Russell griffiths

Call up a cable company like Cleveland cables, tell them the distance, tell them you have 100amp supply, they will give you a size of cable depending on the distance covered and the voltage drop. over 20m it won’t be anything special. Mine comes 120m from the meter to the consumer unit.

Perfect for hiding bodies 😉

They will want 100’s of cubic meters to be worth the trouble, I used to sell mine to a couple of different power station suppliers.

As Simon said, that looks like the wrong bead. don’t confuse plater beads with dry wall beads. you will hate me but I have literally just cut up £4-500 worth of drywall beads as I was fed up with tripping over them. I didn’t think anybody would buy them so they are waiting to go in the bin. if you are thinking of jointing your house yourself i would seriously reconsider this. I was going to do mine but stopped and had it skimmed, I have previously jointed a whole house with another two guys with all the proper tools. stupidest idea I’ve had.

Get some wooden pegs. peg out house location, peg out patios and driveway. peg out heights of all these finished areas, dig out the top soil and use all that concrete as a sub base below the drive way. the topsoil you skim off where the drive is going you can put where the concrete came from to turn back into garden. it’s all about planning. tree waste just burn it. or you will need a roll off skip, nobody will chip it if you moved it with a digger as it will now be dirty, if you stacked it neat and tidy then hire a chipper and chuck it through, only good for clean branches though not grass or shrub mess. my sites 20 times bigger than yours and I haven’t had to remove anything from site apart from two loads of muck that came out when we did the treatment plant as it was horrid clay stuff, and a load of concrete that was over 450mm thick that just didn’t fit in any holes.

My view based on a friend who owns a fair few buildings like yours that he rents out. offices, you can build these to a very high standard inside the main building envelope, so easy to heat. I would fit air conditioning units in here so you can cool in the summer and heat in the winter. fit Solar to offset the cost of running the air conditioner in the summer. the warehouse space is a different ball game, forget the u values of those sheets, unless you build this meticulously it will still be a draughty warehouse, you will struggle to get any form of sensible amount of heat in it without it escaping out of every roller door, or roof to wall junction, the floor is one huge cold spot sucking any warmth from the building. either an oil or gas hot air blower system is the only thing I know that will heat that amount of volume. or a big biomass boiler and thermal store.

Go for the best, don’t skimp on the main structure of the house. better of forgetting the expensive toilets and build the structure better.

Poor stud work, out of alignment so boards bending to compensate. wet studs drying out poor boarding, not cutting around doors just butting up. boards not falling on studs correctly not enough screws. the list goes on and on. I boarded mine, to the letter, it couldn’t have been done any better, I have minimal cracking. but I definitely have a few in places that i really thought wouldn’t have, it’s a bit of a bastard really. it just depends if you have a few or a lot.

Pictures needed. are you adding new floor level, or is it all ground floor.

I’ve fitted 18mm osb then fermacel on the walls in my plant room. know as it’s being fitted out I’m finding I’m still unhappy fixing into this lot with heavy expansion vessels, so I’m using hollow wall toggle fixings that will drill through both sheets and then open out in the stud wall cavity, I can actually hang from the brackets I’ve put up with just two fixings in.

I’ve had 4 plasterers on my house. 3 of them did a day and I’ve never had them back the fourth lad is the best I’ve ever come across, different gravy. I think you have had a shit one, if you know roughly what you are expecting then you needed to be there. mines from Coventry and travels about an hour if that’s any good to you.

Pictures needed.

£4000 per shower room £5000 for the shower/ bathroom, excluding tiles.

Why double glazed doors as opposed to triple, weight shouldn’t be a reason to discount a product. My triple glazed sliders were 400kg plus, I’m very glad I didn’t pick double glazed in stead.

Not needed, just mix up a small amount of the tile adhesive and pre fill over the screw washer dents just to bring them up flush.

Don’t even think of using the old crap. go and buy a full arm with valve and all parts new, will take longer to drive to the shop than to fit it, messing with old scaled up crap will only mean you end up doing the job again in a years time when another bit of it scales up.

Is that an accessible area, can you always get to it ? would you like to put a rodding point there for future blockages or just patch up what’s there.

Are you plastering it or just jointing compound on the joints. I’ve just had some jackoboard plastered and we fully meshed the entire board, like you would when thin coat rendering. it was a lighter gauge fibreglass mesh, came in 1m wide rolls.

Run the horizontal batten the full way around the house, not just little bits, you can add a batten front to back as well.

Do you have an emersion in a tank that is overheating, thermostat could be gone and sending water up the expansion pipe. check the level of the overflow pipe and fit a second one if needs be.

Why can you not draw up some pictures of everything you want to do, window, wall insulation, roof insulation, blah blah. put in an application for bc approval with all inspections, £4-500. as far as I’m aware there is no time limit to the work, so put the windows in and get them checked and signed off, then two years time rip all the floors up, get them inspected and signed off. all under one building regs application. or am I missing something.

far easier to find you a pick than try and explain.

Our water is so hard you get a scuddy line in the toilet bowl.

No they do a sort of re jig, blast themselves out, it can be noisy and can also deplete water pressure im told. im not worried about noise, so I want to be able to alter the time it does it.