Russell griffiths

Stick to 400 spacing everywhere

Two concrete lintels.

Use the two part one, comes with its own liquid additive use any tilers primer, follow the instructions on the primer.

Stick the bricks together with epoxy, the stuff you fix threaded rod in a hole with, just a blob needed like no nails.

It needs to be accessed for maintenance, they do fail.

Winner winner chicken dinner

Timber prop across the gap, spread some muck on it, pull the prop out when you have built another course on.

You can get a leveling compound that is designed as the finished floor, you want this, not all self levelling compounds are designed to be walked on for a prolonged time.

If your putting a counter batten on your going to be punching dozens of holes in the membrane the staples are only to hold it in place while you fit the counter batten. you can get a butyl tape that fits on the back of the counter batten to seal any penetrations. I’ve never seen anyone use it.

Panels of what.

I would take out my own to cover the entire build, I’m sure his won’t cover certain things. he takes a week off and locks the site securely, with proof, junkies come in and burn it down, would you not need to provide proof he was at fault in some way for his insurance to pay out ??? I would not want the risk £1500 to insure everything you have in the project, i would pay it.

First fix it all in one go. two electricians will first fix the entire house in a week the same for the plumber, use a manifold system for the plumbing and he can keep individual rooms shut off, and bring them on line one room at a time. if you do some labouring it will help them out.

Before you fit the board, run a fat bead of some sort of air tight caulk along it, then tape over the join afterwards. belt and braces.

My neighbours have built a large sauna on metal skids, just like a pair of ski’s he can then drag it to different locations with a large mower/ small tractor.

You will need to insulate the pipes well to prevent the heat escaping into the cavity. I would core out a large hole and run the pipes inside insulation, inside a rigid plastic duct, seal the dpm with a mixture of tape and liquid dpm.

Morning. need some pipework run to gas up a cooker hob, it will run from 2 LPG cylinders outside, it’s only for the hob. what sort of paperwork should I be looking to get from the installer. cheers.

Use a high build floor leveling compound.

Nobody has answered so I will chuck something in. any retaking structure like you have there will move and settle resulting in grout cracks. you would have needed it to be built to a huge over specification to say I want no movement. im afraid I think the design is flawed, and fixing such a ridgid thing as tiles to the face and tops of a wall and steps, somewhere along the line something will move, resulting in displaced grout, or a loose tile. I think the design is too rigid looking and needed some movement joints incorporated somewhere. either gravel strips at the junctions of walls and paving, or movement joints at internal corners. I think your design will not fair well in the long term.

My neighbours have a system that moves around to track the sun, far more efficient I believe.

I would like to see a bit taken from the Australian planning system we had two applications approved in Australia, one an extension and the other a new build. both had planning passed the same day I took the application to the council your development has to fit in with certain criteria laid out by your local governing body. take your application in, if it fits in the criteria then it passes, simple. if you design something outside of the criteria then it has to go before a planning officer to be assessed and dismissed or passed. this bit can cost loads and take a good while. it frees up planning office to deal with a minimum of applicants.

You shouldn’t run a cable behind the skirting. it is not a safe zone, all electrical wires need to be in the safe zones as set out in the electrical regs.

I’ve been looking at this recently it looked like the cheaper end had 25mm panels and the dear ones 40mm panels. look for one with a threshold that has an upstand that the door closes down to with rubber sealing strip. I thought the u value quoted was pointless as the weakest area would be air leakage around the seals.

It sounds like your talking to SE without having one come to site. pay for a 2 hour site meeting, get the plasterboard all ripped out upstairs so you can see what’s going on. it will all become clear very quickly.

I tiled first and door linings sat down on top. I would cut the bottom of the lining with a multi tool sat on top of a tile to get the correct height then slide the tile under. look so much better.