanding and will do the insulated foundation under my guidance and I will assist. It's a good relationship and he comes when its not raining and is well experienced in groundworks. He is actually building his own home just now too (we are similar ages). The night before he came on site...I was hurriedly arranging site insurance (horrific cost of over £2k - but it is for 24 months) that was sorted, then in the dark I went up and attached the cursory health and safety signs at the entrance. I also put a sign facing out into the surrounding fields (see pic below) as we have people who walk by and I haven't heras fenced the site hence if someone crosses the fence they should be aware there might be big holes in the ground. The digger came the next morning and we have nearly finished the access going in to the house, around 400 Tonne of 3" crusher run has got us up to the house location. Which is pretty damn close to what I calculated, we were put off my rain somewhat this week which suited us both as I was stowed with my normal job, I did have holidays booked but couldnt get off as I had too much on. However come Monday..I will be off for a week.... I 've been busy at night over thinking, over engineering and done far too much detailed planning around drainage and ducts. But I'm nearly ready. The Kore Insulated foundation system came in December....I can tell you how glad I was that i brought it in before Brexit. I'm hearing stories that it is completely problematic now. I was missing some EPS for a thermal break between man slab and integral garage but steven from Kore sorted it and should be here next week just in time. I'm spending my night tonight comparing prices of drainage which I'll bring on site on Tuesday. The groundworkers will be back Monday and we expect a big week full speed ahead, we will scrape the foundation out (the footprint top soil is removed) get it level, then fill with Type 1. Then surveyor here on Wednesday to set out profile boards with, I done all the ACAD drawings for him to place it all and do the ducts and drains and insulated foundation corners etc, He's also been really helpful and proactive. The final UFH design is done, I'll order the pipe on Wednesday too and they can get it next day, so that's fine. Next week is a big week and I'm excited...I've planned some bits to death, but in reality we will just see how it goes. Some pictures attached because that's what a blog is all about Jude was thoroughly enjoying the water and mud!....wish us luck! 20210115_154740.mp4

I camt find the original site right now...but sure it included a 300l pre plumbed cylinder. But for example... add a gledhill 400l for day 800 quid and you are jamming. I want an ecodan. But they don't do pre plumbed at a decent size.

Just to throw something in here for anyone who finds this. These prices are crazy, I jad a soil survey done for 350,.paid a jcb driver 100 quid to turn up an dig 5 holes for 2 hours and backfill. Full soil investigation survey supplied in a couple of days. Unless you're needing ti do boreholes for whatever reason it's crazy money.

I had priced an ecodan just the ASHP I think at 6.5k. Been a while though, maybe 6 months..

As a bit of an update. The superstructure engineer hadn't included them in the drawing....albeit is stating they ae definitely required to provide lateral restraint against wind loading. I had a few words about why were they not shown and seems to have been a missed detail that shoud have really went on engineers drawings. Anyway they are in their calcs and are required to help with wind loading and help against lateral loading (As a mech engineer it's what I'd call and overturning moment. Imagine you are pushing on the thin end of the SIPS panel not the inner or outer face, load getting applied from another wall that's being hit with wind. So the gist of it is, sort of found a solution where it removes my need to chip out concrete or plan positions of straps prior to pouring. we will add an l shaped strap underneath the sole plate, so it is hidden. Every 1200mm the sole plate will either have a rebate in the underside or just cut a bit out thick enough to take strap, straps will be Hilt nailed to slab and then SIPS rail that provides SIP guidance into the panel rebate will go on top. SIP panel is placed then hold down strap attached. Seems to work and importantly someone else will have to do the work not me. A nice image to make it easy to understand, once agreed and implemented I will update this thread for others who come along.

Drama semi over - I think. The SIPS supplier has put hold down straps on the ground floor shown on his drawing. see here: However on inspection of the Structural engineer drgs he hasn't shown any straps on the ground floor. only the upper floors to strap the roof down. So I think it's a non issue! @LA3222 they tie the kit down on some designs, see above (HDGS item). @jamieled thanks for coming back to me, I thought that was what I would have to do with must have be a PITA. @Gus Potter helpful and insightful as always thanks. My own choice to use two different was more one of needs must and to ensure I got the best people for the job, the SIPS deisgner found their superstructure engineer, who are very good and I appointed Tanners as they are experts for insulated foundation design. Fortunately I discusssed with the superstructure engineers if they would do the SER also, which they did and signed off of Tanners design and also asked them to change a few items. So on the whole I am hoping it's merely a SIPS designer draughting issue and that's all. I will find out tomorrow and update the thread. For reference - I am SIPS without masonry outer leaf, but I do have steel portal frame on my big glass gable.

