Russell griffiths

Vastern have a nice showroom if you haven’t been yet.

I personally think it’s better if the surrounding houses are all a bit different, there’s nothing really you need to fit in with. I had this, the local housing stock was a complete abortion of 1980’s fake Cotswold stone, there was no way they could say they wanted me to match in with a load of houses that shouldn’t have been built like they were.

No they are not removal men, i would want empty rooms, and even carpet pulled back.

Do you actually want to build design two. you might like the concept on paper, but I would avoid that roof design 100%, water needs to get of the building, don’t trap it on top and hope it makes it out of some small outlets. I like option one apart from the glass gable, that is pointless, you have large windows on two elevations already, what’s the glass gable for. design one is a more straightforward build, easier to find good contractors. obviously my personal opinion. one would fit in better locally, easier to build, no sleepless nights worrying about a swimming pool on your roof.

If you have cattle i bet you have a slurry pit, I bet you also have a slurry tanker, I bet you also have an old tank of some sort knocking around, old oil tank or plastic 5000 ltr water tank. dig a hole, put the old tank in the hole, connect caravan to this tank, pump it out when it’s full and empty into slurry pit. winner winner chicken dinner.

Do you have livestock on the farm or just arable. if you have livestock then there’s your answer.

Is that the system that used to be called polar wall

He said cladding was 11 kg a metre, add in 3m of roof batten. call it 15-18kg all in, divide by 9 fixings. under 2kg per fixing.

If you think about it each screw only has about 2-3 kg hanging from it.

Look at the manufacture details, you only need to find one plastic Webb, the others will be spaced the exact distance apart that the factory made them. they haven’t moved, some icf have vertical webbs and some have horizontal. find one and it’s just a bit of measuring to find the rest.

I agree it’s a bit of a bodge but it’s because it’s been poorly planned. The waste coming up should have been closer to the access panel end so he could reach in and make the connection.

Is that a drop on sink in that he can’t get behind there when the sink is in position, if that’s the case he’s going to struggle to get in there, isn’t he.

Are you sure you want it level with the top. wouldn’t you drop the bath into a pre built surround so the bath sits above the tiles. regarding the foam board it will be very sturdy once tiled. close your timber spacing up to 200mm and it will be solid.

Do you know about profiles for your blockwork ends/ corners. if your 1st floor is in it’s easy to make some 4x2 upright at the exact location of the wall ends, simple screw into some scrap timber and plumb up and fix to the floor joists. you can then mark your blockwork gauge or height on this timber and slide your string line up a course as you go.

If you think it could only have a 50 year life span, should you look at the cheaper options to build it rather than a structure that would be there in 100 years. you could go steel frame with timber infill panels, sitting on piles for each steel stancion look at the Australian view of house building. we tend to overthink things over here. .

What’s an FF

Ooh you got a jenson.

Don’t forget your height choices standard uk doors are 1981 European doors can be 2040.

You need to work out what you want. as a minimum I would go. 838mm doors 30mm lining 2mm hinge gap 5-8mm packing. so 838 + 60 4 10 rough opening minimum 912mm.

Rough opening for doors is too tight, you need to leave room to pack the lining and get it squared up. just think you can make a wall as soundproof as you want, but as soon as you put a door in it it becomes pointless.

Nope they are all just a sticky grey stuff.

Do not re fill with mortar it will crack and become loose. pull out all the old sealant and clean the gap out, re-seal with lead sealant. in a perfect world the render should have a bell cast drip above that sealant, but you probably don’t want to be hacking that off.

Plenty done with tyres already.

Depends what you want them for, we use them as strainer posts on wire fencing. but you cannot use them near a watercourse, it’s the coal tar treatment they are soaked in. I would not use them to build raised garden beds or a garden pond or anything kids climb on, but banging it in the ground in the corner of a field, you won’t get hanged for it.

I don’t know your model, but some heat pumps have different demands even if the same kw, mine has 3 power cables going to it, a 4mm and 2 x 2.5mm, then 2x cat 6 shielded. look up exactly what feeds you need, but then what happens if you change to a different heat pump. use the insulated pipe for the water and run a couple of 40mm ducts for power and comms.