joe90

It’s the woodland bit that bothers me, roots can (will) cause ground shift!!!!

I have a window I could point it out of 🤷‍♂️, advantage of a PIR is they come with night/day sensor .

Well this is more like it. https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-c-36/movement-detectors-c-36_116/all-c-36_116_37/honeywell-pir-long-range-motion-sensor-30m-p-4902.html

Being a Luddite I had to google “Shelly”, wifi does not extend that far either. I don’t understand how 2 PIR,s can extend the range (length) 🤔 surely someone must make a simple longer range PIR fir a resonance price?

Due to local concerns about thefts in our area I want to put a floodlight on my workshop which is nearest the gate, it is however 15m away. Screwfix give their PIR range as 10m but I cannot find any info on other suppliers with a greater range. Anyone out there in builders land come across one that will do?

Sorry misread, I thought it was a new build 🤯

Dead easy to create a “false” window or former for the brickies to build around in timber, just make sure the dimensions are accurate.

My founds were 700mm on clay, specified by the BCO, digger driver used 600mm bucket but scraped it wider . 450 is just the minimum!

Sounds good but how do you upgrade something that did not exist?

Really? I agree with retaining wildlife habitat etc but when in the wild did bats have heaters 🤷‍♂️.

I think it depends on the bat survey people, I built 3 bat boxes into my garage roof rather than the house roof after approval from them, but the council still wanted bat boxes in the house but when I went to planning appeal the council were told they were not qualified to overturn the professional advise I received regarding bat roosts.

I would leave out the timber as this will rot leading to sinkage but anything else (non contaminating).

Fill it with crap from the build, cheaper than a skip 🤷‍♂️

The lowest tiles need removing to fit the guard, I would tell the roofer it’s not fit for purpose and he needs to rectify it, have you paid yet?

It appears to be a cold roof so ventilation is required but a gap like that will let birds etc in, IMO their should be a bird guard in there https://www.screwfix.com/p/eaves-comb-filler-1000mm-20-pack/40157

+1

Hi and welcome Chris, firstly there is a big divide here on wood stoves, some here have one (like me) and others are vehemently against burning anything 🤷‍♂️. All I can say is my wood stove (non boiler) is for chilly winter evenings, looks good and as yet never overheated my near passive build. I have not installed PV yet but plan to. Being off grid is far more challenging and others here will chip in soon. Yes ASHP rather than GSHP IMO. Do post up photos and remember there is no such thing as a stupid question, stupid is not asking. The advise here is born from actually doing it, not sales talk. Looking forward to more info and progress 👍

I did mine in XPS (similar to this) and I am on clay.

Fair question I suppose, but the stress on the fixings will be shear, in other words vertically down, the pressure on the spacers will depend on the tightness of the nuts only! Perhaps a thick walled tube as the spacer would suffice!, gentlemen, comment!

I have a dog and use gl 360 occasionally and just keep her indoors for 24 hours.

My painter does UPVC to look like wood with a special paint, yes I know it sounds crap but he showed me a sample and it looks really good even close up, grain and all.

Like you I am not a landscaper but I don’t think a whacker is man enough for a vehicle parking space, I used a diesel vibrating roller on top of scalpings and my drive has not moved at all. It all depends on the soil below the scalpings, it really should have been dug out to something that had not been disturbed before, sub soil. Not sure of the cure but someone else will be along in a mo.

I would never go back to cement ridge fixing, dry all the way…..

Well Zoot if you go in 30mm, even if it’s into the block a little it won’t hurt.

Whatever tools necessary, I would use a router.