I coukd put them in and attach to mesh. But here must be a better way. Its a PITA. Tanners came back to me today but said its uo to the superstructure engineer. @LA3222 any chance you can provide some input your the only other I know with an insulated foundation and SIPS.

How come?

I couldn't really find any details with the search. I've a KORE insulated foundation, with a SIPS kit going on top. The concrete slab will be the FFL, hence cannot fit internal holding down straps, that are L shaped. I have mailed Tanners, to check what the norm is. But can you just do the holding down outside with straight straps and screw into the EPS? seems like it's the only way, but not sure the EPS would be strong enough. I'm sure Tanners will tell me in the morning but keen to know what others done. Floor covering is LVT hence too thin to hide in grout or whatever.

I know however his wood fibre panels (can't remeber what they are exactly) I think are directly attached? I might be making it up. It would be nearly the same thing.

Them in my opinion. I have SIPS and I will be having a 50mm air gap then my renderboards. Albeit I am now very interested to follow this, only person I know with something attached directly to a kit is @ProDave with his wood fibre cladding which is rendered. Dunno know if thats nearly equivalent? following with interest.

I can't get it deep enough in the slab though as the mesh will be 40mm below surface? Also - 100mm?? you mean 110mm right or have I missed something?

By Upstands you guys just mean like a normal tray? I'm not sure I can shutter the whole area as it is in the ring beam and 40mm down it will have reinforced mesh.

Not a fan of wet rooms, much prefer a tray and full screen.

I'm pretty well ahead with the soil pipes and runs, however the downstairs WC shower tray is causing me major headache. I want to keep the tray on the floor (doesn't need to be flush). But haven't chosen the tray, and need to put in stacks this week. How do I deal with this? See images below, rigth most stack comes from the 1st floor, the furthest left is for toilet and basin. I was going to possibly put one in the middle, that I could maybe shutter around so that I can use a low level shower trap and figure it out later. But how do I know how much to shutter? and what depth? also as I don't know which tray Ill end up I could end up with a tray with a drain in the corner. It all seems to be a right PITA - but I have to develop a plan quite quickly. Any help / steer much appreciated. All the soil pipes are hidden in a fake stud wall. (Or should be If we put them in the right place!)

As a very good alternative, I would throw fleming homes into the mix. I would have used them for ours but they don't do SIPS. However jad I been timber frame I would have chosen then. They erect also so no VAT outlay. If you look for @Redoctobers blog he had a house built by them. If you're going to extensively modify a standard design you are as well doing your own design. Fleming also have annin house design service.

I've just found this thread. @Nickfromwales so what should be happening is a double female socket fitted prior to the pour so it points out the slab? or is a stub acceptable with a triple socket branch for the downstairs WC and then the upstairs can stay in line? (I couldn't see the issue in this thread, but I am about to leave 100m pipe sticking out my slab and got semi concerned this is not what I should be doing!) I thought I'd just trim to size on house up and then fit a triple socket branch.

Welll...I could tell you the story about the time at my flat I let out. One of the tennants in the block (three flats) decided flushing sanitary towels was a great idea....queue me having to pull a ball of at least 20 sanitary towels which had compacted into a ball with sh!t and toilet paper out by hand.......... but thats an extreme case. ? I'd added a drawing to another thread I'd started as I've completely taken over this one.

This may actually deal with my downstairs shower issue if I shuttered that area at the shower, then dropped a soil manifold low, I can pick up the WC in there on a stack branch.

This seems to be hard for me as I have specifically lined everything up to make it easy, but can't use rest bends as they are line. see below - top IC flows out to TP, so I had lined this up directly from the 1st floor SVP, then just was going to add anothet stack directly behind for shower tray (level shower tray on slab, so shuttering required to allow drain to connect below FFL). then tack the toilet on further back. Kitchen could be a rest bend but, then how do I attach that gully trap or rodding end? I suppose to be fair, the gully trap is only there for an external tap and could really go directly into surface water to simplify. I don't see me needing a rodding end here at kitchen really? can't imagine what's going to get stuck in there I can't access from the IC rodding point. For the lower IOC - this only picks up the utility sink and plant room drain (MVHR condensate and UVC drain).

But the 45's are under the slab, I'm maybe not thinking of it correctly. Would that be an IC for each from the house, so no branches under the slab. So in your the picture further up, those two stacks don't connect under the slab? So from the above pic, you have IC, then Y branch (where i can see it on pic) then you have the twice again just at the bottom of the pic? (I can only see one y branch on your ic - which is throwing me off here?) I may need to advance my drawing to show people what I mean.

Thanks @Dan F yes somewhat. I had also spent a bit of time looking at the NHBC rules you shared on another thread of mine which has had me thinking deeply about this tonight. I assume slow bends are just rest bends?