joe90

+1 for an ASHP, I have one and it works well. The only heat pumps that do not work properly are the badly designed ones . +1 to also concentrate on insulation and airtightness, you only do this once and benefit forever. Fuel of any sort costs money and will never go down in price.

https://www.moleonline.com/farming/timber-fencing?p=3 See if they have one near you!!

However…..from the above piece…. Since only female plants occur in Britain they are unable to reproduce sexually, but are available for pollination by any related species in the area. This they do very well, and most seed collected from F. japonica in Britain is the result of pollination by the related Russian Vine (Fallopia baldschuanica), to give Fallopia x conollyana. In locations where Japanese Knotweed grows close to male plants of Giant Knotweed or the hybrid F. x bohemica, enormous amounts of seed can be produced some years. ?

Eh, what crossbow bolt?, can’t this be spread through seeds blown in the air???

+1, I wire 5 amp round pin sockets around the lounge, bedroom back to a double light switch by the door, one to switch the main light on and one to power the sockets, great fir standard lamps, table lamps etc all controlled from the doorway but these lamps can be switched off at each location by the switch on the lamp itself if required.

We have some around me on verges etc, we take it in turns to spray it and it’s no worse.

I didn’t use them, losses through ordinary ties are minimal.

Or do the founds like I did…..

well that depends on your cavity size, windows and doors etc, not just that’s it’s B@B. I don’t know what my U value is but I built ours this way with 200mm cavity with rockwall batts . We have a small 5kW ASHP and the heating is rarely on. The only thing I would have done differently due to noise is ceiling sound insulation, I don’t have noisy kids but I am disappointed with noise transmission between floors, I wish I had used doubled boards and sound bars.

I would go with round posts, field gate posts, they last longer because square posts have the rings of the tree cut which leads to rot quicker.

I would imagine they would only come out to measure it if a neighbour wanted to “drop you in it”. They have not got enough staff to do their day job let alone checking on completion. My house is about 100mm higher than planned (cock up with roof measurements) but as it’s a hip roof they would find it difficult to measure it anyway ?

Plus self isolation afterwards ? I have an “antique” original scythe but the blade is so long it’s very difficult to control, the alpine ones have a much shorter blade. IMO much easier to use ?

I bought one of these and it works quite well (but I did replace the wing nut with a nylock one) the “Alpine’ shorter blade works better for rough ground attacking weeds etc rather than grasslands or crops. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alpine-Grass-Scythe-folding-Lightweight-1-5m-Long-Alloy-handle-150cm-quality-/265229372245?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=Cj0KCQjw_8mHBhClARIsABfFgpikyIv7LqgUqj6ieXHI33nWE23Geyd1qo5tTqi_7Ut3sMqGbZAjLJkaAqiKEALw_wcB

That is a brilliant idea, when I used to fit kitchens I used to advise against built in washing machines because there was no “wobble room”. My neighbours new kitchen was shaken to bits by his machine (I didn’t tell him “I told you so”).

C,mon @zoothorn you know you can, think of the stuff you have done before eh?. And felt proud. 1/ do you need to keep dogs out/in (therefore little gap underneath and fairly close boarded) 2/ you need to measure how slopey it is (using a spirit level giving difference in height across the gate entrance, gatepost to gate post) 3/ you need to measure the slope under the gates when they are open (same using spirit level and measuring height differences.) get this down on paper, CAD would be good (crayon assisted drawing ?) and post here then we will all come up with different solutions for you ?

Just read the regs and no max slope quoted, just minimum slopes (unable to cut and paste it for some reason?) why not challenge your BCO to quote the regs where it says max slope ? https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/442889/BR_PDF_AD_H_2015.pdf H1, page 16 table 6.

Come on @harry_angel, don’t hold back, speak your mind ?. Yes I agree with you, and at the risk of repeating myself (cus it does my blood pressure good) I won at appeal and they told the LPA they were not abiding by their own policies, but as you say, no penalty on them. (Apart from knowing I won and built my house as I wanted).

My planners wanted professional arb. Statement. I rang the councils Arb. Guy and said I proposed sheep fencing and he agreed it would suffice, when I submitted my own proposal using sheep fencing I included “their” arb. Guys Email. No argument (and saved me a fee ?).

As long as you can get any water away from the stone/drain.

I have a leaky tap (swivel head) and found the “o” ring split so replaced it with one from the garage. However, the “O” rings grabs making the tap stiff. Tried Vaseline to no effect. Are these “O” rings different (white) to the black ones used on mechanics?

It used to be said that too steep a gradient could lead to fluids flowing fast and leaving solids behind, but I think this has been re assessed hence it is now not of concern.

We have a very high water table and we back filled the foundation trench against the block wall of both the house and garage with 50mm drainage stone and lain a pipe out from it into a road drainage ditch, never had a problem since. I consulted a field drainage guy as our field needs drainage and he says fir my location (heavy clay, used to be a moor), perforated pipe and membranes all clog with silt/clay so they only used drainage stone in a trench with a plastic sheet above to stop top soil washing down into the trench.(it’s on my “to do” list).

When I was sorting my levels (almost flat land but needed to know any fall for the drains etc) I used an indoor laser at night on a tripod 1 meter above ground level, wore goggles and a pole with a tape nailed to it, and was able to look into the beam at 50m and measure how far above/below the 1 meter mark the beam was on my pole!!,!

i worded my reply badly, I meant that if his drains are currently combined that would be why rain water was directed at mains drains. I just looked it up and combined drains are still allowed if no alternative Is available (towns/cities/small plots I guess).

Depends if you have “combined drains” which means surface water and sewerage go to the same place (the reason council treatment plants overflow in heavy rain) but yes a soakaway would be much better and frankly should be mandated on some builds/renovation IMO.