joe90

Actually I remember having difficulty lining my pull out bin door with the rest (and I have been fitting kitchens for years 🤷‍♂️.)

The door on the left is a bit high in my opinion, leaves very little clearance to the worktop!!! What height are the rest?

Fall might be an issue, lift the manholes in the road and measure depth and compare it to your drain depth, then a cctv inspection should tell you where the spur is to dig down to it.

My builder did this as I wanted it to look like lime, and it does, just what I wanted.

Great minds think alike!!! I did exactly that and it worked well. 👍

I also think wait and see how you get on, don’t rush to do anything, another “out of the box” idea is hinge the breakfast bar from the wall so normally its down but raise it occasionally for extra worktop (when there is only one of you in the kitchen) 🤷‍♂️

I would be looking on the planning portal at their applications to see what was accepted, if not much different from yours then go to appeal, I went to appeal and found it easier than dealing with planners and I did it myself and there is NO FEE!!. p.s. do your neighbours HAVE permitted development rights and why were yours not granted.

What do you mean by “gone up”, do you believe they have built Beyond that allowed, if so “precedence” may apply in your favour 🤔 in a previous house we applied to extend and a covenant on the houses around us stipulated no development/extensions but because others had done so the covenant was deemed void because of precedence.

Well I am an ASHP with DHW at 48’ tank fan, it’s only 5kW and my tank does not loose any heat as it’s within the well insulated house, during the summer it slightly warms the airing cupboard. I have not yet found that hot water is cooled by drawing cold as the tank stratifies adequately. When I installed this lot Sunamps we’re very new and the original versions had problems (see Jeremy’s blog). I am sure they are better now with version 3 or 4 but it was a risk too far for me back then.

Well my thought was if cleaning coal was not affordable maybe now with rising oil/gas prices it may be! If that is true then gov needs to turn the tables.

I agree wholeheartedly with @ProDave above. I just had an “out of the box” thought, if we have enough coal for 300 years can we not use it cleanly? 🤷‍♂️, I believe solar and wind is a must fir the future but fir the dark windless times we need a backup (and I am not a fan of nuclear), just found this , clean coal??. https://world-nuclear.org/information-library/energy-and-the-environment/clean-coal-technologies.aspx

Most of @pocster,s house is a basement.

Or you get fed up with the noise 🤷‍♂️

Try this. https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-grout-rake-2-50mm-/428PG?kpid=428PG&ds_kid=92700055262507126&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7KqZBhCBARIsAI-fTKIaIzsIJ_nNIYaFkAqEo1lOLNL_yapboPAHHRWLs4gI7zhSP1jgHlYaAvXTEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

If it were me I would connect it to a fused spur outside the room, but @ProDave will know 👍

My “plant room” is in my downstairs cloakroom and divided by double doors that look like cupboard doors, plenty of access and internal so no cold bridges and access to everything . p.S. the washing machine is in there as well 👍

I too have a Telford cylinder and the losses are minimal, Sunamp is too new a technology for me and expensive. Also the losses are not losses in the winter as they stay within the house 🤷‍♂️

No definitely not I am afraid.

I hate blue/ultra white lights, I much prefer dimmed/yellowy lighting with the exception of work lights to do tasks.

Hi, depends if you envisage changing the doors in the future?, I agree tall ceilings taller doors would look more in keeping, me, I like standard stuff just in case 🤷‍♂️.

Oak planks front and back and slab insulation between all in an oak surround.

On my build I had an oak front door made, thicker than normal with insulation inside. Door frame with compression seals all round, very draught proof and thermally efficient. Wood is quite a good insulator.

I agree with @Nickfromwales comments above, I have electric UFH in bathrooms with LVT so warm feet etc. 3 external walls, Un heated porch underneath??? I would go with oil filled rad or panel heater switched on as required.

Because you know what your doing and doing it right and we are all grateful for the knowledge you share here 👍

Hi and welcome, well I can’t comment on your particular build but I have been thwarted by planners and gone to appeal myself and found the process with the appeal easier than dealing with planers,!! Bulk was a refusal point for us but I demonstrated that I reduced bulk by not having gable ends to the roof and in our case proved the building next door was bigger than indicated. You need to read and understand the planning policies and use them to your advantage. Keep us updated.