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joe90

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Everything posted by joe90

  1. joe90
    I was also told a WBS was a definite requirement and it’s great, we were told we would overheat (impossible for my missus ?) but a couple of hours and the room gets up to about 28 (toasty), doors open and it has migrated through the house. What is interesting is even by the following morning the lounge is still at about 24, and the UFH has not kicked in all night. I think the brickwork around it acts like a heat store. (Intentional)
  2. joe90
    Yep, I’ve done the same, 60litre buffer tank with immersion in case of ASHP failure/servicing, in winter I run the ASHP full time at 40’ (heating) controlled by a tank stat. The UFH is controlled by a room stat that turns on the manifold pump when heating is required. That means we don’t have to wait fir the buffer tank to heat up when heat is required, the slab takes long enough to heat up anyway. I may be going on to E7 or E10 so will have to change this arrangement.
  3. joe90
    Just looked online and I think it was “rollerdor” https://www.rollerdor.net/ may be wrong but the site and drawings etc look very familiar. They do from DIY kit upwards. Hope this helps. ?
  4. joe90
    I have not used PHPP but built ours to passive principles. One thing I don’t think PHPP does it take into account local conditions (please tell me if I am wrong over this). @JSHarris found he had less of a heating load and more of a cooling load because of a sheltered valley location, we on the other hand are on flat land near the coast and reckon the constant (almost) South westerlies wash an amount of heat from our structure .
  5. joe90
    Sorry @wozza can’t find the receipt (also can’t claim the VAT,)
  6. joe90
    Right, I run my ASHP at 40’ so is there any advantage of turning down the buffer tank stat to say 30’?
  7. joe90
    Fair point, it’s just that @JSHarris ran his at 40’ with no defrosting, perhaps I will wind the tank stat down to 30k but keep the ASHP running at 40’ so any heat up time required is minimal.
  8. joe90
    I too have a fixed temp of 40’ from ASHP into a buffer tank running permenantly (in winter) controlled by tank stat, the manifold mixes temp down to 25’ for the UFH, the manifold pump is controlled by a room stat in the hallway. I have a small temp reader in the lounge and it stays at 21’ + or - 1’. I am considering E7 or E10 like @JSHarris to lower electric cost.
  9. joe90
    I will have to wade through receipts, came from Hull I believe, will get back to you. It was a bespoke size and only problem was a part became faulty, they asked me if I could replace it and they sent me a spare part.
  10. joe90
    Mine has a safety edge but no batteries ?
  11. joe90
    Brill @ProDave looks really good ?
  12. joe90
    I regret not double boarding our ceilings, or soundblock PB. Even though ours meet building regs I have found speech can be heard between floors ? P.S. our build is brick and block and external noise cannot be heard indoors.?
  13. joe90
    Oh, glad I don’t drink it then ?, does it do a treatment plant any harm?
  14. joe90
    Someone told me about cheap cola being good.
  15. joe90
    I would run it through the back of a cupboard if it’s not too much trouble, why make things difficult fir yourself?
  16. joe90
    I used a 100mm hole saw to cut my I beams (within the cutting limits ) and up through the stud walls I had no noggins to cut as I left them out ready for the pipe to be installed, like @PeterW said cutting 89mm timber will not leave enough meat IMO.
  17. joe90
    ??????
  18. joe90
    Oh yes, particularly black guttering that heats up in the sun, most gutters are tight in the brackets and the creaking is the guttering expanding and “clicking”as it tries to slide through the bracket.
  19. joe90
    Yup, an absolute fab hub of knowledge and out of the box thinking.
  20. joe90
    Also, if the next room is carpet with underlay?, a sloping threshold will give you another 20 or 25mm. This is what I did into our en-suite with electric UFH. We hardly notice the slope.
  21. joe90
    Going back to bracket spacing I always go 600mm, I hate saggy guttering, causes all sorts of problems and looks rubbish, brackets are cheap. I also hate guttering that creaks in the sun when warming up, then creaks when it clouds over, I always shave a little off the back of the guttering where it goes into a bracket so its not too tight and can move to take up expansion.?
  22. joe90
    i do not know my lecky consumption yet, the house is still settling down but the last bill was higher than expected. I think I will follow @JSHarris and change to either E7 or E10 and time ASHP and DHW to run at cheap rate. The house is very stable in that temps takes a long time to change and it’s very noticeable that during mild weather the heating is needed very little.
  23. joe90
    Or a small batten screwed to the floor for the tyres to touch when parked correctly.
  24. joe90
    It also depends on location. @JSHarris found his location very sheltered which is why overheating was a factor which surprised him a little, here we get mild but constant winds and rain which I firmly believe “wash” the heat in the outside walls away.
  25. joe90
    They should have built the Severn barrage many years ago. The latest feasibility study cost what it would have cost originally to build!
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