joe90

Sorry can’t concentrate on this, Nigella is on..........

I am still of the opinion that this is a “join” not a crack. Cracks don’t tend to be vertical and in a straight line with “block bonding” (blocks of three courses tying new to old walls). The bricks to the right of this “join” appear a slightly lighter colour and the courses tend not to line up till they get to the top of the join, which suddenly stops! And the brick courses then do line up!. Also the “join” suddenly stops at the bottom just below window cill level. Settlement cracks don’t do this IMO. do the deeds have any info on building work in the past?.

think of it as a skip (that you don’t have to pay fir!).

hence my tongue in cheek

because a neighbour said it was rendered 50 years ago and no cracks exist! from the photo it’s just old bricks, can’t see any cracks (that’s obvious in the photo) and as I said above it’s an extension join, block bonding (but not very well or enough fir modern standards).

what would?, my son bought a house last year, back bedroom you walk downhill across it but it’s not moved fir the last 50years. It put others off I am sure.

As yours are attic trusses, what do you propose to put in your loft?, are the designers aware of what you propose goes up there and worked the loading adequately? If it’s Christmas decorations and empty suitcases it won’t be a problem but 40 years worth of beano comics ?

@Onoff, just love those storage units (fir a garage!!!,!). You say you don’t use that shower anymore so why are you putting a new shower in?

They also have to dig the grout out and replace it every now and again. UGH!!!

NO, best thing I ever did was move away from tiles to wall panels. I HATE GROUT!!!. remove tiles, dead easy, get it skimmed and painted, job done. ?

A newly pointed building join (which is what that is) may cause raised eyebrows.

Yes, I would get a report (as long as it’s good) so you can fend off possible delays, some would walk away without a report (risk adverse).

But,

thats what @ProDave and I said. No they don’t (England anyway) This can also be a problematic area, planners told me half my garden plot was not within the curtilage of the house (we have a field next to us as well). When I asked them fir their evidence they said “google earth” well I laughed out loud. I then Told them I could get family members to write a statement that the area In Question has always been garden in the last 30+ years. They capitulated ?. So don’t be afraid to take them on.

Particle board is bad for blunting blades , I find de Walt or frued blades work quite well, they are more expensive but you get what you pay fir. Ebay often have price reductions on blades.

Question, why would a thermostat react more slowly than an overheat devise?. Easy test, multimeter across stat terminals, saucepan of water on cooker, slowly raise temp and confirms stat cuts out before overheat devise cuts out!

I agree, modern soft wood is nothing like the quality of old floorboards. I floored my sons dining room some time ago with reclaimed /resurfaced floorboards and apart from old nail holes they were really good.

for only £7 is it worth arsing around? ?‍♂️

yes but this one is not bouncing off the control stat, it’s tripping out the overheat devise!!!

In England you don’t need pp as you say this is the criteria down here but Scotland may be different. Councils will always tell you that pp is required!!!!

@Moggaman my builder sourced the wall ties so I do not know their cost, I went with stainless as the total area deemed a cold bridge with stainless was very small and IMO fairly insignificant and basalt are very expensive. PIR is only any good if no gaps are left, this usually means foaming it in place which would be difficult. Rockwall is a more natural material and not a petro chemical product which I try to avoid. Rockwall can be stuffed into odd voids during the build making it easier to use. As my build is very “cottage”, thick walls are “in character”.

Constantly interrupted by many comments on buildhub ?.

Frankly shooting past the 25’ and cutting out at 60’ sounds like the stat is kaput, how much are replacements?, is it not worth trying a new one?

That would have not worked fir me as my reveals are angled (trust me to be different!), I used this.....https://www.a1building.co.uk/shop/plasterboard-centre/drywall-beads/galvanised-thin-coat-stop-bead-560-3m/?gclid=CjwKCAiAtej9BRAvEiwA0UAWXkCWU5BLW2e5ZxMwcRns23PVQy0LVZYIKCYrj6F_ua3fxeYvTiVYJhoCTY8QAvD_BwE

This is exactly an issue I wish our plasterer had done what I wanted. I asked fir a stop bead at window/door junction but was assured it would not be required, I have several windows, mainly south facing , where the plaster/window junction has crazed/cracked. Several here experienced the same, @Jeremy Harris being one who also said he wished he had done this as he has had to fill/sand paint around several windows. I plastered my porch and used a stop bead and have had no issues there. Between the stop bead and window a flexible caulk can be used to absorb any movement and be over painted.