Russell griffiths

I looked into this back in 2018 ish. I didn’t think they had a very good insulation value and you needed to add more. is this still the case.

Show us a pic of the banister area.

I’ve bought all sorts of crap over the years, but that one would worry me slightly to the point of putting things on hold for a minute. That needs more investigation.

With a raised floor just be aware of rodents i would want a solid base beneath the insulation either plywood or cement sheet. just not a membrane then insulation, it will make the nicest rodent house going.

Just flicked through this, so just a quick point I have. in a house that size I would think you need a dedicated plant room, fitting one unit in a laundry it will take up a huge amount of space, fitting two units will be an insane amount of pipework and manifolds. I’ve been on a few jobs these last few years and it never ceases to amaze me how much room we need to allow for the MVHR. the silencers are chunky things, then put them on some 180mm pipe work and it all gets very space consuming.

Did you have a look at the mcalpine catalog. loads of variations in there.

Is that Glasrok H or something like that.

I started another question on this but didn’t explain properly, I’ve asked that it be deleted. wet room/ shower room im looking for a board that can be tiled over in a wet room environment, but also 2/3 rds of the room will be painted, is there a board I can use as a tile backer, but then skim it for painting in the rest of the room. it would be nice to board it without have to swap boards as I exit the shower area. what’s your go to board on site @nod cheers.

@ProDave morning I’ve not really explained myself in this post, can you delete it and I will do another with a better explanation. cheers.

What’s everyone thoughts on boards for walls in a shower / bathroom. a third of the room will be a walk in shower, then the rest plastered and painted. I would like a good modern solution for the shower area, then be able to skim the remaining walls ready to paint. cheers.

Stay friendly with the neighbours who will ever know. be carful cutting back bushes, look out for nesting birds. the easiest way to piss someone off is to have a bonfire stick to this and I’m sure you will be fine

It is annoying, but set your main run through as the lowest run and side branches will step up from that. I know that doesn’t help if your trying to design something and need measurements now.

Er, funnel bigger newer machines have their own pump, put it in the drum and turn the switch on.

I always think of these things from the finished article backwards. what is your wall finish, will you end up with a slither of tile in that corner or are you hoping the tile from the other wall floats into the niche, I personally think further from the corner would look better.

What’s to stop you dropping the 100mm insulation between the top chords of the posi’s then putting 100mm over the top foam the bottom 100mm to the pos’s then a bit of further details from below, foam all gaps to the walls with illbruck foam, not the cheap nasty open cell stuff.

This is not the same situation. new build, not a 1930’s semi that needs the airflow through the roof space.

What do you mean by the dry type will take a lot longer. wet self leveling stuff they will be done in 2-3 hours, dry traditional they will be done in one day. hardly much longer. drying time will be longer, with traditional you will need to stay off it for a couple of days if it had an inhibitor in it when laid.

What don’t you like, I’ve recently been on a job where it’s been used in a flat roof situation condensation risk done, no problem whatsoever.

I do not lend anything or borrow anything.

Have you considered closed cell spray foam sprayed to the underside of the osb, whithin the webs of the posi joist 50mm pir on top of joist and 150 spray foam inbetween. very little height build up then. your box gutter shape needs changing to vertical sides, with no horizontal epdm stuck under that parapet.

As John said. Unless a habitable room above then no fire protection needed. the timber however would need a treatment to stop the spread of flame. so a treatment so a fire will not roll across the ceiling and spread to another area.

You can’t ask this question here and get an answer that will fit you. there are people doing a bit of painting and saying they built their own house, then there’s people actually on the roof fitting all the slates, then there’s people doing everything from foundations to the roof. you can build whatever you want, your budget is easily achievable, but don’t think it will happen quickly, you will need to do loads yourself. building a kitchen is not loads and will save you ten grand. doing a bit of painting will save you a couple. you will need to be very much hands on to achieve what you want.

Go cheaper and spend a couple of grand on the shed. but don’t be thinking 8 foot by 6 foot. a proper building. looking at another shed I have on site it needs to be a minimum 3m x 4m

We have an additional shed 4x6m washing machine in it, fridge freezer, kettle and microwave for my lunch so I don’t go indoors covered in muck, small fridge and toaster, we also have an outdoor toilet. I leave our cabin at 8 in the morning and don’t need to go back into it all day, so muck stays out and cabin is a nice place to live in. water and electric you can run anywhere, poo pipe will need thinking about a bit more. make this comfortable with a little patio and chairs outside, I bet you any money you want you will be living in it longer than you think.

Larry’s videos are all pre cls just 2baaa4 and 2baaaaa6 😉