Tennentslager

I've done a few options on various huts. The three budget options are Good quality felt, don't even bother with the thin stuff. £6/7m EPDM rubber. £6/7m Oduline bitumen sheets.£7/8m EPDM is very easy to do but you need a clean surface to stick it to. Put 11mm OSB on first and you can have more strength and neat edges/soffit/ bargeboard/gutters. Lasts 30 plus years and 100% waterproof. This would be my choice. Oduline next best. Easy to do with their serrated and capped nails. Some folk like the wavy look. If one sheet is long enough meaning no joins, I'd consider this too. If you do watch the video, it's easy to put it on upside down...only one side has UV protection and if you get it wrong it will go quickly from black to grey and degrade. The cost with oduline will rack up if you buy all the verge and edge trim and on a small roof you may go well over the price I mentioned. Beware! Felt is shit but cheap and okay for a few years.

Great news @Russell griffiths well done. This will also be great encouragement for others embarking on the same journey. Be nice to see you progress through the next couple of years. Have the weekend off boss and enjoy that nice feeling ???

Yup, that's the way to do it...

Top job old fruit, let's see a nice photo then... before the snow starts

What's a 'storage wall' and the 'ward' above it...? Haven't heard these terms before. Building in the middle of nowhere isn't as hard as our forebears endured... battery power tools are truly wonderful things? a bit of thought and once your out of the ground it's not so bad. Is it a spring/summer build this year..guess planning should be straightforward given location

Welcome, folk will be happy to comment on plans, might also be useful to include a block plan for consideration of orientation on the plot. Which island and does the equivalent road tariff apply? Quite a few island dwellers on here with experience of our lovely variable weather ????

Fencing is not cheap and could easily run to many £000's. Latch sarking boards in either hit and miss and or with a wavy topline cut with a jigsaw look nice for as low as £40 per metre. They do soak up stain/treatment though which adds loads of labour and cost. Aluminium...wow if it's £250 per metre means even a modest 100m fence coming in at £25k!

Congratulations ???? ??? ?? ?

Yep, warm welcome, your in good company. What stage are you at? Dream home sounds interesting...grand designs ???

Never done it with little tiles Jamie but a bench grinder is cheap and great for accurate lines. Depends how beautiful you want it to be? Job looking great so far?

To finish this off with much thanks to the Welsh wizard @Nickfromwales I could not get to the job for a variety of reasons so emailed Nick's thoughts to Div the plumber. Div was super frustrated and tried everything Nick suggested, to be fair he said he already had. On the phone he sounded mad as hell that it wasn't working and professional pride was hurting. Radiators were still stone cold. Anyway away he went for the night and came back today determined to beat the problems. Bingo, blocked filter it was after all. Took it out and gave it a good clean until a new one arrives from online. Everything is piping hot? He said, call it Four half days and give me £200. That's on top of £200 for the first two days. Two radiators fitted, wash hand basin moved, new toilet fitted including coring out the wall and new waste pipe work. Also some odd pipes capped and a leaky stopcock replaced. I'm happy, he's a good guy who can now head off to Quito in Equador to do his skateboarding ???

Naughty step @Nickfromwales I think @TerryE meant this for an uneven or wavy wall ???

If your doing a big area and have uneven gaps get an extra gun and cut the caulking tubes at different lengths, one in each gun. So that one gives a nice fine line for close fitting areas and one cut well back for getting a good thick line for filling bigger gaps. Oh and cut the tube at an angle like a hypodermic needle...all the better for a neat finish.

I assume you are putting a door on it? If so just paint it...more money left for Cider!

It labelled inlet, 22mm same as outlet so yep it's the return. Cold mains and dhw are in 15mm. Dunno if it's blocked but before the new work rads 1 to 4 were working fine.

One more thing for when I go back... In the first picture the boiler is to the left of the AAV's then to the right tees off to rads 6&5. The pipe run to the right heads to rads 4&3. In the second picture you see the pipe continue to 4&3...if you zoom in to the back wall where the pipes go down to the rads you can see one pipe loops up quite highly. From sticking my head through the ceiling hatch I reckon this loop is higher than the AAV. Didn't want to crawl across and clip it as was on my own. Is this a potential area for an airlock to 3&4?

Will do...in a couple of days. Hogmanay becons? Only 5&6 have TRVs the others have lock sheild valves. I'll report back

How can you tell if the pump is okay? I read the manual but no fault code exists for such a thing and well, two rads are heating up so...

Bought last week from PlumbCentre, cheapest ones displayed on the counter, think they were 8 quid.

To be clearer about what's what... The bit in the red circle is new. Prior to this all rads (1 to 4) where working fine. 5 is the previous picture of the rad with the tree wallpaper behind it (the big one) 6 is the small one. So, turn on boiler and 1&2 heat up, the others, nothing. ( All valves everywhere fully open, system bled etc) Turn off 1&2 then the lock sheild valve on 6 becomes hot and the rad starts to warm up. So, first question is...is the teed connections in the loft the wrong way around as the hot is arriving at the lock shield side of rad 6, not the TRV side? Secondly, can't figure out why there's no heat to 3&4? Nothing has changed there unless there's still an airlock somewhere or sludge or the pump has an intermittent fault or I'm just in above me head?

Time to head off, it's beer o'clock

5/6 ft. Copper 22mm then converts to plastic before disappearing into the wall

The hot outlet pipe below boiler is roasting but inlet pipe barely lukewarm and I've been here an hour and a half?

Yes, now did all of that and switched boiler back on

Yes