joe90

I do (I drive an auto and never use the “parking brake”), p.s. with mine you can’t take the key out unless your in “park” ?

Dave, it was mentioned on here some time ago that the Stiebel may cause flow restrictions as it’s only 15mm pipework, did you find this was the case? (I still have mine as a plan “B”).

I used dri therm 32 in my 200mm cavity, my builder was very fussy (at my insistence, tho in fairness he was very fussy anyway).

Depends on what you want and what height your roof is!, as I was building under permitted development my eaves were limited to 2.5m, but I had a 500mm roof overhang (to stop rain driving in when the door was open) also it allowed me to have a slightly higher door height. Door when open is same as bottom of facia board. Just measured it at 2.4m. My door was bespoke electric roller shutter so I could make the door what size I wanted.

My set up is similar to @ProDave and I plumbed my cylinder to ASHP with no probs (after advise on this forum), I did however have a few glitches with wiring it all up and setting up the ASHP to do what I wanted but that is all done now (after some more advise on here ?).

I used to think my builder was wasting my electricity running the mixer fir ages with mortar in it but he explained the mix was a lot better after along mix.

I took out no warranty on our new build as a friend of mine took out an indemnity insurance to cover this when they sold their build (and it cost less than the warranty would have,!!).

Originally ours was to have skeilings (1 3/4 ?) but decided last minute to go full 2 story (kept ridge height the same so planners not involved) extra cost was bricks only (6 rows), builder said no extra cost on labour as saved faffing elsewhere.

The refusal for the planning was purely about shape (our planners down here have a thing about bungalows or room in roof to such an extent that next door is room in roof but 1200mm higher than our bungalow, still it took an appeal person to apply some common sense) . If I applied for a room In Roof bungalow with garage it would not have been refused. The garage was going to be built anyway.

Well I had a stop notice issued against me (by our very pedantic council). We were fighting for planning permission to replace a derelict bungalow with a cottage, it was suggested that I carry on and build the garage under permitted development (which was on the planning permission being sought and was not a problem). We had started building the garage (demolition of existing Nissan hut which constitutes a “start”). Before the bungalow was lost in a fire (no it did me no favours, in fact it cost me a lot more money to clear the site of asbestos than it would if I simply bagged it up and disposed of it, asbestos in a fire explodes and goes everywhere so all top soil had to be cleared and taken away!). Anyway, said council decided to issue a stop notice (to the wrong address so not being on site I knew nothing about it till the brickie rang me up to say council arrived on site and threatened a hefty fine if they did not stop work immediately). Council would not accept that I had started before said fire so I went to appeal, at the same time I went to appeal on the cottage planning refusal. We won the cottage planning appeal (which included the garage) so I cancelled the appeal about the garage. i think the planners were pushed by a neighbour that fought everything I did on site, in fact he rang the council every time I started my JCB ( to clear the ditches around our field next to the site). In the end I used to ring the planning enforcement officer (who was alright really) to tell him what I was doing so when the neighbour rang he had an answer. dont ask me my opinion about bxxxxy planners ?

Yes after nearly losing my thumb (don’t ask) I have a lot less grip. The jig is good, my only comment is make the 2x4 , 2x5 and cut a square slot in it (like a mitre block) to get a square cut and line it with rubber mat to grip the pipe.

We have an en-suite with a corridor past built in wardrobes/dressing area and would not be without it, I am yet to wire it but when staying in a hotel last year the bathroom had a movement sensor which switched a low level light on for nocturnal use without trying to find the light or having a bright light come on, it’s on my extensive “to do list”.

If I do use a RH sensor to control MVHR on/off I would put it on the landing, a central point within the house rather than in the duct work. I do plan to have one in the bathroom duct to control boost after shower/bath, this may have to also over ride landing sensor if the MVHR is off.

The relative humidity in my new build has always been a bit high, but I am in damp Devon!. The MVHR is off as er indoors always opens windows so no point in it being on. Currently it is 67%. It is a cheap Chinese gadget tho! How accurate are these things? Can someone recommend an inexpensive one that is fairly accurate?

Thats ok if you know what your doin!, I’ll stick to driving my tractor ?

I too wanted to monitor CO2 levels to control the MVHR (a bit like central heating running off a room stat) no point in running it if it’s not needed (windows opened!!!). Quick search found this. https://www.flamefast-gas-safety.co.uk/products/co2-air-quality-monitoring-equipment.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw753rBRCVARIsANe3o47B7IrhbuWZ3Ab3ofsokp1-YwCXh9S5u39Sm5CWx95IxOWM3bDMwcQaAv9ZEALw_wcB. I too would need plug and play as I don’t understand tech ?

Actually I find screwys basic range quite good.

Gosh, I think it was this from Screwfix https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-decorators-caulk-white-310ml/57568

I DIYed mine (including making my own manifold and silencer), when the BCO visited to sign the building off he simply said “no window vents because you have MVHR”. I copied @JSHarris balancing sheet in case he wanted it but he didn’t ask fir anything. Funnily it’s been switched off all summer as my wife opens all the windows ?.

Ha, this is exactly what I recommended on another thread. My plasterer said it was not needed but like @JSHarris we have suffered cracking due to window and wall expansion etc. I did it on my porch and conservatory and no cracking at all. I left a 2mm gap between thin stop bead and window frame and filled with non setting caulk. ?

Yup!, no slip plane and DPC 150mm above ground level. I would like others opinion on this, may be missing something.

Actually, just had a lightbulb moment, why bring the DPC into the inner wall? The inner wall is above the DPC within the floor makeup. Why not just wrap it over the sloping cavity insulation and put through the outer wall!!!

Well we used the golcar passive foundation idea but with a twist. My builder (who has used this before) lowered the DPC to internal floor level which meant the weepholes were at ground level but draining into a French drain (no hard path) he then inserted a second DPC 150mm above ground level on the external skin and this stops “rain bounce” from soaking up the external brick work. My builder found that the Golcar internal DPC above skirting level created a slip plane and a crack line in the internal plaster above the skirting line.

I have a de Walt radio and a set of fm radio ear defenders, good combo for different situations.

I have just received a letter from HMRC to say our claim has been received and there are no outstanding issues, 6 week lead time started ?.