joe90

My outside tap uses a buried hep20 plastic to copper 90’, no probs (yet ?).

Why not take a photo of the missing bit and use it as a lever to get a bit of discount on the price and say your not convinced there is more missing!

Our builder used Spanish slate and it looks fab, slight green tint like Lakeland slate.

Yup, demolish and build something with loads of insulation (which you only purchase once). What are you looking to build and are the planners on board?

Unless your other half has bought vintage crockery that will not go in the dishwasher ?.

Like @ProDave air feed to our stove is from the outside so a “non closable vent” is not required, building inspector simply asked about its function in an airtight house and I showed him the air feed pipe outside and he was satisfied.

Spookily we commented that we have not seen hedgehogs round here (probably all drowned!) but last night found one scuttling along the roadside when I walked the dog.

Personally I love our en suite and would Defo want one if we still had kids about! The dressing room between en suite and bedroom is also good as you don’t have to be “decent” walking from one to another.

No thanks, it will clash with my yellow workshop! ?

This from the tinternet (so must be true!) pallets. Generally, pallets are safe to burn in fireplaces, although those that are treated with the fumigant methyl bromide (labeled with the initials MB) are unsafe to burn.

Like jeremy, I remember someone being told he must use slate from his local quarry, he got several random samples and wrote different sources on them in pencil, one being the local quarry but it in fact came from Spain or something, planners passed it and nothing more was said. (I think this what happened or something similar)

Or I cut down left over pallets to raise my logs off the floor.

Our Vortex has a timer and I think it pumps into two different places and this can be adjusted (note to self, get the chap who commissioned it to do a 12month health check).

Going back to bathroom heating, our (near) passive build has electric heated towel radiators In both bathroom and en suite but I put electric UFH in our en suite (both bathrooms have luxury vinyl floors which are not as cold as ceramic floor tiles) they are all on timers and are nice and warm to the feel/touch. Bedrooms have no heating (UFH Downstairs only) but super cold winter days are catered fir by small electric radiators (which have not been used yet).

Good on you for having a go, I did a job on a similar extension and it was like a bomb proof building, burnt out two Kango hammers demolishing a wall, (luckily I rented them) not saying yours will be that hard but be careful ?. If the lintel spans the building it should be ok but at the moment it is supported between the doors so not taking the whole weight. Might be a good idea to get a builder in “to give you a quote” and see what he says about it!.

Zoot, don’t waste your time, the glue will go off underwater, mine sat like a big puddle fir months (I was not convinced at the time) but my builder was right, it suffered not a jot.

Actually my mate (see above post) is sending the report to the seller (via agent) to try to get a reduction in the price, so might work to his advantage.

I endorse all that’s said above, our last house was badly insulated, condensation and boiler running all the time. Our new build of 240 sq meters (in an exposed location) has a 4kW air source heat pump that I installed myself and apart from DHW it has not come on once yet this year. (We do have a wood stove which we had lit for a couple of evenings recently, more fir the asthetics on a dark, wet evening) and our house temp is a steady 20-21 ‘. Last years running costs (house was still drying out) was at least half of the previous house and it was a semi, the new build is detatched, and with our planned going E7 hope to reduce it more.

It’s madness (IMO), a mate of mine wants to move and buy a 1950s bungalow, I went to view it with him (as his tame retired builder) and it had age related issues but nothing major, the surveyors report was pages and pages of “it might have this” or “it might have that”, pure scaremongering in my opinion. Reminds me when my parents passed away and we sold their house, luckily I had lived there for many years and later did much of the work on it, the buyers surveyor made some absurd assumptions about the work that had been done. I wrote a very terse letter to the buyers explaining I was a builder, the previous owners son and apart from explaining the things that were wrong, not to pay the surveyors fee, which they didn’t, they bought the place and were very pleased with it. (Rant over?).

Yup, mine was out in very wet weather fir months and did not suffer at all. The grey surface is great as any plaster spilt on it comes up and leaves a very clean floor, don’t take it up till after decorating etc.

I too have had problems with grease guns and was recommended a “Wanner grease gun”, bought one on Ebay, second hand for £7, works every time ?

What about asking your builder how HE is going to achieve building regs? Especially as this is by building notice, not full plans it’s the builder who should know? This is why I prefer full plans, no guessing half way through!.

Yes, with mechanical handling bales are much larger, small ones can still be sourced if you find the right farmer, also the “tension” can be adjusted (with the builds I was involved in the farmer was asked to make them as dense as possible to reduce the “give”).

Its worse than that, clutch won’t even work, and the master cylinder is full!!!, it may be the master that’s faulty but I plan to recon them both.

Nah, I spent it on the conservatory, Gentry won’t take much, started today working out how I can remove the clutch slave cylinder without dropping the engine out ?.